After Talking with John Morris this morning I decided to do a step by step blog of the creation of one of my intarsia projects.  I will be doing this in 2 parts, BOTH will be on this thread.  Part 1 the cutting, Part 2 the shaping, sanding, and finishing.

The pattern I chose for this is Bruce Worthington's stylized eagle.  You can find this and many of his other patterns at www.intarsia.net

Step 1:  Pick a pattern.

As you can see this is not a small project.  13 1/2" x 19" 36 pieces, this probably is not a good one to start out on do to the V cuts, but if you are good with a scroll saw I say go for it.

Step 2: decide what wood you will use.  You ca do this before or as you go.  I tend to do both.  I'll figure out my main woods then change up accent pieces later.  In this photo I have some walnut, cypress, yellowheart, wenge, Basswood, and Aspen. Before it was over I changed out the walnut board for one with more interesting grain and coloring, didnt use the cypress at all, and added in some Maple.  Also in the pic is a color photo Bruce sends with his patterns to give you an idea of the finished piece.

Step 3:  Preping the wood and gluing up the pattern.

Due to the size of the pattern you have only a few options, you can have the pattern photocopies at an office store then cut it up, saving the original, or my method cause I don't have a store close, fold that sucker up and use my own photo copier/printer  then when you have ever piece on page (even if it means 1 piece on a page try and keep the pieces whole so you  don't have to line anything up) and make 5 or 6 copies of each page and set those originals to the side so you can make more copies if needed.

I have a set area to adhere the pattern to wood.  this carpet protector flipped over so the pegs stick up is perfect for spraying the glue on and allowing me to pick it up with out tearing the paper.

This is the start of my project.  after I glue up the pattern and place on the wood I cover them with clear packing tape.  This does 3 things for me. 1 cools the blade there by keeping the wood from burning.  2 helps hold the pattern down should the glue start to give and the pattern lift, and 3 MUCH easier for the dust to blow off the tape than the paper that will have some glue residue on it.  Some people put the tape under the pattern.  I will do this if it is a very open grained wood to the the spray glue something better to stick to.  Use the grain direction and patterns to your advantage.  Most patterns will come with lines or arrows to give the designers idea of the way the grain should be orientated. This is a good idea to follow but if you have a piece that has an unusual pattern or maybe is spalted go with your gut and try it. Worst cast you need to cut a new piece.  I changed the recommended woods from his pattern to what I wanted.  Even went and changed the walnut i was going to use to a different piece that had hits of red and purple in it, while subtle it will make a big effect on the over all piece.  And I hope for the good.

Step 4 Start the cutting.

With intarsia it is very important to stay on the line. I try to stay in the center of it rather than to the left or right.  When cutting I will often come in to a piece from different angles following the line before the part and past it.  What I mean is, if you look at the piece int he lower center of my view in the pic above.  unless I'm very good at turns and able to stay on the lines its best to follow it past the part. then come back from the correct angle.  It will take longer and you may have a few more small pieces of scrap but its worth it.  It would take 7 cuts to make the one piece using this method.  This helps to ensure a tight fit.  Some gap will happen and mostly they are hid by the shaping later.  But if there is to much it will take away from the finished item.  Also be sure your blade is straight. if it is off even a degree or too your parts will not line up well.

When I cut I like to try and cut all of the parts from 1 type of wood at a time, rather than go back and forth.  above is the walnut part, minus one piece I over looked and had to go back and cut.  You can see the almost waves of colors in this piece of walnut.  Makes me think of the sheen on the feathers as light reflects off it. 

A word of warning here for any that start to do this form of wood working.  You will look at wood very differently from now on.  When you make a table or turn a bowl you definitely look at grain and color but you know what the item is going to be and hope the grains hold true in your final project.  With intarsia you will see a board and suddenly think.. feathers.....water.....tree bark.....fur.  the texture, the grain, the color, the imperfections that become the perfect accent.   And suddenly 2 types of reddish colored wood wont be enough. you will want to have Paduk, Bloodwood, WRC, Aromatic cedar, reddish cypress, Redwood, rose wood.   It doesn't take a lot of what I call my accent colors but like a painter with a pallet you want to have the most options.  As you will see I used 3 different white woods in my eagle to give it the most variety.  Do you need all these?  Nah, maybe of the best only use western red cedar and a few others, but the colors while varying in darkness and shade still feel a little monotone.  I have over 40 types of wood now.  It has taken me years to get to this point. Most of it in this last year.  I have stacks of spalted walnut and maple and others just waiting for that perfect sky or water scene.  Maybe it is just me and a few others but when I see a board its not a board its now a piece of a huge picture, just waiting for me to add it in.

At this point I have cut out all the parts of the basswood and dry fitted them.  If you look at the top you will see a but of a gap.  When I went back to add the forgotten walnut piece my blade was getting dull and I had a slight angle from pushing to hard right on the bottom.  it kept the piece from fitting just right.  Fortunately I was able to trim it a shade and make it go right in.  I was lucky.  If I had over done it I would needed to cut a whole new piece.  Now with 2 colors added even with out any shaping done the picture is starting to take shape.  This is the most exciting time for me.  The time when you are starting to breath life into your art.

Maple for the area near the eye and a single feather, and the aspen for the head and farthest most feathers.  3 white woods, but for me at least it adds more detail and less washed out than if I used all the same white color.  And I'll admit I love to see how many different woods I can get into a single project.  I aim for 7-10 at a minimum.  And have had as many as 32.

Final woods cut and pieces dry fitted.  Now I can go back and replace any I feel a need to.  I didn't for this one.  Any minor flaws will be covered when I do my shaping. I opted out of using my cypress and went with yellow heart for all the yellow.  While this might go slightly against what I just said about variety I wanted something that was sharp and crisp for the beak.  Helps also that its hard and wont indent easy as its on the outside edge.   I used some mahogany for the dark near the eye.  This way it complements the walnut, but this piece had some flecking on it that made me think tiny feathers.  So I get to add my other wood here.  And wenge for the pupil and nostril.  Stuff is expensive but as I only use it for accent 1 board lasts a long time.  7 woods used.  Took me about 4 hours to prep and cut this pattern.  Next step is the shaping.  Part 2 of this photo blog coming tonight or tomorrow.  Check back  I'll add it as a reply to this post. 

If you have any questions at all up to this point ask away.  Taking a break and plan to start and hopefully finish the shaping and sanding tonight before work.

Thanks a bunch, Joe. Looking forward to the next set of instructions.

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

That was great Joe, thanks for sharing it with us. 

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Greg
Site host

http://www.thesawdustfactoryga.com/

Part 2, shaping sanding and glue up. 

here are the tools i use to do my shaping.  I have a 3 inch diameter drum sander.  80 grit paper on it.  90 pct of my shaping iis done with this.  Many use dremal tools or other rotary tools and I have nothing against this. This is my only real option right now.  the belt sander for stock removal  if a piece needs to be shorter than the rest sometimes its easier to use this rather than shim it all up.  Sandflee,  normally not used but sometimes I smooth the bottom of parts with it. and the router.  I use then for trimming the backers and shims.  also loose higher grits of sandpaper to smooth each part. Not pictured is my mob sander I'll use at the end.

Just a picture of me shaping a part to start.  I roughly round over the edges,  you can easily take to much off. but as with any artist  you are more aware of it than others.  Still I try and go sparingly.  Many intarsia artisans just round over the edges. I like to add contours and such when able.  the more detail you add the more beautiful if will become and if you are a seller like me the more you can get for them.   Every piece will go thru this process. Careful cause it will rip the piece right out of your hands and it may go flying across the room.  And if your shop looks like mine that means a hunt is about to happen.  Also watch your fingers.  I like my skin, the sandpaper doesn't.

First several pieces shaped. if I'm happy with the fit ill take my 220 grit and hand sand them to smooth out any edges left by the drum sander. If you look the white feather is higher than the brown one.  Since this was not the look I wanted I went back and sanded it more on the drum sander.  Many people mark with a pencil where they need to remove stock to. I don't.  I always lose the pencil so I just go back and forth a few times. You will develop an eye.  The amount of curve and layering is totally up to you,  More or less there is no wrong way, but I have found taking the extra time to make it fairly even is very appreciated by customers. from a distance it wouldn't be noticed but up close they are seen and may make or break a sale.

The center part all shaped and sanded.  I did these because the pattern recommended a 1/4 inch riser behind them to add dimension.  I could go about this 3 ways.  I could put a shim under each piece,  fastest and uses up scrap but leaves gaps when gluing up to a backer in the final process.  Not had an issue with this but the more connected the better I feel.  Second. glue a shim the same shape and size as the piece. This works well most of the time but you either have to cut out a piece on the scroll saw and glue up or you can glue the piece to larger piece of plywood then route around the edges with a trim bit.  I prefer the router method but do to the V notches its not the best choice to do this for each individual piece.  Choice 3 and the one I did with this one glues all the raise pieces together and on the backer then route around the entire part to be raised.  See the second photo below for my example.

I prefer Tight-bond 3 wood glue. Great hold. waterproof and sets up quickly.  Agan this is where many people differ. some edge glue, other only on the bottom.  I do both.  At times I'll use just hot glue, but I prefer to use TB when ever time allows.  I have many small projects that I only use hot glue on.  Try different ways ans see what works best for you.

Here is that same part I was talking about a few moments ago all glued up to it backer that will be used as a riser.    Next step is to route around the edges. For this I have a 1/4 trim bit.  Lets me have a flush edge.

Nice smooth solid backer for the riser. No need to worry about part of it not bonding to the main backer. 

You can see here the down side of the router method with a project like this with V notches.  The round bit cant fit all the way back.  IF this was the main backer and not the riser it would not be a problem. Its so small its not noticeable. With the riser however this has to be eliminated or your next pieces that are meant to be lower will not be flush as part will hang on the over lap.  This will cause other parts not to fit the further out you go.  So you need to remove the excess wood. 

to remove this excess wood I simply take the backer to the drum sander and sand out the area that stick out to far.  If you end up in the wood its ok cause you have the rest glued to the backer.  once you have it down you can trim it out with a knife if needed.  fast and simple.  Most of the time you will not have to do this more than a few times.  But with the pattern there were so many.  I still feel this was my best option.  Now with this done I can start to shape the other parts. 

Here is the rest shaped up. They are not glued to anything as these will be adhered directly to the main backer around the other part I have shown you on the riser..

Sometimes you have parts that need to be shaped together, and you will not with you have rounded edges between each piece.  A good example is an eye.  you can glue these pieces together and then let it dry and shape or as I did here. get some double sided carpet tape.  put on a scrap piece of wood and use it to keep the piece together and even while you sand it.  The tape is in the flooring department of most home improvement stores and will cost about 10 dollars a roll but even at the rate I do these that roll will last a year.  and its so handy.  It really has a solid grip too.

Here is the piece all glued to its main backer.  I over hung the feathers on the right side to make trimming with the router a little easier.  It wasn't needed but I opted to do this.  It will not take away from the stability of the project. but will leave a small gap between it and the wall that you would hardly notice.

with the backer all cut out I give it one more over with my sanding mop.  just to soften the edges a bit more and it hit anything I missed.  If you don't have one its not a problem.  you can always wipe it with some 220 or 320 grit.    Be sure to blow off any dust with your air compressor or shop vac before you do your finish.

And here it is all ready for its clear coats.  some sanding sealer and a few coats of lacquer and he will be ready to hang. Tomorrow I'll add photos of him totally finished.  But this is how my intarsia are made from start to finish.  If you have any questions of comments drop me a line, if you would like to see more of my completed work please check out my website at www.the-cut-above.com.  I just revamped it and still adding photos but the intarsia page is finished and you can see most everyone I have ever made.

Joe, we are very pleased you have shared with us. That is an incredible photo blog series. Questions anyone?

I was wondering about the gaps and fit between the pieces Joe, but as you stated, any flaws will be covered up by the shaping, I think it's more of a case that the eye is drawn away from the flaws with the shaping right?  It is beautiful work and what a satisfying process to see this come together, thanks Joe.

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker
Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops and Wounded Warriors Project

Thats exactly it. And because the shaping will cast some shadows the gaps will blend in.

Joe,

I have a pattern that is just a flat drawing with no instructions or shading showing height differences. 

Do you have any methods of converting it? I was thinking trial and error.

It's symmetrical, so I'd only have to do one side worth of trials.  

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Gene
'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

In that case its up to you what ever you think best. I have several like that. Typically the grain will go long ways. If you can see a pic of what ever the pattern is that will help. I go back and forth to get colors as close as possible

Joe it's awesome work sir. Where do you purchase the sanding mops from, and can the mops be used for removal with a lower grit?

Joe Adams said:

In that case its up to you what ever you think best. I have several like that. Typically the grain will go long ways. If you can see a pic of what ever the pattern is that will help. I go back and forth to get colors as close as possible

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John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker
Proud Supporter of Homes For Our Troops and Wounded Warriors Project

this is the sanding mop made by the same people that make the sand flee system.  But you get it thru Sears.    they have it it as low as 80 grit,  I would not recommend it for the shaping but it is great to smoothing stuff.  They are expensive to start with normally but can be refilled and if used properly can last over 2 years.  as much as I use it I dont think it will last that long with me LOL

http://www.sears.com/tools-power-tool-accessories-sandpaper-abrasives/s-1021218?keyword=sandflee+sanding+mop&viewItems=25&sLevel=2&autoRedirect=true&redirectType=CAT_REC_PRED

here is the link.

Thanks Joe. It's a floral skull for the Mexican "Day of the Dead" celebration.

Joe Adams said:

In that case its up to you what ever you think best. I have several like that. Typically the grain will go long ways. If you can see a pic of what ever the pattern is that will help. I go back and forth to get colors as close as possible

Excellent work!!! I need to give this a try sometime. Thanks for sharing.

Impressive work Joe! Great blog with great photos and detailed techniques. It takes great skills, talent and patience to create those wonderful intarsia art pieces. 

www.sawblade.com

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To know but not to do is not yet to know.
WWW.SAWBLADE.COM

Great work. Keep it up!

Chris Mobley

www.cmobleydesigns.com