I am using Old Masters Gel polyurethane. I have tried wiping around the perimeter of the shaker panel first and then back and forth across the centre, as well as the opposite order and I always end up with stop/start marks.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Sheryl, got a picture of that? It might help to see what you have so we can give a better answer.

 

They only thing that pops out right off, is you have to keep a wet edge and you are wiping. Are you wiping over the area several times??

 

Just trying to figure out what it looks like?

 

 

The gel polyurethane is alot thicker and "sets" a little quicker than the regular wipe on poly.  Minwax has gel stain poly that can actually cover beige paint and make it turn cherry stain color after 2-3 coats.

 

Wipe on poly will be absorbed at different rates depending on if you are doing end grain or face grain.  And if your using gel poly the difference in the end grain and the face grain absorption can be dramatic as night and day.

 

Buff out the surface with a scotchbrite pad and hit it again but this time try to hit it evenly and cover the whole surface when wet then leave it alone and don't go back over it again.

 

I personally use Waterlox for a wipe on finish (it's non gel) and I go over the whole surface to wet it, then maybe go over the surfaces that have absorbed the waterlox faster.  Keep in mind, it's all got to be wet and you basically have 1 shot because you don't want to keep reapplying it cause it will goop up and ruin it so you have to start over.

 

Take a couple of pics from different angles so we can see what it looks like and then buff it out and hit it again.

 

By the way, is your start really wet and the stop really dry?

 

 

Sheryl

I tend to agree with John. Maintaining a wet edge is very important and makes blending things a lot easier. It also depends on the type pf wood you are using. Some wood is more pourous and tends to drink stain and poly at different rates. Gel stain and gel poly do cure at a faster rate so there are times you may want to use a wood conditioner before applying anything be it stain or poly. A nice clear photo would be very helpful but in general it comes down to two major things. The type of wood and the application. Depending on the depth of the overlap marks, you may be able to sand them out with 400 or 600 and re-apply. Best of luck.

Wayne

You should also use a tack rag to remove dust and lint. 

 What are you using to wipe with? 

Looks like your rag may have lint in it so try to use a lint free rag.

Sheryl

Now that I see the photos. I think you should be okay with some light sanding and re-applying the poly. Like I said in my welcome message. You should find some great information and helpful tips along the way. Please use the forums not only for getting advice but providing some. Your work looks great. Please provide finished photos I am greatly interested imn seeing them.

Best of Luck

Wayne

 

After a gel varnish is applied, it must be followed by lightly or brisk buffing (see manufactures tech data sheet) with a clean rag, this levels the finish. If you don't your finish will have rag marks such as those seen in your picture.Work fast, don't let the gel set up. Get it on and lightly buff it the direction of your grain.

 

Gel Varnish is a thin film finish. Block sand with some 600 paper, just make sure the finish is good and dry. Try to get your finish as level as possible without cutting through to your color. Easy does it. Re-apply a few more coats. You should be good.

 

http://www.oldmastrs.com/products/interiorclears.html#Anchor-11481' target="_blank">

Sheryl, Thanks for posting the pictures, it really helps to see the problem and to offer better advise. These guys have about covered it. Watch the areas where the joints are and make sure you stay with the grain. Don't let those overlap in the wrong direction because the marks will show if you don't get it buffed down.

 

Also watch going into the corners. Put some on the applicator and pull it out from the corner and then leave it. Don't keep going back into the corner or you will get a build up in the corner.

 

Give us an update when you put on the next application.

A closed lid metal can with some water in it .

Sheryl Yakowchuk said:

I finally got a chance today to get back to work on the door. I took all of your suggestions into consideration and it looks really good! Not perfect, but I think that will come as I develop my finesse for this project. Thank you all so much.

I will need at least two more coats (I will have more time this week to work on it), I will post some pictures when I am done with this door; three more to go after that.

I have been laying out the used rags in a corner of the garage until they dry out, and then I toss them. Does anyone have a better solution?

 

Sheryl

Leave rags hanging on edge of metal trashcan OUTSIDE the house.

While the stuff in the shampoo, Sodium Laurate sulfate,  may be great for cleaning but not so good for butcher block.  It can build up on the wood surface and it is not good in concentrations.

 

Sorry.

 

Dawn grease cutting detergent is a better choice

Hi Sheryl

My suggestion is to pre fininsh panels  and rails and stiles before assembly, let it dry well an glue up. Of couse you want to keep the finish off of all areas to be glued. after assembly add one more coat to the rails and stiles

 

Jim