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Bloodwood bleeding

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In the past, when I have used contrasting woods, such as bloodwood and Maple on a turning, when I sand it to a smooth finish I get dust bleedover. If you look closely at the toothpick holder, you can see that the Bloodwood red is in the light wood. This occured when I was sanding. I have made many things using special cutting/glueing


techniques I have come with and this has always been a problem.


 


How can I prevent this? I know that I can use a scraper on flat wood, but don't want to try something foolish on the lathe.


 


ning-freeformtoothpickholder-47658-87.jp

Ron, I  have had this same problem on a cutting board with Paduk. The problem came when I tried to wet sand it. I had already applied some oil and then tried to sand it. Made a real mess. It was fine sanding it while everything was dry. Did you have any finish on this piece when you sanded or was everything dry?


 

  • Author

It was my first experience with the problem. I just assumed that it was sand it smooth like normal.(dry, no finish) . When I started sanding all went normal, until I stopped and saw what was happening. I don't know of any way to make it smooth with out sand paper. I was thinking there may be a tool that is designed to bring it down to a fine surface.

John Moody said:

Ron, I  have had this same problem on a cutting board with Paduk. The problem came when I tried to wet sand it. I had already applied some oil and then tried to sand it. Made a real mess. It was fine sanding it while everything was dry. Did you have any finish on this piece when you sanded or was everything dry?

 

I've got one of the EWT that is the finisher. With a light touch you can get it smooth enough to not need sanding. It has a carbide cutter. You could order the cutters and make one for around 30.00. It would be less but you have to buy the cutters in a box of 10. They are 2.35 each.

  • Author

Can you send me a web site where I can see what you are talking about?

John Moody said:

I've got one of the EWT that is the finisher. With a light touch you can get it smooth enough to not need sanding. It has a carbide cutter. You could order the cutters and make one for around 30.00. It would be less but you have to buy the cutters in a box of 10. They are 2.35 each.

I've got a link on my pc at work. I'll send it to you tomorrow.

JM

Ron, Here is a video on turning a maple bowl with the EWT Finisher. I have one of these and it will cut so smooth you hardly have to sand. This is a finishing tool.


 



 


 


Now you can purchase your own cutters and make your own. Fastenal sells the key stock in three foot lengths. You can order the cutters from this site, http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/products/carbide-insert-knives.html


 


and you can order the round ones from here. http://www.carbidedepot.com/wood-turning.htm


 


You can build one of these and turn your own handle for about a third of the cost of the commercial one. I haven't made one my self yet, but I do have some cutters on order. I did purchase the one in the video.


 


This might get it clean enough to not have to sand any. I post a cherry bowl right after I took it off the lathe with no sanding on it at all.


 


ning-cherrybowl-47659-39.jpgning-cherrybowlbottom-47659-2.jpg


That bowl as not sanded and those pictures were right after I took it off the lathe.


 


 

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