It started out well.  Laminated the wood, and let it dry.  Attached the glue block.  Once the glue block had dried overnight, I attached the face plate and it was time for wood chips to fly!  And boy did the chips fly!

 

I must have tried a half dozen different profiles for the top edge.  Didn't like any of them.  They were too busy and I thought it detracted from the busy random wood pattern.  Finally decided on this one.  

 

Just as I thought - the plate/platter which had started out at 13 1/4 inches is now a mere 11 5/16 inches in diameter.   

 

This plate/platter is not done yet.  The glue blank was starting to lift off - from a catch so decided to remove it.  So far I have just sanded the glue off the bottom of the plate and it's not level.  Plate still needs a bit more work and final sanding.

 

Question # 1:  Do I dare run this plate through the planer - face down and level the bottom of the plate so I can reattach the glue block and face plate. Can I do this without ripping the daylights out of the plate? 

 

Question # 2:    I think this flaw is a tool catch.  Think a little CA and sawdust would fix it?  Think I can make it look like an anomaly in the wood?

 

The upside, if there is one, is that it didn't turn out the size of a coaster.

 

SQ

 

 

 

 

 

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It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

I wouldn't run it through the planer; it will probably get crushed.  Mount it with a friction driver and the tail stock and level the back with a gouge, then attach a waste block to it.

 

Fill the void with sandings and glue.

 

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Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com

Question # 1:  Do I dare run this plate through the planer - face down and level the bottom of the plate so I can reattach the glue block and face plate. Can I do this without ripping the daylights out of the plate? 

 

You can run it through as long as it is edge grain or face grain. Just don't run it through if it is end grain. I would also stick it to a carrier piece to run it through like plywood or MDF, something that is flat and longer than the piece. Most planers suggest you not run things shorter than 12" through. They can get sideways and sling out. Not sure what it would do since this is a round piece, so I would attach it to some type of carrier.

 

If you don't want to do that, a belt sander would probable level up the bottom enough for you to attach the glue block to it.

 

Question # 2:    I think this flaw is a tool catch.  Think a little CA and sawdust would fix it?  Think I can make it look like an anomaly in the wood?

 

Yes you should be able to fix the place with some ca and sawdust. Give it time to setup good and then continue turning. Make sure you don't have a dull edge on the tools as they will catch as you are coming into the end grain part of the board. That is most likely where you will get a catch.

 

 

 

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

What is a friction driver?  Are they called waste blocks?  I will use the proper term next time.  

I suppose I could try and plane it by hand.  But not real keen on that idea.

 

SQ

Jason Swearingen said:

I wouldn't run it through the planer; it will probably get crushed.  Mount it with a friction driver and the tail stock and level the back with a gouge, then attach a waste block to it.

 

Fill the void with sandings and glue.

 

---

Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com

Planing by hand will work well.

 

Mount a wooden block in your drive and put some carpet padding on it.  This is your friction drive.

 

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Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com

Thanks guys for all the suggestions.  I used duct tape and taped the plate down to a wooden cutting board and wearing body armor -  ran it through the planer several times. .  I was holding my breath.  But it came through the planer with no problems.  Seems that the planer did compress the center of the bowl as it passed through the planer, so there was still a a high spot in the center. I figured I better not press my luck and run it through the planer any more times.  Instead I took the disk sander and leveled the bottom using a metal straight as a guide until it was level.  Pleased to report I have  the waste block glued onto the bottom of the plate.  Mission accomplished!  Will let it dry overnight.  Mean time - chips are flying off a bowl.     

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

SQ

 

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It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

Glad to know you were able to get it done. Can't wait to see how it all turns out.

 

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John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Thanks for the info about what we call the block.  I'm here to learn the lingo, too.  

I actually have created my own multi - sized template for the waste/glue blocks (covering all my bases). I decide which size block I need, and adhere it to a piece of wood.  I do not remove the pattern as I will need the corresponding lines later.  On this template  I've added the horizontal and vertical line PLUS the small blue circle is how I line up the hole in the face plate.  The blue circle just fits inside the hole on my face plate where the spindle is attached.  After I find the center of the plate/platter or bowl - using a compass & ruler, I have not only the center of the plate/platter, or bowl but also the corresponding horizontal & vertical lines.   I use the horizontal & vertical line on the waste/glue block and line it up on the horizontal & vertical lines on the bottom of the plate/platter or bowl and BINGO I have dead center.  

 

Does this make sense to you?  I hope so.  

 

SQ

Arlin Eastman said:

Sue

Waste Block, Glue Block, are the same thing depends who is calling it in the book or DVD.  One idea that would greatly help you like it did me is get or take several dozen pictures of plates/platters you do like and put them in a binder.  That way you can always use the picture as a templete.  Then when that is done take a picture of that one also.

I last suggestion is  make notes on each picture of what you like and dislike so it will help you later.

Arlin

Jason,

 

I'm still not real clear on the friction driver.  Wish I had a picture - hint, hint.  I think if I understood it more clearly, I could find any uses for it.    Dang, I love this forum.

 

SQ


Jason Swearingen said:

Planing by hand will work well.

 

Mount a wooden block in your drive and put some carpet padding on it.  This is your friction drive.

 

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Semper fi
www.swearingen-turnings.com

oops should read " many uses for it" not any uses for it.  Where is that edit button?

 

SQ


SQ said:

Jason,

 

I'm still not real clear on the friction driver.  Wish I had a picture - hint, hint.  I think if I understood it more clearly, I could find any uses for it.    Dang, I love this forum.

 

SQ

Jason Swearingen said:

 

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It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.

Hey Sue,

I made some waist blocks out of Red Oak. I cut them semiround with the bandsaw, I started out with square blocks 2 inch thich marked the center and drilled a 15/16 hole just deep enough to cut enough threads to screw on my spindle. The reason for not drilling all the way through is so that when you screw on the waist block it bottoms out before it hits the back of the spindle, keeping it from getting stuck. I have about 4 of them, this way if you want to start another project, you dont have the one face plate tied up. They work really well. Also if you glue your turning block to the waste block, you have about 1 inch of wood to play with after you part your project off. Hope that this is as cleaar as mud. My spindle threads are 1x8 tpi that is why I drilled a 15/16 hole in them. I used a regular metal tap to cut the threads with.

Keith,

 

Thanks for the information.  Very clever idea.  Your explanation makes perfect sense.  

 

SQ


keith long said:

Hey Sue,

I made some waist blocks out of Red Oak. I cut them semiround with the bandsaw, I started out with square blocks 2 inch thich marked the center and drilled a 15/16 hole just deep enough to cut enough threads to screw on my spindle. The reason for not drilling all the way through is so that when you screw on the waist block it bottoms out before it hits the back of the spindle, keeping it from getting stuck. I have about 4 of them, this way if you want to start another project, you dont have the one face plate tied up. They work really well. Also if you glue your turning block to the waste block, you have about 1 inch of wood to play with after you part your project off. Hope that this is as cleaar as mud. My spindle threads are 1x8 tpi that is why I drilled a 15/16 hole in them. I used a regular metal tap to cut the threads with.

Sue I too have used saw dust and CA but it doesn't always come out as well as I wanted. I have started using TIMBER MATE wood filler. It's shelf life is oh so much longer than most other fillers.  It can be reconstituted with just a bit of warm water. Get the shade that comes closest to your project wood.

I have no interest or affiliation with this product other than it works for me.

Also I thought that I would add that when running your plate or platter through the planner, tape a support piece inside the bowl so that the center doesn't  compress down when going through the tool.

Leo in AZ.

I wish I had thought of taping something in the center of the plate before I ran it through the planer.  That's a great idea! Will remember that next time

Thanks for the information about Timber Mate wood filler.  I've tried several wood fillers in the past, and wasn't at all pleased with them.  Will give this one a try.  

 

Thanks for the information.

SQ

 

 

 

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It it can't be fixed with glue and sawdust - it's not worth fixing.