and.....some pictures too!   Table is assembled, now it's the Boss's turn with the contact paper, and the paint brush.    I'm NOT doing a table in fancy woods, only to see paint and paper cover it up.   Anyway, here goes with the picturesThat blue Blob is just the grand-Brat going by, camera hog!  This is the back view of the table.Front view ( no grand-brat) that "step" will be covered with molding.Another view of the back.   Not bad for $28 worth of pine and screws?   Top and the bottom shelf are glued up panels from Menards, saved a bit of time.    Too bleeding cold to do any glue-ups in the shop right now.     Still needs a good overall sanding ( to get ready for the paint) and that molding in front.    It even sit level on the floor!

  Top is 36" long, by 16" wide.    Legs are 34" tall.    Spindles are 3/4" thick, by 1" wide.    A 45 degree bevel at each end of the spindle.   Bottom shelf WAS 36" long, until I cut it to fit in the base.    Shelf is 12" wide.   Aprons are 3/4" by 3' wide.   I tried to space the spindles out to get the most out of just a few pieces.   Now, someday, maybe one out of Oak?    Or, maybe just the top in Oak, and the rest in painted Poplar?   

Very nice Steve. You are the man!

 

 

Hey Steve,

Looks good my friend and it should last a while. The next one you build try bread board ends on it and you will find that the boards in the top will be less apt to do things on you. Like cupping or something else.

If you ever build a table that does not set level or wobble all over the place, here is a tip that may help out.

Find three legs that are setting on the floor while the fourth leg is in the air or space below it. Find a small board that will just fit under that leg and then place that piece of wood next to the other three legs and mark them all the way around and cut to that line and then all four legs will set equal.

 

Ralph

 When I fasten a top to a table, I use corner blocks.    I drill a slotted hole through the blocks, and attach a screw to the top.   I also add a washer to the screw, to allow the wood to move back and forth.  I use bugle headed screws, and with the washer, this allows the screw to move a bit.    Top is free to expand, or contract as it wants to.     The screw blocks are just lengths of scrap, with a 45 at each end.    I screw these to the aprons, just below the top of the apron's top edge.  I can draw the top down tight that way, and yet the top can move a bit.  Legs are always "ganged" up and cut to the same length in one cut.  As long as the top of the apron matches the top of the legs, everything comes out level. 

 

Sometimes, on wider tops, I add a center stretcher.  Dovetailed into the front and back aprons.    A single screw is placed in the center of the stretcher, to fix the center of the top in place.   All movement will then move away from, or into the center-line of the talbe.  This  screw just gets a regular, non-slotted pilot hole.  Just my little ways of doing things.