Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Posted July 24, 2011 Some years ago, the Varathane Company came out with a new line of stains that has a soya bean oil base.  One of their claims was that the soya bean oil base in the stains resulted in better clarity and more vivid colors. So I tested some.  Here's an image of six different stains I applied and finished to get a "clarity" comparison. They are:  Red Mahogany Cabernet Cherry Golden Oak Red Chestnut  Compare these colors with what you use. I think you will find the Varathane stains to be just a tad clearer.  Samples are on 1/4" oak plywood with a rubbed-out Satin poly.    Lare..  Lare..
Ace HoleInOne Posted July 26, 2011 Report Posted July 26, 2011 Thanks for showing Larry. Curious, how many coats did you apply? And did you have to let it soak in for a long period of time before wiping back to get it to take? -Ace-
Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522 Posted July 26, 2011 Report Posted July 26, 2011 Two coats, then rub-out with TreWax and 0000 steel wool after two days.I apply the stain with a rag and wipe it immediately. That way I can control the coloration better.  Lare..
SQ Posted September 20, 2011 Report Posted September 20, 2011 Larry, good information. Â Thanks for posting this. Â Â SQÂ It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.
SQ Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 I am not good at applying varathane or varnish. I make a big mess out of it every time.  I get drips and it looks horrible.  I'm apparently not skilled enough to use that stuff.  Anyone else have these problems, or is it just me? SQ It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.
Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Wipe it on with one of your old nylon socks. Dip the sock into a 75% - 25% mixture of poly and Mineral spirits. Using latex gloves, wring out the sock a little to minimize running and wipe on, moving quickly. Practice on a scrap piece. The method takes a little learning. Works very well. Ask Ron DudlestonLarry Â
SQ Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Larry, your samples do look really good!Ok, let me see if I understand this: You dilute the poly with mineral spirits -  for example 3/4 cup poly and 1/4 cup mineral spirits? You do not use the poly straight from the container? This polyurethane and mineral spirits mixture - does it store well?  Or should I only mix what I am going to use at the time? Polyurethane and Varathane - are they just different brands of basically the same stuff?  Also, what do you think of shellac? SQLarry Jenkins said:Wipe it on with one of your old nylon socks. Dip the sock into a 75% - 25% mixture of poly and Mineral spirits. Using latex gloves, wring out the sock a little to minimize running and wipe on, moving quickly. Practice on a scrap piece. The method takes a little learning. Works very well. Ask Ron DudlestonLarry Â
Guest Larry Jenkins1409946522 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 I guess I should have asked you what you are finishing.. Only mix (mix well!) enough to finish what you are working on. Should you have a lot left over, just pour it back into the can.Before resealing the can, use a kleenex to wipe out the channel where the lid resides to get a good seal.LarryÂ
SQ Posted October 19, 2011 Report Posted October 19, 2011 Thought I might try it on a box that I've scrolled. Â I don't plan to use a poly finish on plate or platter as water would eventually get under it from constant washing. Â I would never use it on a bowl, either for the same reason. Â Â Â SQÂ It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.