August 8, 201213 yr Starting a new project, I am for some reason fascinated with handplanes. I have decide to build a wooden handplane. Does anyone know of a good video on using a handplane to mill a piece of rough stock. I have done a lot of reading but am having trouble. Working with a piece of mahogany. Bought a new Woodriver #6 plane. Is this the proper plane to start with?
August 8, 201213 yr A No.6 will do fine Dan, one of most common errors new hand plane enthusiasts make is they try to hog off too much. But lets start with a few questions first.Since you have had your plane did you sharpen it?And if so how did you sharped it?Thanks DanJohn MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Wounded Warrior Project and Homes For Our Troops
August 8, 201213 yr Author No, I thought being a Woodriver it would be sharp right out of the box but I am thinking I should go ahead and sharpen it anyway.
August 8, 201213 yr Yes sir Dan, sharpen that baby. The best planes should be honed out of the box. Let us know when your done with that, give it a whirl after you hone it up and let us know what your outcome us. If your still getting un expected results is is more then likely adjustments and use. We'll help ya along. Let us know when it's nice and sharp! I do think you are up to speed on sharpening correct? I remember awhile back you were asking about sharpening.Dan Shuflin said:No, I thought being a Woodriver it would be sharp right out of the box but I am thinking I should go ahead and sharpen it anyway.John MorrisThe Patriot WoodworkerProud Supporter of Wounded Warrior Project and Homes For Our Troops
August 9, 201213 yr Author Okay, the #6 is sharp. I used a 1000, 4000, then a 8000 stone. The #6 was sharp but now it is really sharp. I am trying to mill a 3" piece of mahogany. I think my problem was I was not taking enough material off. One side was constantly low with a square until I started taking a little more material off.I have read lots and watched lots of videos, I know that you work the high side until everything is even. I think I just need more practice. John, am I on the right track here?
August 9, 201213 yr check the square of your bladepull the blade out and make sure your sharpened edge is square to the side of the blade. Then when it is put in the plane the blade e must stay square to the bottom bed of the planeyou can hold and pass the plane at a little bit of an angle to the wood but it should cut and ride on the front bed of the plane BEFORE the blade. By the way if the front face is flat and even you can use a guide like the kind on a rabet plane to guide off the side to start the proper surface square to the side.probably clear as mud but message me if you need toÂ
August 9, 201213 yr  To get a shaving like this..I had the chipbreaker about 2mm back from the edge of that sharp iron.   Mouth wasn't adjustable, so I slid it forward the frog itself forward a bit.    I mated the chipbreaker to the iron, did not have any gaps between the iron and the chipbreaker.  They need to be a nice close fit. While i do "polish" the irons... i don't go for a mirror type of look.   Breaker as well, just well fited to the iron, and smooth on top.  As for them Block planes, that don't have a chipbreaker to worry about?   Just make sure the "bed" where the iron sits is claen and smooth, no rust or dirt,   Less chatter that way. Sharpen the iron up ,and install.    just use only enough edge to make a shaving... i use just sandpaper, and a few old stones.    To each their own way... 'and may the road raise up to meet ye'
August 9, 201213 yr A #6 is a bit large, but will work..I use mine mainly as a "jointer" for edges.   I use the #7 as well, but for the faces of panels.. but, maybe the best "all-around" handplane would be the #5 sized jacks.   They can surface a board, using a "cambered" iron ( looks like a smile on the edge) by going at a diagonal to the grain. they can smooth a surface as well, with an edge that is straight and square.    And they can Joint an edge like the bigger jointers, but at 14' long, the boards would need to be a little shorter.    I seem to have a couple jacks in the shop.  Just rebuilt one, in fact... So, it depends on how big a plane you want to muscle around.  Jacks run from 13.5" up to 15" long, counting the #5-1/2s.   A #6 Fore plane runs right around 18' long.  They are also wider than the normal Jack planes, a jack is usually 2" wide in the cutter, a #6 is about 2-3/8" wide in the cutter.   Those BIG #8s are @ 2-5/8" wide in the cutter area.   There is a "Junior Jack' out there ( I don't have one, YET) that runs about 12" long, and uses a #3 size iron @ 1-3/4" wide.  Little critter, more ike a long smoother.   Closest I have to that one is a Craftsman #3, @ 10" long.   It is longer than all of my #4s.  Just depends on how much weight you want to wrestle around. 'and may the road raise up to meet ye'
August 10, 201213 yr  A look at the Biggems in my shop..A #6c.  18" long, with a 2-3/8" iron.  The "c" stands for corrugated, or grooved sole ( just hype about sliding better) Next, also with that groovy sole is the BIg Boy, the Bailey #8c Jointer, all 10 pounds worth, It was even longer (24") than the test track.   There is a "Super jack plane", a #5-1/2.   The older ones used a 2-1/4" wide cutter, mine uses the 2'3/8' iron like the #6, and #7s do.   Length is just over 15".  This one is a Union #5A, same size as a Stanley #5-1/2.   Tuned up, and ready to work.  Next time out, i show off the litle guys.   First things first, get out there and make some shavings... 'and may the road raise up to meet ye'
August 10, 201213 yr Author Thanks guys for all the help. The idea of checking the blade with a square is great, I never even thought of it. I do struggle using the adjustment lever.
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