one of the machine i was restoring was drooped over on its side and the cast pulley guard was broken. it was also missing all the peaces. i could have sent it to get recast,or have made one with MDF. Too cast is cheap ,but buy the time i made a mold shipped and milled the new one it would have been $300. MDF is fine for some guards ,but i find them to be fake . i thought i would try brass and solder. here is how it turned out. it took 4 hours to fix and cost $18. so for those with just a pluming kit here is  a way that is in your reach and cheep too Larry.

 

 

the guard as i got it

 

fitting the heavy 1/16" brass

 

drilled holes for brass pins

 

 

 

 

the weld was easy.

i cut some brass rod in half on the bandsaw for the lip.

 

 

cleaned up the out side and it looks good. feels real strong.

i think its an honest repair. i will disk sand the weld on the outside for paint . i will leave the inside as is no need to hide a repair there. the drilled brass pins act as mechanical bridge to the cast.it help hold the solder where there was no brass plate. on the back they are covered. its not really a weld to the cast, more like glue.the solder flows in the holes and locks them in. you could tap the holes if you wanted too an use brass thread.

 

BTW the repair is for  a little jointer from england. from the 1930's

 

 

jack

English machines

Now that is just amazing.

 

I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration now Jack.

 

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Cool!

I know solder will bond to brass. What was the material of the original pulley guard. The solder looks as if it really bonded to it, also.

Lew

Jack,

Very nice repair on this casting.

I've done similar repairs on cast, but just to repair cracks.

Another one of your fine tips that I'll have to store away in the memory bank.

I just hope the old brain doesn't go into overload, with all of these tips.

Regards,

Larry

Duh, if I had read the title, I could have avoided asking a stupid question. Story of my life!!

 

Lew

That is a cool repair. Nice touch with the brass pins. I was told a long time ago by a coppersmith that solder has no physical strength so you compensated for that fact.

Jack,

Was that plumbers silver solder that you used?

I've brazed cast before using a rosebud tip on an oxy/acetolene torch.

Regards,

Larry

John This has been on the works for a while and i am in the finile stages after come real close to finishing.

OK the back story boys

 

they(the old machines we get) are never as good as you think. There were many things wrong with this one , broken cast, 550 volts, no manuals, missing parts odd electric and so on. 
The British bridge guards were all missing and  shop made pork chop that it came with was just bolted on. so i had to make new English bridge guards with nothing to go on but some old pics of other machines.
I was not going to post until i was done. I was 90% there and run into a snag with the single phase motor running backwards. so i had to take it all apart   and that motor is one::::::::: to get in that small space.

 
this machine is from the 30s and is a prototype bed design. that was way ahead of its time for England. Most planers(that what the English call a jointer) are gib ways on angled beds for the rise and fall. this is a parallelogram table design. I have found no earlier UK exampled than this little bursgreen. It come in at about 500lbs.

The old switch is covered by the one you see on it now and when I took it off I found the Bursgreen switch gear that was rated for 550 volt. I wanted to bring it bake so i repaired the switch gear and the broken switches.

the switch

I went to change the motor wiring and the fence was not attached and when I  lifted it up to get at the motor from the bottom. the fence slide off and and hit the floor.:>(

   this is my first try at cast welding. in fact it was my fist weld as i just got the used welder of the list. I used nickel 99 cast rod so I could work the welds after.

I could use more practice welding ,but I am not to proud to show you. every one starts at the beginning:)
looking for free tips if you have any boys?

so i am right where i started almost. any way here is what see looks like.

 

before

after with the bridges guards I made with brass.

oh ya i added deco.

 

jack

English machines

 

John Moody said:

Now that is just amazing.

 

I am looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration now Jack.

 

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Holly cow! That is gorgeous. Thats some great restoration work you have performed.

Wow Jack that is awesome. I really enjoy seeing these pieces come to life. I envy your talent. I would have looked at it and said it was too far gone and you see a diamond.

 

Very nice and thanks for posting it. I will have to start looking at the older machine much more closely.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

My first old tool way in very good shape. I would have called it plug and play. once i got bit by the OWWM bug i looked for the ones most would walk away from. Its really alot easer than it looks John.

 

jack

English machines


John Moody said:

Wow Jack that is awesome. I really enjoy seeing these pieces come to life. I envy your talent. I would have looked at it and said it was too far gone and you see a diamond.

 

Very nice and thanks for posting it. I will have to start looking at the older machine much more closely.

 

---

John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Jack,

I to adopt the orphans that most people would walk away from, I guess we see the diamond where others see the coal.

That and there's the pride in seeing what we can recreate from a machine that would probably end up as parts, or worse yet scrapped. Also getting the use out of what we have recreated is a thrill that only comes by having done so.

Your work is an inspiration to me as well as alot of folks here, so keep up the good work.

Regards,

Larry