Ok guys and ladies, after spending upwards of $75 on this that or the other finish trying to find one that works well with bottle stoppers and bowls, emphasis on stoppers. I am at a complete loss.

I am trying to find the best all around finish for bottle stoppers and bowls since I am making both now. I am having a very hard time tracking down anything that gives a reasonably high gloss that isn't dulled off the first time its touched.

At first i tried friction polishes because it was what I was at one point using for pens until I found that it didn't work well for those either. Now i have about a 12 oz paper weight sitting on the shelf disguised as friction polish, because i have no use for it. i have tried bees wax same result, Tung oil, Same.

I'm tired of spending time/money on what DOESN'T work, and would like to know what DOES work.

Thanks

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Charles Nicholls
Site Host
moffet61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
Proud Supporter of the Wounded Warrior Project

Polyurethane is the most durable finish, but if  the item is to have food contact then the best is to use a salad bowl finish. No mater what you use, when handled the finish will dull due to the oils on your hands. Periodic maintenance is required depending on how often it's handled. There is no ONE TYPE FITS ALL solution. Many people use a CA finish with mixed results but even that will dull over time with use. Do a google search, there's tons of info and techniques for different finishes.

This stuff is pretty good-

http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2083644/35704/general-finishes-wood-turners-finish-8oz.aspx

You can also get it in 2 oz. bottle if you want to just try it. Works best on tight pore woods (maple, walnut, etc.). Takes a bunch of layers but holds up.

Check out this blog for an example- http://www.thepatriotwoodworker.com/profiles/blogs/how-to-make-your-own-ice-cream-scoop. Frank uses it for the ice cream scoop handle.

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Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

No mater what finish you use if the prep work is lacking the finish will be as well. General finishes has great products but like anything it depends on the application and the end use of the item your finishing. There's also a big difference between finishes that penetrate Vs finishes that are built up. A lot of the info on the net is first hand so I wouldn't discount it. 

Don't be so touchy I wasn't criticizing your work just stating a fact. Also sometimes you have do a little research instead of having the info spoon fed.

Charles,

This is one of the first stoppers I made. Purple heart and maple. It had a couple of coats of Minwax gloss oil based poly. It has been in use for many years. Tried to get the picture to show it still shines.

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Lew Kauffman-
Wood Turners Forum Host

Time traveler. Purveyor of the world's finest custom rolling pins!

Sorry if you've taken it that way. You ask a question and I answered it. Also take your own advise and don't be condescending when someone takes the time to reply and you don't like the answer.

I have read that oil based poly is food safe- once dried. I have used both water and oil based poly for much of my stuff. The thing I don't care for, with water based stuff, is that it raises the grain. So no matter how smooth the sanded finish, you have to resand after the first application of water based stuff. Ideally you should sand between each application of water based finish to get a good "grab" by the next coat because water based finishes don't dissolve into the previous coat, like oil based finishes do.

If the piece I am making is going to be used by children, I always use water based finishes- just to be on the safe side.

Many turners like the wipe on poly. I've never had much success with it. Maybe I'm too impatient and not use enough coats. I just never can get the shine that others seem to be to achieve.

For my salt cellars, I do not apply any finish to the inside of the bowl. Salt would probably erode the finish anyway. I have a beautiful coffee scoop given to me by an extremely creative turner. It  has no finish at all. She said she prefers to leave the coffee polish the scoop through use.

I guess what I'm saying is that sometimes good old oil based Poly will fill the bill and sometimes maybe the project will be perfect without any additional finish beyond sanding.

Charles Nicholls said:

Thanks Lew, I have seen bottle stoppers made of wood that shine a lot better too and that is basically what I am trying to achieve here. Still love those mixed woof pieces.

Lewis Kauffman said:

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Charles Nicholls
Site Host
moffet61@att.net
http://www.nichollswoodworks.com
Proud Supporter of the Wounded Warrior Project
and The NRA

Thanks guys

Arlin The only reason I want to put a finish at all on these is 1 i want to seal the wood to keep any wine or spirits out of the grain and 2 for the shine it can give , making the wood grain really pop out at you

Arlin Eastman said:

I really agree with what Lew said here

"I guess what I'm saying is that sometimes good old oil based Poly will fill the bill and sometimes maybe the project will be perfect without any additional finish beyond sanding."

 

There are times when making a box I put no finish on it at all due to the beauty of the wood and I also like the natural look sometimes.

That  is why working with wood is so nice, a person can do almost anything.  ANY finish takes Time to make awesome.  Sometimes it looks good the first time and after the 6th time it is flawless.  I really do think you should buy some DVDs on woodfinishing or look on the net which has a wealth of info

 

Arlin

I use spray Lacquer quite often and have had myself pleased when I did.   High gloss, satin etc. depending on your preference.

Poly works well also and protects the surface very well.  Small items such as pen and pencils, I use CA glue a lot.  As Mr. William Young suggests, I put a dab of BLO  "boiled linseed oil " with it and I have been very satisfied.

There are so many finishes available, just keep learning and using and you will find what works best for you.

Thanks Leo, The main thing that I was getting at, is that I don't have a lot of money to try this that or the other thing, but mainly, I have seen Wooden bottle stopper heads that have a near glass finish. I have been trying to figure out how it's done but as yet have been unsuccessful.

The closest I get to that on pens is by using CA glue which i great and I love it, I just don't know that it's food safe to use on bottle stoppers.

Thanks again.

Leo Pedersen said:

I use spray Lacquer quite often and have had myself pleased when I did.   High gloss, satin etc. depending on your preference.

Poly works well also and protects the surface very well.  Small items such as pen and pencils, I use CA glue a lot.  As Mr. William Young suggests, I put a dab of BLO  "boiled linseed oil " with it and I have been very satisfied.

There are so many finishes available, just keep learning and using and you will find what works best for you.

That's the info I needed thanks Arlin.

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Charles Nicholls

Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project and the NRA

Charles,

The more I think about it, the more I believe CA might be OK for bottle stoppers- in reference to the food safe topic. The stopper never really comes in contact with the wine/food. The metal/rubber portion of the stopper isolated the wooden section from the liquids. If you were using the cork/dowel type stopper, it may be more of a problem but I think you would be safe with the stoppers you are using.

Sorry, I wrote this before I saw Arlin's post

Charles Nicholls said:

Thanks Leo, The main thing that I was getting at, is that I don't have a lot of money to try this that or the other thing, but mainly, I have seen Wooden bottle stopper heads that have a near glass finish. I have been trying to figure out how it's done but as yet have been unsuccessful.

The closest I get to that on pens is by using CA glue which i great and I love it, I just don't know that it's food safe to use on bottle stoppers.

Thanks again.

Leo Pedersen said:

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Charles Nicholls

Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project and the NRA

Hey Thanks Lew I was thinking that too but needed other opinions before I went forward. So the next one i do will have a CA finish and we'll se what it looks like then

Thanks

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Charles Nicholls

Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project and the NRA