Another question for the finishing gurus on the site.  I am building a small liquor cabinet / serving bar for a local business. 

Is there any concerns about using oil-based versus water-based finishes?

Thanks in advance.

 

I'm gonna leave this one to Charles because I could should my ignorance quickly.  I really don't think it would matter but I want to hear what the pros say.

 

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Ron Dudelston
Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Will the finish be exposed to Alcohol? If not, I agree with Ron. I'm not a pro either, but, in my limited experience, oil based seems to build better and, the varnish I use (McClosky's Man-O-War) is pretty tough. More durable than any water based finish, I've used.

If it will be susceptible to alcohol spills, maybe a poured finish on the areas that will get spilled on. I've used this stuff for inlaying stone but never on a large surface. 

Good luck and please keep us apprised of your progress. Sounds like an interesting project.

 

My thought....is one better than the other for film resistance to alcohol spills, water and cleaning products, a more durable finish that can handle the movement of liquor bottles across the surface.

My vote is a good satin water-based that is able to achieve a good durability and hardness, a satin finish would provide “slip†so the bottles will slide across the surface offering more scratch resistance than a gloss.  I guess if you want to get technical, you could get into the various finish manufactures testing of oil vs. water-based. 

“Ideally†water-based finish takes 30 days to reach optimum hardness. So don’t put the surface in action to soon. That’s basically true with all water base finishes even though you can use them the day after the last coat is applied. How many coats,  2 heavy coats will be more durable than 4 thin coats. A lot has to do with the thickness of the film.

What kind of wood, A porous wood will absorb more finish and might have less on the surface. This would be more prone to have water marks.

 

-Ace-

 

Happy Fathers Day!

" “Ideally†water-based finish takes 30 days to reach optimum hardness."

Didn't know that about water based finishes. Maybe that's why I have the opinion that oil based is more durable. 

Thanks, Ace.

Learned some new and important about water bases finishes.

Thank you.

 

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Wayne
God Bless our Troops and Protect them.

Hey Gene...I have heard, back in the day, new car owners manual stated not to wax or buff your car for 30 to 90 days to give the paint "full" cure time. I am of the opinion, the only finish that can be fully cured in...say... 7 days is a UV or heat cured finish.


Its what your use to using and have confidence in ..oil/solvent or water...just make sure its cured before hard use such as alcohol/ water/ bottle abuse.


Just to clarify...if your wood is pours..be mindful of that fact...simply apply another coat to compensate the first one that is pulled down into the wood.


-Ace-

Gene Howe said:

" “Ideally†water-based finish takes 30 days to reach optimum hardness."

Didn't know that about water based finishes. Maybe that's why I have the opinion that oil based is more durable. 

Thanks, Ace.

The serving area will be red oak ply.  The area shouldn't be exposed to alot of alcohol but I know there will be some spills and drips on it.  Just trying to plan ahead and avoid a call-back in a couple of months.

If it were me, I would apply three coats of plain ole Satin Poly.  The oil based kind.  It has a "warmer" look on Oak Plywood than Water Based does. The cabinet should see no alcohol efffects unless you are not careful..

Then apply some of that great TreWax on the serving areas.  Pure Carnauba wax that repels liquids quite nicely.

Larry

 personally I would go with a good water base,  better resistence to chemicals, alcohol and abrasion, my choice would be either General Finishes High Performance with a cross linker or the Endurovar ( no cross linker needed) ( cross linkers greatly improve the wear and chemical resistence )