Guest Charles Nicholls1409946494 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 As i mentioned in John Moody's post about what we were doing this weekend, i am trying to get this bowl finished but it is not going without a fight. It's maple, so nothing is going to be easy, but then I like challenges too. Thanks Sue for giving me something to challenge my mind Great color too! Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.nethttp://www.nichollswoodworks.comThis website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look
lew Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 Great looking bowl, Charles! Yes, Maple has its' challenges but the end results are worth it!What finish are you using? I tried Walnut Oil once but Mimi said it had a "funny" smell so I went back to plain Mineral Oil from the pharmacy section of the grocery store.Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
Mike Dillen Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 After you've applied 2 coats of mineral oil with 8 to 10 hrs between coats, use 1/2 cup mineral oil in a small pot heat the oil on low heat and place a few small pieces of beeswax in the pot and mix until melted, turn off the heat and apply 1 coat of this mix with a paper towel (make sure it's not too hot so you don't burn yourself) let stand for 8 to 10 hrs then reapply 1 more coat. After a few hrs wipe off excess was and buff with a cotton rag.Â
lew Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 Mike, I was thinking about this the other day. I used some "straight" bee's wax to "lubricate" a sliding joint. I noticed it was rather "sticky" even after rubbing most of it off. My thought was, would this also be a characteristic of a mineral oil and bee's wax finish. That lead me to wonder why we don't make the oil/wax finish from mineral oil and paraffin wax as both are basically made from the same processes. I would think they would mix readily when heated and have a clear rather than yellowish color. They are both food safe.  Just thinking out loud.Mike Dillen said:After you've applied 2 coats of mineral oil with 8 to 10 hrs between coats, use 1/2 cup mineral oil in a small pot heat the oil on low heat and place a few small pieces of beeswax in the pot and mix until melted, turn off the heat and apply 1 coat of this mix with a paper towel (make sure it's not too hot so you don't burn yourself) let stand for 8 to 10 hrs then reapply 1 more coat. After a few hrs wipe off excess was and buff with a cotton rag.Â
lew Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 Charles, Found this-Â Mineral Oil has a flash point of 170C (335F), and a boiling point of 310C (590F). By definition, "Flammable liquid" means any liquid having a flashpoint below 100 deg. F. Therefore, Mineral Oil is not a flammable liquid, however it is a Class IIIB Combustible Liquid, meaning that it will burn, but must be exposed to high heat before it will sustain a flame. Charles Nicholls said: Thanks Mike, that's a bit risky here though, my stove is a gas stove so the temperature is a bit hard to regulate. I hear that mineral oil has a low combustion temp so not to get over 150, it would be OK if I had a chef's thermometer but i don't. I heard once that someone just rubbed the wax in by just holding it to the bowl or whatever item they were doing and to them it seemed to do fine, has anyone here done that before? Thanks Mike Dillen said: Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.nethttp://www.nichollswoodworks.comThis website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look
Mike Dillen Posted February 25, 2012 Report Posted February 25, 2012 I actually use a small 1 qt crock pot that I heat up the oil & wax mix with, but that's all I use it for. I got the crock pot at goodwill for about $3.00. Paraffin will work as well and doesn't have the yellow look to it. The wax and oil mixture is what I use on some of my cutting boards, although for a more durable finish I use GENERAL FINISHES Salad Bowl Finish mixed 50% with mineral spirits. I've found this to last longer than any other finish.Lewis Kauffman said:Mike, I was thinking about this the other day. I used some "straight" bee's wax to "lubricate" a sliding joint. I noticed it was rather "sticky" even after rubbing most of it off. My thought was, would this also be a characteristic of a mineral oil and bee's wax finish. That lead me to wonder why we don't make the oil/wax finish from mineral oil and paraffin wax as both are basically made from the same processes. I would think they would mix readily when heated and have a clear rather than yellowish color. They are both food safe.  Just thinking out loud.Mike Dillen said:Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
Mike Dillen Posted February 27, 2012 Report Posted February 27, 2012 When using the salad bowl and mineral spirits your not trying to build the finish on the surface of the wood, your only conditioning the wood fibers otherwise the built up finish may chip or flake off.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.