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Reverse scroll saw blades

Featured Replies

Ok, I'm sold on the reverse blades. The chip out is, for the most part gone on the back side of the work. With the "normal" blades, how do you stop or keep chip out under control????


I think I've read somewhere about using packing tape but I haven't gotten that far yet.


Thanks for helping out this "rookie" scroll sawer Grin.gif




Harry Brink
Bulldog Woodworking
Montana

Harry


The double reverse blades will help a lot with the chip out on the back side. Also controlling the speed of the saw and how fast you feed the wood to the blade. You can make a zero cut insert very simply. Take an old playing card, feed it to the blade till you reach the middle of the card. Stop the saw, take some packing tape and tape it to the table top. This is great for doing small fine cuts and not breaking off the little pieces while working. Hope this helps.




Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

I did what Wayne said, except used a piece of luan plywood about the size of the table so it would support the piece I was cutting.




Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

As far as reducing chip out, stick with the reverse tooth or double reverse tooth blades. I use the two way flying dutchman blades which is basically a blade that has every third tooth reversed,  from http://www.mikesworkshop.com/, you can't beat Mike's service or his blades. He also has an Ultra reverse blade that a lot of scrollers swear by, I know Fred Wilson uses them. My saw has a removable insert in the table for blade access so I make a zero clearance insert out of 1/8" baltic birch for it. The easiest is like Wayne said use a playing card or old business card. The packing tape trick is supposed to help lube the blade and reduce burn. I put blue painters tape on the wood before I glue the pattern on, it makes peeling it off sooo much easier. Some people use packing tape rather than the blue tape for the same thing, but I find it leaves some glue residue on the wood. Some woods will chip out easier than others too, I know the red oak and birch plywood that Lowe's carries chips out on the back side a lot worse than baltic birch does. 




Greg
Scroll Saw forum host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

Greg


I use the blue tape also. What a difference it makes in peeling the pattern off. There also blogs about using using plastic pop bottles for zero clearance but I have found playing cards the easiest and cheapest way to go. I have read about plating the whole top of the saw, but to me it seemed cumbersome and not necessary. 




Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

I am completely sold on Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades.  No fuzz on either the top OR the bottom - AND - extremely smooth sides.



GO Mike Moorlach  77.gif77.gif77.gif






Fred
aka Pop's Shop
www.pops-shop.com
EX-21
'Soooooo many patterns - sooooo little time'

Wayne, I'm not sure what you mean by plating the whole top of the saw. If you're talking about what lewis mentioned about the auxillary table, I have one that I made using some 1/4" paneling with the slick surface like you use in bathrooms, can't remember what it's called. Anyway I use it when I'm working on larger pieces that need support. I use 2 sided carpet tape to hold it in place. I rarely use it but like a lot of tools it sure is handy when ya need it. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow and post it. 





Greg
Scroll Saw forum host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

  • Author

You guys are giving me and everybody else a lot of good info. 41.gif41.gif


Instead of fighting it, I'm starting to find it relaxing cutting out "simple" patterns! I'm having good luck now that I've found some of my problems. Back in the "dark ages" when I first started playing with the scroll saw, I just used carbon paper to mark the pattern. Now I'm using painters tape and spray glue for the patterns. Works great. Been using Olsen blades because I work at an ACE hardware store and can get them cheap. Slowing down and letting the blade do it's thing has helped also.


A lot to learn yet, but I'm trying more difficult patterns and having fun with it.


Thanks lots and keep the suggestions coming.




Harry Brink
Bulldog Woodworking
Montana

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