ok guys, I'm gonna pick your brains for a change.

 

I've got 7 beams, Circa 1800, White Oak or Chestnut (so old I can't tell)

 

They are hand hewn (still have the Adze marks to prove it).

 

These things are not rotten but they are in bad shape, and I mean cracked split, holes, bug marks, knots, branches, old spike holes and every other Woodworkers nightmare you can imagine.

 

I love them.  They are OOZING with character BIG time!!

 

I'm gonna make an Apothacary chest (modified) with drawers ( 2 sizes) and doors.

 

These beams will be cut 4/4and milled to 3/4 and then used for the outside case.  Interior construction will be plywood (for integrity) and chestnut faceframe and doors and drawers.

 

I wish I had access to a sawmill but I don't and my go to guy can't sacrifice his big stuff trying to cut them (and at 300.00 for a 14 inch Tablesaw blade and 200.00 for a 20 inch bandsaw I don't blame him one bit. )  It could get REAL expensive real quick!!!

 

I was thinking the 12 inch tablesaw (I have a bunch of blades in case I hit an old spike) and finish with a sawzall? or try to put on a bandsaw ( 14 inch) and hope the kerf helps it track straight.

 

I would use my chainsaw (I have the carbide tipped blade, 179.00 from Stihl) but there's too much waste.

 

Ok, somebody AMAZE ME and solve this!!

Metal detect them , then remove any embedded foreign material .Thoroughly wash the beams and locate a sawyer via the internet . Happily pay for his band saw blades should he ask you to and let a professional slake the beams -

Mike......I can't really solve your dilema, but..........do you know of a shop that has a large enough band saw to handle your timbers. If they would allow you..........build a infeed/outfeed carriage to support the biggest timer and purchase your own bandsaw blades.

Mike..

 

First of all, before we "amaze" you what is the size of the beams?  And, how long are they?  Do you have a "nail finder?"

Then, I 'll try..

 

Larry

Yep timber size is a must before we amaze you.

12 ft long by 8in. x 8in. approx. give/take 1/2 inch.

 

No nail finder but I did go over them and look for black spots or shiny (I hit it with a belt sander in the divots to see if anything was there.)  Found a few but I think they were just "hanging nails".

While doing this ( it's about the easiest way for DRAGON1) have a supply of shims handy.  Place a shim in the kerf as you go along.    It will get the kerf from closing up, and pinching the saw blade.   Leave them in while you do the oppisite side as well.   Another idea:    IF you can split the beams into 4-5" sections, you can then resaw on the tablesaw, by cutting up to almost the middle of the slabe each side.   Mark each piece as you go.   Use the marks to Book-match the pieces.     Then glue up some nice bookmatched panels.

Joshua D. Rollins said:

kind of along the lines of your table saw and sawzall, you could just clamp a 2x4 to the beams as a guide to take a circular saw down both sides.  It would leave more in the middle for the sawzall to remove, but it could all be done on saw horses and wouldn't have to try to guide large beams on a table.

Yeah, the depth of the cut (how deep I can get with the tablesaw or circular saw) is a problem.

 

I would like to make it in two cuts but the tablesaw is only gonna go about 2-2 1/2 inches in.

 

Good idea about the shims Steve but this stuff is so old it's got 0 moisture in and I doubt it will move if at all.

 

I've got more of a concern of the wood having a part split out or seperate INSIDE the cut (2 1/2 in. cut, 1 1/2 in. piece fall/move into blade and explode inside the cut).

 By turning that 8x8 into a series of 4x4s, you will have gotten into the center of the beams.   Just one cut down the center line of the beam.    Now you have two pieces 4" thick, by 8" wide.    You can then slab off 1" thick slices that are 4" tall.  And yes, I have done 4" tall pieces on my old 10" tablesaw.     Just raise the blade to just over the center mark in height.     By splitting the beam down the middle, you will find out just how the pieces will "behave". 

 

Set the circ. saw to full depth, guide it down the center, on each "face".  Use the recip. saw, with a "pruning blade" to finish the split.    Run that area through a planer, to get rid of the "hump" in the middle.    Keep an eyeball peeled as you cut, the beam MIGHt have some stress inside.   

Infeed, and outfeed tables.    LISTEN to the saw as you go.   IF it does start to bind, add a shim.    I've even stuck an old drywall screw in the kerf, AFTER it is by the blade.    Use as few carbide teeth on a "decent" RIP blade as you can get,  yoo'll be planing saw marks anyway.   A 24 tooth works nice.   BTDT.   When you have the beam split, LOOK for cracks along the inside.    It may be a good idea to cut things down to a managable size, and cut out the bad areas.  

Yeah, due to the cracks and Stuff I wanted to get away with as little jointing as possibly ( there goes the 4x4 idea)

 

But I think if I go deep with the circular saw I should be able to get a sawzall to track straight enough (12 inch blade, wide tooth) and then plane out the "Hump"  and hope for the best. 

MIlwaukee AND Lenox make "wet wood" recip blades about 12" long. They are primarily used for limbing out trees/shrubs but the teeth are very course. The PROBLEM with those blades is they are normally cross cut set.

 

If you can find and old BOW SAW set the blade to the side and cut it by hand. Come on Mike, YOU CAN DO IT ... no I won't volunteer to help. The OTHER thought reeling in MY MIND is an antique store genuine-by-God RIP saw. They should be cheap enough and once sharpened will do a pretty good job of peeling off layers ... yes with sweat equity but none the less ... you look like you could use the exercise anyway.  : )

I used to own a Makita Beam Saw that could slice that sucker up in two passes. Or was it a Milwakee, don't remember, I do remember it was gold in color, it was built in the 80's I believe, but they still have em, and you might be able to rent one at your local equip rental outfit. They sport a massive 16 5/8" diameter blade that can make a cut about 6.5" deep. Set a straight edge on that beam, and rip it from both sides?

Gold was Makita - Mike try this link if your willing to buy a new tool ACCESSORY

http://toolmonger.com/2007/05/29/rip-lumber-up-to-a-foot-thick-with-your-circ-saw/

John Morris said:

I used to own a Makita Beam Saw that could slice that sucker up in two passes. Or was it a Milwakee, don't remember, I do remember it was gold in color, it was built in the 80's I believe, but they still have em, and you might be able to rent one at your local equip rental outfit. They sport a massive 16 5/8" diameter blade that can make a cut about 6.5" deep. Set a straight edge on that beam, and rip it from both sides?

Handyman John, I actually OWN a 1 man buck saw, a 2 man buck saw AND they are actually Razor sharp!!!  Just ask my freind John who decided to test the teeth by tapping one tooth 3 times!!!

 

3 seperate holes in his finger!!

 

I just might try it If I can't find a saw like the one John Morris mentioned.

 

I think I remember I used to have one but since my stuff is still in storage, I will have to find one!!!