May 17, 201214 yr I would sure like to be able to do something like this soon Segmented Ornament maybe with larger clamps I'll be able to once I get back into a better wood supply Just something I found that I really like. Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.nethttp://www.nichollswoodworks.comThis website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look
May 18, 201214 yr Nice looking turning. Probably need some kind of jig/press to make the glue-up, however.Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
May 18, 201214 yr Charles,Just thought of something as I re-read this and your post about the the gap in the 4 pieces you had problems with. I read, or someone told me, that if- after you apply/spread out the glue on the surface of the wood- you can rub those glued surfaces together- helping to spread the glue more- as you rub the pieces the glue actually starts to set a little and there is less slippage when you clamp them. I've even heard the with well fitting pieces, using this method, you can actually clamp with masking tape and rubber bands.For what it's worth...Lew Kauffman-Wood Turners Forum HostTime traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!
May 18, 201214 yr Lew, That's my method, too. After rubbing them together, I separate them and leave it open a minute or so to let it get tacky. I use TiteBond ll. It sets pretty fast. Different glues might need to be open a little longer. Then, I let the glued pieces, hand pressed together set for a few more minutes to "grab" before applying the clamps. Most of my face glue ups are around 8X16, and most are composed of 3 ea. 1 1/2 thick pieces. I try to glue up all three pieces at one time. Maybe not a good idea.?? Clamps are my only option as I don't have a press. And clamps, when not exactly positioned, cause slippage. *&%# Even doing it as above I still get a little slippage. If possible, I guess that one could drive some pin nails (off the cut line) and snip them off so they'd grab the opposing piece. Gene'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
May 18, 201214 yr Hey guys,I just remembered a post on another forum long ago. Seems the poster was having similar problems. IIRC, he scraped some grit off an old piece of 100(?) grit paper onto his already spread glue before mating the pieces and clamping.I've never tried it but I think I will.If anyone else does before I get to it, let us know how it worked.Gene'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
May 18, 201214 yr Charles, a method a lot of intarsia artists use is to put just enough ca glue on a couple corners to hold the work together while the regular glue dries. This enables them to glue up large projects quickly. GregScroll Saw forum hosthttp://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/
May 18, 201214 yr Supposedly, to keep the pieces from sliding when clamps are applied. Like I said, dunno if it works well.....or not at all. But I will try it.Gene'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton
May 18, 201214 yr Charles, the best way for me to describe it is putting an intarsia peice together is like putting a puzzle together, and with the CA you get the instant bond while wood glue dries, so you can keep gluing pieces together instead of having to wait on glue to dry before you glue the next piece. A lot of intarsia pieces are hard to clamp hence the use of the CA. Hope i got this clear as mud for you. What I'm thinking is that this would help prevent the pieces from shifting. Charles Nicholls said: Odd I'll have to work on that, Lord knows I have a LOT of CA Greg Aksdal said: Charles NichollsSite Hostnicholls61@att.nethttp://www.nichollswoodworks.comThis website is new so it doesn't have much to it yet but you are welcome to take a look
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