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Too many projects cause problems

Featured Replies

Okay, I have had way too many projects going on in the shop at the same time. Saturday as I was working on putting some BLO on a bowl, I knocked over the can of BLO and some of it got on the QSWO table top. I got it off as quick as possible but you can still see where it was.


 


So I was going to stain the top but I am afraid the BLO section will not take the stain the same as the rest of the table. Should I just go ahead and put a coat of BLO on and let it try then stain it or what do you suggest?


 


Need some help with this one please.


 


John Moody


 

Just a thought John, that BLO might not have soaked in very far at all, maybe a mm or two. My first thoughts would be to sand it down a couple mm's and see how it looks. Sand it down until you can drop a bead of water on the area and see if it soaks in, if it beads on ya, then the oil is still present. Unless your in a hurry, I'd wait for some pros in the know to show up here through out the day and see what they have to say. Maybe Jenkins or Charles Neil will come on over and chime in.


John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

John2..


Before I give you an opinion, did the spilled BLO result in major darkening of the QSWO after you reemoved it and it dried?


Larry

  • Author

It is not real dark Larry, but it is darker than the rest of the top. I got as much wiped off as possible as quick as I could get to it.


 


 

John2..


We talked about Minwax Jacobean.


Here's an image of a sample board I made using Red Oak Plywood and Minwax stains.  Each sample has two coats of Satin poly on them, and then each sample was rubbed out using my favorite methods of 0000 steel wool and TreWax.


 


A note about the colors.  Plywood, when made, is sanded using large sanding drums in the Factory.  During this process, the grain fibers are compressed quite a bit, therefore closing them up some.  This prevents the pigmented stains from penetrating the wood as well as they would in solid lumber.


 


The samples shown are probably 1/2 to a full shade lighter, so be guideded accordingly.  Here's the image.


Larry


 


ning-100-0808a-44922-13.jpg

John, I would sand it down until it is gone, just like John said. I know a lot of guys use blo, but a good oil like waterlox or general finishes arm r seal is sooooo much better. You will need to get all that stuff off. It will make a color difference.


Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com

One more thing. If you want a good stain that is 100 times better then minwax, but want those colors, use ML Campbell woodsong stains. They will make them in minwax colors. Put it on, let it dry for an hour and topcoat with whatever you want. You don't have to wait days or weeks to dry. Minwax is about the worst stuff out there.


Bob Kloes
www.bobkloes.com
  • Author

Here is the sample board I made tonight. On the side to the right, I but some BLO on it, wiped it off and then put the stain on. This is the General Finishes gel stain.


 


ning-100-3896-44919-87.jpg?width=721


 


ning-100-3894-44919-64.jpg?width=721That is what I used on another project about a year and a half ago.


 


This is what I was planning on using on this table.


 


ning-100-3895-44919-4.jpg?width=721

A picture would be helpful. But sounds like you drowned the wood with BLO?


 


I would wet the entire top down with mineral spirits and work the spill area with dry rags and more mineral spirits. Try to pull out as much of the BLO as you can (dispose of the rags properly for risk of fire hazards). Then give the top a final wipe with mineral spirits and let dry. Sand with 180. Wipe your top back down with mineral spirits to see if the stain is still there?


After completing the above, you could mix 60/40 of the BLO and mineral spirits and apply to the entire project. In essence, you pre-conditioned your wood with BLO. Let it dry, scuff with 220 and stain.


 


That's just me. 106.gif


 


 


Curious to hear what our forum finishing Host has to say.




 


-Ace-

yes this could be a issue, what I would do would be to clean it well with some naphtha  , letting a wet rag sit on it a bit, would not hurt anything, it seems to have an ability to draw contaminates out, I recall  back in the  day, when we did alot of refinishing, sometimes you would spray a piece  and areas would not dry, wiping it with wet naphtha would  pull out whatever contaminate that was causing it not to dry , and it would then dry, BLO doesn't dry very well , so hopefully the  naphtha will draw it out, be sure not to let the rag sit too long, maybe 3 or 4 min, because we all know the dangers of solvent soaked rags and fire, and be sure to lay the cloth out to dry, but we do want to get it good and wet, and then keep cleaning it, meaning , wet it wipe it off with a clean cloth, this may take 3 or 4 cleanings, but hopefully it will remove the BLO, unfortunately, you will jot know for sure until you do a light stain test.. but I think you will be ok

  • Author

Oppps I thought I posted the picture with the others. I was chatting and posting and that was a problem also.


 


ning-100-3889-44916-78.jpg?width=721

Ace HoleInOne said:


A picture would be helpful. But sounds like you drowned the wood with BLO?


 


I would wet the entire top down with mineral spirits and work the spill area with dry rags and more mineral spirits. Try to pull out as much of the BLO as you can (dispose of the rags properly for risk of fire hazards). Then give the top a final wipe with mineral spirits and let dry. Sand with 180. Wipe your top back down with mineral spirits to see if the stain is still there?


After completing the above, you could mix 60/40 of the BLO and mineral spirits and apply to the entire project. In essence, you pre-conditioned your wood with BLO. Let it dry, scuff with 220 and stain.


 


That's just me. 106.gif


 


 


Curious to hear what our forum finishing Host has to say.




 


-Ace-

Hi John. I would wipe the whole thing down with the oil. After the oil has dried you can then stain with with the waterborne or tint the next coat of oil . A nice looking table by the way !

  • Author

Okay, well I put a very light coat of the BLO on the entire table tonight. If it wasn't what you suggested don't feel bad. After looking at the sample last night I think it will be fine to put the oil on, let it dry and then put the General Finish stain on. Anyway, here we go so I will keep you posted as to how it turns out. You can tell me good or bad.


 


ning-100-3898-44914-94.jpg?width=721ning-100-3899-44914-18.jpg?width=721ning-100-3901-44914-55.jpg?width=721Thanks for looking and giving me your opinion.


 


 





John Moody
John Moody Woodworks

John , please oil up some cutoffs and test stain to get a feel for water on oil . It certainly is not the same as raw wood . Also if you can try tinting your finish coat with their dye-stain group , works great. The table looks good now! Also be aware that you can dye-tint subsequent oil layers after this too.

  • Author

Thanks so much Rob. The GF stain is an oil base Gel Stain, so I think it will be okay.


 





John Moody
John Moody Woodworks

Well just test samples first . And I agree - it would be hard to screw up that naturally beautiful table !

  • Author

Well her is an update on the table.


 


Got a coat of the GF Brown Mahogany Gel Stain on and it looks pretty good. Just a light sanding and I will apply another very light coat just to even it up.


 


ning-100-3906-44910-36.jpg?width=721Here it is with just the BLO.


ning-100-3899-44910-78.jpg?width=721





John Moody
John Moody Woodworks

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