Hello all. I am seeking opinions here.

 

The latest pen I have made, for some reason the parts are not matching up with the wood evenly.

 

I made this pen with the intention of selling it if possible. So the question is, Since the wood doesn't match the hardware evenly, would you not try selling it at all, or sell it at a discount?

 

I don't want to be selling something that people might feel is crud, but at the same time I would like to at least get the money back on the kit and some on the wood. It's Amboyna after all.

 

I'm looking for opinions, all opinions good bad and ugly

 

At the top of the band on the right side you'll see even in this blurry image that the wood doesn't quite meet the band same thing happens at the top right on the clip

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Charles

Are you using a mandrel? If so you may be getting a flex in it and cause it to turn a little off  where it connects to the bushing.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

What are you using to press the componets together?  I had trouble with this untill I got a pen press and the misalinment went away.  Just a thought.

Arlin, I was using my vise or clamps to install pen componets and I think I was not getting a direct line force? Misalignment was miniscule but visible. If I had been more careful I don't think I would get gaps, in fact if I repositioned the componets I could close the gap.

Arlin Eastman said:

Charles

One other thing is you might me turning the tailstock to tight on the mandrel.  Just tighten alittle bit to hold it in place.  PSI does have a center for placing a mandrel into it up to the bushings.  I have one and it works great.  It just puts pressure on the bushings and not on the mandrel.

Arlin

 

Ron - I never had that happen.  Could you please expain how it happens so I do not do it.

Hey Charles,

I turn several different kits and I use stock bushings between centers. As long as the hole in them is drilled on center, then you can use them. I turn a lot of cigar pens and I have used the stock bushings on them all. All you need is a 60 degree dead center. I got mine from grizzly for around 9.00.

Another tip to try is once you get close to your finished dimension is loosen the nut on the mandrel and seperate the bushings from the barrel and rotate the blank 45 deg. and retighten the bushings and nut on the blank and that will correct some missalignment as long as it's not to out of round. I've used barrel trimmers with varying success.

Charles,

Have you been on the "International Association of Penturnes" website and forums? If not, then you should check them out as they are the top place period on the web for penturning. They have great forums and can help with any issue that you are having and there are a lot of nice folks there. It is a free site.

I have not turned any pens for awhile but I used to do quite a few of them. I agree with the comments about the mandrel turning as the mandrel may be straight but can bow when the tail stock is tightened. Also depending on the type of pen and bushings, there can be more or less bowing. The best way to turn is between centers. I have found that most of the different types of bushings will work well using the centers as long as they have the protrusions that slide inside of the brass tubes. Most of the "Slimline" bushings do not have the protrusions so you have to use a mandrel. Over on the IAP site there was (I haven't been there for some time) a guy that went by the screen name of "Johnny CNC" who makes and sells bushings for turning between centers for most styles. I bought bushings for the Slimline for turning between centers and they are great!. They were more than your typical ones from your local wood working store, but they are much better quality. What I do is use 2 different sets of bushings for pens using my good ones for turning and then an older set for sanding as bushings do wear down over time. I also use a set of digital calipers for measuring everything before, during and after turning. The hardware size on pen sets can very so I always trust my calipers as opposed to the bushings or what the "Kit Instructions" say. Also as was stated getting a pen press is a really good idea. I had picked up one of Rockler's Pen Vises which works pretty well, but it is very limited. I also use a vise for assembly using pieces of leather that have magnetic tape on the back which will stick to the metal face of the vise so that the vise will not damage the wood or hardware. This works well but you have to be very careful to make sure that you keep things straight. Another thing is to put a little bit of a bevel on the inside of the brass tubes. I use a countersink bit in my drilldriver at low speed and spin it a few times and this takes off any burs and puts a bevel on the edge making it easier to get the hardware to slide into the tube straight. As for whether to sell or not, if the pen is not good enough to sell, then I would chalk it up to experience and either use it for yourself or give it away. Also you should be able to take the pen apart using a punch. I have been able to take apart every style of pen that I have made. But then again, I have not made the specific one that you have so it may be different.

 

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Allen Worsham
Corona, CA

allenworsham@earthlink.net

http://www.awcreationsandwoodcrafts.com

'Graze in every man's field, but always give your own milk' J. Vernon McGee

I can't help with this pen, but maybe with the next...

 

Take your mandrel and roll it on a known flat surface.  If it doesn't ride smoothly, it's bent.

 

If it's bent, replace it.  If not, only turn one have of the pen at a time--mount half and only turn it NEAR THE HEAD STOCK.  This will help prevent any whipping.  It's how I turn my two-piece pens.

 

On your design...the bulge is too great.  It looks clunky and fat.  Allow for a much more gentle taper by not making the pieces so thick.

 

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Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com

Ah.  I should have looked at the original thread date!

 

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Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com