March 18, 201214 yr   While finishing a fret work potpourri box I faced the task of applying finish to the intricate nooks & crannys in the lid. Everything I read suggested small artist brushes. Well I can tell you I absolutely hate brushes and anything that resembles painting and this sounded just like that so I came up with a way of avoiding it. I poured a about an ounce of danish oil into a ziploc bag and placed the lid into it and sealed it up and then moved it around until it was completely coated then removed it and wiped off the excess and then placed it onto triangles to soak in until the next coat 30 minutes later. The finish appears to be even and complete. The remaining finish in the bag I poured into a small metal can and I should be able to use it again.How do you folks do it? Is there any reason that I shouldn't do it this way?
March 18, 201214 yr Sounds like the best way to me also, have read in different mags how pieces are dipped like that. Cannot wait to see the finished piece.No greater Loves than God, Family, Friends, country, the sight of flying chips and the smell of saw dust.
March 19, 201214 yr Mike, I use a couple different methods. if the piece is not going to have any kind of backing glued to it I put my danish oil in a plastic container and just dunk it, then let dry. If I don't want any finish on the back for gluing purposes I just wipe it on with a rag, of use a throwaway type brush. I would've never thought about the zip loc bag trick, good idea. Since I started making my own danish oil in a gallon can I have been just dunking items straight in the can. GregScroll Saw forum hosthttp://www.thesawdustfactory.net/
March 20, 201214 yr Mike a couple other things that work good for finishing fret work are the sponge type brushes, and also the throw away brushes, that a lot of people call chip brushes. GregScroll Saw forum hosthttp://www.thesawdustfactory.net/
March 20, 201214 yr Mikeyou can spray the finish also. Using the bad for danish oil is a nice trick, something I will adapt for some of my pieces. Sometimes for the smaller more detailed stuff, I do use a small artist brush, but I also use a air brush also to apply top coats of lacquer and poly. It gives you full control, dries fast easy clean up. For larger pieces, you can use a finishing gun. Same effect, just covers a lot more area faster.Wayne MahlerGod bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.
March 20, 201214 yr Author Greg would you care to share your recipe for your danish oil? I know I'd be interested.Greg I also like the cheap foam brushes, I find they provide a good smooth layer of finish without the brush strokes as long as you use a light touch.Wayne I have an airbrush and will put it to use in the future, thanks for the reminder since I had forgotten all about it's potential value.Thanks all for your input and might I say they are all great tips and ideas and I'll put them away in my brain for latter use.
March 20, 201214 yr Mike, this came from Wood magazine last summer or fall. Take 3 equal parts of BLO, mineral spirits, and a polyurathane, and mix them together. I used a Qt of each, and mixed it in a Gal. paint can, which I bought just for this so I wouldn't have to worry about any contamination. I used Minwax semi-gloss poly. Money wise it works out about the same as buying an equal amount of Watco danish oil, but you have the option of using a gloss, semi or satin poly. GregScroll Saw forum hosthttp://www.thesawdustfactory.net/
March 20, 201214 yr Author Thanks Greg! This recipe should be in the "RESOURCES" area. I think others would find it useful. I'll be mixing up a batch this weekend and thanks for your help.
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