Good morning folks.
I'll soon be starting a couple briefcases to hold pistols. The frame will be maple. I'd like to make the sides from solid maple also. However, I'm a bit concerned about wood movement.
Rabbets in the frame(s) to receive the side panels is the option I prefer.
Since the lid and the "box" will both be lined with 1" thick compressible foam, I thought about adding a 1X1/2 strip of wood at the bottom of the rabbet for screws to hold the side panes. The screw holes in the strip would be elongated to allow movement of the panels.
In your opinion(s), would this be an acceptable method? Are there better methods?(I'm sure there are) 
I really do not want to use veneer over plywood. Since these are for my sons, I know I'll be asked to sand out some dings and scratches. Veneers are not friendly to that kind of treatment.
Any and all help would be thankfully welcomed. 

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

I think you could build a box with the sides back and front with either finger or dovetail joints and have floating panels similar to a raised panel for the top and bottom and to allow for expansion insert thin foam tubes (i believe they're called space balls) in the dados to prevent rattling. Once constructed cut the box in half along the front back and sides and that will give you the briefcase look your looking for. With this you'd keep the weight down and not use any mechanical fasteners. IMHO.

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www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

Gene I did these shadow boxes and miter corners. I know for what you are talking about you would need something stronger but I think a floating panel like in a door for the top would be fine. Just leave a little room for the expansion.

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John Moody
Site Administrator


John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

Thanks Mike.

The frame and panel method is a good idea. I'll be using box joints, so some stopped routing would be necessary. I like finger joints for this because of the tremendously more gluing surfaces. Unfortunately, I don't own a finger joint router bit. 

For F&Ps, I use rubber screening cord in the grooves. Poor man's "Space Balls". 

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

I do finger joints on my table saw and they come out very even and symmetrical. A finger joint jig is very easy to build. Here is a simple jig. http://www.cabinetmaking.com/pages/fingerjig.htm

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www.thepatriotwoodworker.com Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops

I don't have anything to add here, other than the fact that I'll be watching to see what you come up with Gene, I wish I knew about building boxes like this but i don't other than what's already been suggested.

I'll Be Watching Muahahaha

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Charles Nicholls
Site Host
nicholls61@att.net
Proud supporter of The Wounded Warrior Project, Homes For Our Troops and the NRA

http://www.etsy.com/shop/nichollswoodworks

I know it's popular to bed guns in foam these days but I'm a big fan of frenching.  French fitting  also offers the box maker some structure  to mount the sides and bottoms.

This is what I'm referring to

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353946

All the accoutrements like extra magazines and rounds also get form fitting compartments

Hi Cliff,

I've made a few Frenchies. The box in my avatar is one. It's lined with leather.

The reason this case will be foam only (except for a box for cartridges and one for cleaning supplies) is that my son hardly ever keeps a particular piece longer than a year. This one is for a 45. Heck, he may trade for a Baretta 9 mm, next month....who knows?

If he's ever lucky enough to obtain a sweet old pistol like the one you referenced, then a Frenchie would be in the works.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton