Well alright, now that we know the motor actually runs and the rest of the press is in great condition, I started to break down the motor today. I got it apart. Once apart it was obvious that the bearings need to be replaced. I gave it a twist and they sounded grindy. Even after I had let the press run for about 15 minutes as suggested it the sound didn't go away so bearings are definitely in order here. I received some great information from Ken regarding where to buy the bearings and how.

My question to the owwm guys here, is there anything else I need to do while I got it apart besides blast it with compressed air to get the dust out, or is compressed air a no no? Should I brush away dust and sawdust? The inside is pretty dirty, grungy etc. I don't know how much I should clean it, I am concerned about damaging the windings if that is possible.

A problem I am having at this point as well is getting the shaft separated from the front motor cover so I can get to the front bearing. The bearing you see here in the pic is the rear bearing. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. What do I need a puller of some type?

Thanks for looking and for your valuable advice.

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

John,

The front bearing may have a little rust, or dirt holding it in place. It may also have had some shellac applied to hold the race in place. I would try to lightly wiggle it out of place. You could also hold a block of wood on the end of the shaft, and try tapping it loose.

As far as cleaning the motor out, the insulation is probably pretty brittle. So I would use care if using a brush or any type of tools. If you just get the major loose sawdust etc. out with compressed air you should be fine. If you do use a brush use a soft bristled one. I know of guys that have used a type of spray contact cleaner, but have never used one myself for fear of disolving the shellac coating on the windings. I figure if the light layer of dirt is doing no harm, better to leave it alone.

There are bearing pullers available that are like a small gear puller, for removing the bearings from the shaft. Be carefull of the phenolic disc behind the bearing, that is part of the centrifical switch. They are hard to find replacements for.

Larry

I would use an old tooth brush to clean the inside of the windings and then a shop vac. Be very careful with the compressed air. As for the stuck bearing, there may be a snap ring under it holding it in place. Does the bell end have a cover over the bearing on the outer surface? If so, carefully pry the cover off and see if there are snap rings.

If no snap ring, soak the bearing in Kroil or PBlaster and then use a puller to remove the bell end from the shaft

Here is a thread that is very close to what you are doing

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=4983297&fpart=&PHPSESSID=

---

My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist

That's exactly what I am doing Ken, thanks! I need to take more pics like this guy did!

Ken Rasmussen said:

I would use an old tooth brush to clean the inside of the windings and then a shop vac. Be very careful with the compressed air. As for the stuck bearing, there may be a snap ring under it holding it in place. Does the bell end have a cover over the bearing on the outer surface? If so, carefully pry the cover off and see if there are snap rings.

If no snap ring, soak the bearing in Kroil or PBlaster and then use a puller to remove the bell end from the shaft

Here is a thread that is very close to what you are doing

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Boar...

---

My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

If light tapping doesn't free up the bearing, try saturating the bearing / shaft joint with penetrating oil and heating it with either  a heat shrink gun or a hair dryer or even small applications of heat from a propane torch and then cool it with either "FREEZE SPRAY". Freeze Spray comes in an aerosol can, repeat with oil, heating and cooling a few times with light tapping. This will usually break the bond caused by corrosion. I've used this method for over 30 years in the aviation industry and it works very well with only a few times that I needed something more drastic. If that doesn't work and you don't have a wheel puller, take it to a machine shop with an arbor press.

Thanks Mike! More great advice for my arsenal! As you know, I am just starting out so any and all support and info is greatly appreciated.

Mike Dillen said:

If light tapping doesn't free up the bearing, try saturating the bearing / shaft joint with penetrating oil and heating it with either  a heat shrink gun or a hair dryer or even small applications of heat from a propane torch and then cool it with either "FREEZE SPRAY". Freeze Spray comes in an aerosol can, repeat with oil, heating and cooling a few times with light tapping. This will usually break the bond caused by corrosion. I've used this method for over 30 years in the aviation industry and it works very well with only a few times that I needed something more drastic. If that doesn't work and you don't have a wheel puller, take it to a machine shop with an arbor press.

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Thanks again guys for your suggestions. I was able to take a piece of wood, set against the shaft and hammer the shaft out of the front bell, it took some time but it came out, I am scratching my head right now trying to figure out how I am going to get it back in! But the pictures I saw over at Woodnet provided me the confidence to go ahead and just whack the heck out of it strategically with the wood as a buffer between my hammer and the shaft. Now I need to pull the bearings, any suggestion?

John Morris said:

That's exactly what I am doing Ken, thanks! I need to take more pics like this guy did!

Ken Rasmussen said:

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

John......If you dont have a puller I would suggest buying one. I am not a big fan of Horror Freight but in this case it might be worth a look.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-three-jaw-puller-40970.html

John Morris said:

Thanks again guys for your suggestions. I was able to take a piece of wood, set against the shaft and hammer the shaft out of the front bell, it took some time but it came out, I am scratching my head right now trying to figure out how I am going to get it back in! But the pictures I saw over at Woodnet provided me the confidence to go ahead and just whack the heck out of it strategically with the wood as a buffer between my hammer and the shaft. Now I need to pull the bearings, any suggestion?

John Morris said:

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Thanks Ken! That's going to my last minute Christmas present request to my family! That's what I need alright. Now, how the heck do I get them back in and seated correctly!

Ken Rasmussen said:

John......If you dont have a puller I would suggest buying one. I am not a big fan of Horror Freight but in this case it might be worth a look.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-three-jaw-puller-40970.html

John Morris said:

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

---

My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

John,

I've used a deep well socket in the past to drive the bearings back onto the shafts. Just use one that fits over the shaft, and fits the inner race of the bearing ( the part that is a press fit on the shaft) If the shaft is to long for a deep well socket, a piece of pipe will also work. To get the bearing back into the housing use the block of wood and tap it in from the opposite end of the shaft.

Regards,

Larry

Thanks Larry, that is excellent. Now I can sleep! I was wonderful how the hockey sticks I was going to get er back in.

Larry Buskirk said:

John,

I've used a deep well socket in the past to drive the bearings back onto the shafts. Just use one that fits over the shaft, and fits the inner race of the bearing ( the part that is a press fit on the shaft) If the shaft is to long for a deep well socket, a piece of pipe will also work. To get the bearing back into the housing use the block of wood and tap it in from the opposite end of the shaft.

Regards,

Larry

---

John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker

Good advise from Larry. If the bearings do not seat well you may be tempted to put the bolts back in and "pull" things back together. I would most definitely not attempt that, you run a risk of cracking an end bell. Clean the bearing seats really well and the outer race of the bearing as well before reassembly. You can also use a very thin film of oil to help the bearing slide in. Another option is to put the rotor in the freezer for an hour or so and place the bearings on an incandescent light bulb for about 15 minutes. The combo of heat and cold will allow the bearing to slip right on.

---

My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist