Soon I'll be applying veneer to the faces of our kitchen cabinets so I'm looking for all the advice I can get.  The veneer is unbacked 1/10 red oak and I plan to use Titebond Cold Clamp Veneer Glue on it.  Anyone have any application and clamping advice?  The faces are 1 3/4" wide and I'm a bit curioius how to evenly apply the glue.  Help me out gang.

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

I use a rubber ink roller and it spreads the glue evenly. If your venering face frames i'd use a caul with edge clamps. For the doors a vacume bag is the best bet.

I got my roller from MICHAELS. It's 5" wide and cleans very well as long as you don't let the glue dry on it otherwise I have to soak it in hot soapy water depending on how long it sits.

Doors will be solid RP read oak so just the faces are an issue now Mike.

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Where ar all my heros?

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

You might want to look into vacuum bagging if you have any complex geometries.  Even flat surfaces benefit from the over all even pressure of vacuum bagging.

Absent that. when I need to cover a large flat surface with pressure I use a thin-ish layer  ('bout1/4" thick) of any  medium density foam between the clamping board and the pieces being glued.  IT tends to distribute the pressure out across those little spots that might not stand proud and on flat work a couple thousandths is proud.

How's the laminating going Ron?

Ron

Having done a lot of veneering in my last job we always used a spray on contact cement and a roller. Spray both pieces, let dry to tacky state, carefully join pieces and roll out any bubbles. best part no clamping needed.

This is the approach I would take. Simply because of the size of your pieces.

Other wise you could stack clamp them using wax paper in between  the pieces to prevent gluing them together . This works well if you are applying veneer only to one side as you can clamp veneered faces together, using the material to put even pressure along the whole the surface. also will reduce the number of clamps needed. The downside to this method is making sure everything stays aligned. 

Either method can be done successfully with standard  commonly available wood working tools.

Maybe these ideas will be of some help.

good luck 

russ

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No greater Loves than God, Family, Friends, country, the sight of flying chips and the smell of saw dust.

Russ, is contact cemment suitable for non-backed veneer?

 

Mike, I'm still a couple of weeks out on the veneer.  Just gathering info now.

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Ron 

Contact cement can be used for veneering by spraying, rolling, or brushing, although spraying is the most recommended method.  The main point is to follow the manufactures instructions on drying time. Some products need it completely dry, while others want some tackiness. We always used a 3m product  that required a full dry time. Just be careful to line it up right the first time.

Here is a troubleshooting guide for using contact cement. hope it can help in some way.

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/troubleshoot.html

Let me know what you decide to do.

russ

Ron Dudelston said:

Russ, is contact cemment suitable for non-backed veneer?

 

Mike, I'm still a couple of weeks out on the veneer.  Just gathering info now.

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

go to the dollar store and pick up a small roller and some sleeves for spreading the glue.

And go to a formica supplier and get a J roller to help push out any bubbles.

And yes, it will work with contact cement too.

Thanks Mike and Russ.  By the way, this veneer is 1/10 or .100 thick.  Still no issue using contact cement?

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Still no issues that come to mind.  

Really wish you the best of luck on this project.

Ron Dudelston said:

Thanks Mike and Russ.  By the way, this veneer is 1/10 or .100 thick.  Still no issue using contact cement?

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Hey Ron,

Just checking in, Wondering how the veneering project is going. Might have missed some post on here, have not been on a whole lot lately.

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No greater Loves than God, Family, Friends, country, the sight of flying chips and the smell of saw dust.

Actually, the veneering is on hold until I finished the doors and they are finished.  Probably mid October.

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Ron Dudelston
Site Administrator

Above and Beyond WoodWorks

Saint Roy has a video on the web site where he does some veneering  and applies the hide glue to Both sides of the piece being veneered.

The idea being that using glue on both sides prevents the thin wood from warping.  then after it's  cured they just use a scraper to  remove it.   He says it does not interfere with staining or finishing.

If you are applying your veneer with a vacuum press or with some other press you might not need to do this.