I'm in the process of  laminating wood and acrylic for a pen blank. The wood is 1/4" thick and I will be edge joining the wood to slightly larger than 1/4" thick acrylic. In order to insure that both surfaces are flush after the joint is cured, my thought is to run the sub assembly through my router table using a flush trim bit to level the acrylic with the wood. I have never attempted to route acrylic. I will only be taking off a very thin amount and will use several passes if needed. I'm wondering if there will be chip out on the acrylic. Normally I'd just run a test piece but I only have a small amount of acrylic and don't want to waist it if I don't have to. Thanks for any insight you folks might have.

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www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

Mike, this probably won't be much help, but when I scroll acrylic, (which is not that often) I slow the speed down to avoid heat buildup. 

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Greg
Scroll Saw forum host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

I wonder if it would help to double side tape a piece of scrap wood to the exposed side of the acrylic if that's even possible. My thinking is that if the blade doesn't get to that exposed edge, then it may not be able to tear it out.

Is this a project that needs to be done right away or is it something that can wait a few days?

I have some scrap Corian in different sizes that I could send you that is 1/2"ish thick that you could test on. Only problem is that I can't send it til Monday. I would even test the theory for you but I don't have double sided tape.

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Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRA