February 22, 201115 yr Back in September/October I was posting picture of the progress of my Blood-Wood kitchen. I had gotten to the point that the only thing left was to make the drawers and drawer fronts. Since then I been taking life easy and working on some other small projects. Since spring is only a couple months away I (and my wife) thought it was about time I get busy on the drawer and fronts. I got started on them yesterday and took a few photos of the progress.  After much thought and checking on available of materials I finally decided to go with 1/2 Baltic Birch for the drawer sides and 1/4 Baltic Birch for the drawer bottoms.  For joinery I decided on a locking rabbit joint. First step was to cut all the parts. After cutting all the part it's time to start on the locking rabbit. The first step to set up my shaper to cut the tongue that goes into the dado. This can be done on the table saw with a dado blade but I can get a more consistence tongue thickness on the shaper. When done on the shaper the material is cut away from the top of the stock as opposed to the dado blade cutting from the bottom so the tongue is always the same thickness no matter the thickness variations in the stock.    After the tongues are made I set up the table saw and cut the matching dados. I do this with a saw blade and two passes because my dado is less that 1/4 inch in width. Lastly I make the dados for the drawer bottoms Now I do a dry fit to make sure everything fits. Now a word about drawer bottoms. Just my opinion of course. I see a lot of debate on the forums about drawer bottom thickness. A lot of woodworkers don't think 1/4 inch bottoms are thick enough for kitchen drawers especially larger drawer for pots and pans. I'm for the camp that says 1/4 is fine of all kitchen drawers. In the picture below the drawer is 22'' deep and real close to 48'' long. I ask my wife to come out to the shop and help decide if she thought my pot and pan drawer were strong enough. My wife weighs 120 lbs and I had her stand in the middle of the drawer. With her stand in the middle of the drawer I measured and 1/4 '' deflection at her feet.  I rest my case, you'll have to make up your own mind. Tomorrow I'll do the sanding and start assembling the drawers.  Thanks of looking.   Â
February 22, 201115 yr The only change I would make for the large drawer would be a center support under the drawer bottom in the large pot and pan drawer. You would be surprised of how much a 1/4 or 1/2 inch support will have in a drawer of this size. Naturally you will glue it in place. Having the tools that you have is truly a nice addition to any shop and I envy you.
February 22, 201115 yr Great Rich! That was a wonderful photo essay of this project. I'm from the same camp as you Rich, 1/4" is sufficient and fine. Nice pics too and your getting to be quite the video dude Rich.
February 22, 201115 yr Very Nice Rich!! Great photo layout of making drawers. That video makes it look way too easy. You didn't push or even strain. Â I like the 1/4" bottoms also. Â Â
February 22, 201115 yr on your rabbit with the powerfeeder , did you use a support under the cutterhead ? (a continuous fence ) ?
February 22, 201115 yr Author  It's a continuous fence.  rob durfos said: on your rabbit with the powerfeeder , did you use a support under the cutterhead ? (a continuous fence ) ?
February 22, 201115 yr Very nice Rich! Are you making anymore? Would love to come and watch and learn again !
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