Jump to content

FINALLY GOT AROUND TO TESTING VARATHANE STAIN SAMPLES


Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522

Recommended Posts

Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522
Posted

Some years ago, the Varathane Company came out with a new line of stains that has a soya bean oil base.


 


One of their claims was that the soya bean oil base in the stains resulted in better clarity and more vivid colors.  So I tested some.


 


Here's an image of six different stains I applied and finished to get a "clarity" comparison.  They are:


 


Red Mahogany


Cabernet


Cherry


Golden Oak


Red Chestnut


 


Compare these colors with what you use.  I think you will find the Varathane stains to be just a tad clearer.   Samples are on 1/4" oak plywood with a rubbed-out Satin poly.


 


ning-100-0190a-42948-21.jpg 


 



Lare..


 



Lare..

Posted

Thanks for showing Larry. Curious, how many coats did you apply? And did you have to let it soak in for a long period of time before wiping back to get it to take?


 


-Ace-

Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522
Posted

Two coats, then rub-out  with TreWax and 0000 steel wool after two days.


I apply the stain with a rag and wipe it immediately.  That way I can control the coloration better.


 


 



Lare..

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Larry, good information.  Thanks for posting this.  


 


SQ


 



It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I am not good at applying varathane or varnish. I make a big mess out of it every time.  I get drips and it looks horrible.  I'm apparently not skilled enough to use that stuff.   Anyone else have these problems, or is it just me?


 


SQ


 



It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522
Posted

Wipe it on with one of your old nylon socks. Dip the sock into a 75% - 25% mixture of poly and Mineral spirits. Using latex gloves, wring out the sock a little to minimize running and wipe on, moving quickly.


 


Practice on a scrap piece.  The method takes a little learning.  Works very well.  Ask Ron Dudleston


Larry


 


 

Posted

Larry, your samples do look really good!


Ok, let me see if I understand this: You dilute the poly with mineral spirits -  for example 3/4 cup poly and 1/4 cup mineral spirits? You do not use the poly straight from the container? This polyurethane and mineral spirits mixture - does it store well?  Or should I only mix what I am going to use at the time?


 


Polyurethane and Varathane - are they just different brands of basically the same stuff?  Also, what do you think of shellac?


 


SQ



Larry Jenkins said:


Wipe it on with one of your old nylon socks. Dip the sock into a 75% - 25% mixture of poly and Mineral spirits. Using latex gloves, wring out the sock a little to minimize running and wipe on, moving quickly.


 


Practice on a scrap piece.  The method takes a little learning.  Works very well.  Ask Ron Dudleston


Larry


 


 




Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522
Posted

I guess I should have asked you what you are finishing.. 


Only mix (mix well!) enough to finish what you are working on.  Should you have a lot left over, just pour it back into the can.


Before resealing the can, use a kleenex to wipe out the channel where the lid resides to get a good seal.


Larry 

Posted

Thought I might try it on a box that I've scrolled.  I don't plan to use a poly finish on plate or platter as water would eventually get under it from constant washing.  I would never use it on a bowl, either for the same reason.   


 


SQ


 



It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...