I wanted a shielded hollower.    DARN those things are expend-O-licious   and I'm a cheap SOB.

I looked at a shielded hook and couldn't get with the idea of the replacement cutter cost and never found anyone who spoke about how long the cutter's last.

I looked at the Sorby and  The Rolly Munro.  They ain't cheap.  I can see the cost considering that  serious mass production is  not applicable so they are made in small batches and that costs money.

Folks seemed to like the Munro tool a lot so I set my sights on that.

 

Hmmm

I can't try it our yet coz  the tap I ordered to install the carbide insert  won't ship till after this monday.

 

The middle link

Using my  itty bitty Elgin lathe as a milling machine

Is it a lathe or a miller? I can't decide

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAcQxmZIAE8

 

 

 

OOOPS  Snapped a tap

Gol Durn Metrics I never work metrics  and read the chart wrong and   drilled undersize

Well I got the busted tap out.  That's always a challenge.

For a while there it was touch and go;  more like hammer and whimper,  but who's telling?

And finally

 

I hope to try it out this coming week.

Failure remains an option.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other than less likely to have a catch, are there other advantages to this type of setup?

Other than less likely to have a catch, are there other advantages to this type of setup?

 

Well the shielded hollower comes in a couple of flavors  from the different manufacturers

The goal of most is to provide a slicing action much like you get when you  roll you spindle gouge. The problem solved is the roughness one often ends up with when using a scraper. .  It's hard to sand inside turned hollow forms, so the cleaner the cut the closer to the goal you are.

That's the theory.

Scrapers exert more force on the cut while a slicing cut with the gouge is less so.

So the makers of shielded hollowers  use various tricks:   the traditional hook in the case of the FelxiForme and the Rolly Munroe and the Sorby use an insert that has an up turned edge to get the slicing cut.

The cutter  looks sort of like the Kennametal RPHT-EN  style cutter

An up turned edge is really hard to control as is a traditional hook but coupled with the shield the idea is that you limit the depth of cut to maybe 0.005" or 0.010" to get a delicate shaving and the shield prevents a deeper dig  thus supposedly preventing a catch whole at the same time giving you a cleaner surface than a scraper

 

I am ( as yet)  not  convinced that the adjustable goose-neck is  going to be the Bees knees.  If I find that they things gets knocked loose in use I'll just weld it  in a position  or make a bent tool upon which to mount the cutting head and call it done.

I've though of a couple ways  to stop torque from loosening the  allen screw holding the goose neck links in position.

One is to take a little stock out from around the hole where the allen screw passed.  Maybe a .375 or .4375 spot face would do it  forcing the clamping force to be applied to a larger diameter

Like So:

 

See the little spot face where the through hole for the 1/4-20 button head screw goes?

Relieving the metal from there should force the thing to grip better around the larger diameter instead of where the pressure from the screw  deforms the metal ever so slightly.

 

Another way would be to get a hardened steel coining die and press little teeth in a radial pattern that would mate  the two linkage parts in a locking pattern - -  but I ain't doing that.

 

There is a company selling what they call HIRTH RINGS that would do the trick right well if they have the right size

Edited October 25, 201510 yr by Cliff

Gotcha, Thanks.

I can't get into true hollow turning. Sanding the inside was one of the things I wondered about. Guess I just don't want to spend the $$ for special tools. Besides none of my friends are Vāāse people.

well I put that little spot face into the components and it REALLY makes a difference.

My theory was ( based  on the fact that everything deflects)  that the big flat 7/8" diameter spot-faced  steel in the immediate area in  some diameter around the bolt was deforming in response to the forces applied by tightening the Allan bolt.   It was bulging just a scosh.  

Assuming I was correct, this would cause pressure to be applied to the sandwiched steel surfaces unevenly across the broader area of the flats with the most pressure right around the bolt.  So I relieved the metal there and VIOLA  a little  bit of tightening on the Allan bolt  secures the coupling components much more securely. 

 

Before: I could  tighten the Allan bolt very tightly and then easily loosen the coupling by hand, just  tugging on the gooseneck.  Not so much now.  It's,  lots more secure.

This coming week promises to be a PITA  I gotta go to funerals.   I hate hate hate hate funerals.  I don't want one.  Just shove me overboard somewhere and feed the crabs. 

So I may or not get to try it out.

 

   I hate hate hate hate funerals.  I don't want one.  Just shove me overboard somewhere and feed the crabs. 

Agree with you on that one. Viewings and funerals. I want to remember folks as they were when they were alive.

Told Mimi to spray paint my name on a Hefty trash bag and set me by the curb on trash day. 

Agree with you on that one. Viewings and funerals. I want to remember folks as they were when they were alive.

Told Mimi to spray paint my name on a Hefty trash bag and set me by the curb on trash day. 

Same here about the funerals, they seem to be coming more frequently as I get older. I have to wonder if anyone I know will be left when my time comes. 

 I told the wife to dig a hole, throw me in face first, and tell the world to kiss my _ _ _ goodbye! 

Finished

This is the action of the shield or hood covering the carbide insert

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ti-DoZoblI&feature=youtu.be

https://youtu.be/-Ti-DoZoblI

 

 

This is the very first cut.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bObHhUXazLs

I just had a hunk of maple ( this is endgrain) in the lathe so that's what got cut.

 

Here is a 4 or 5 inch  diameter piece of maple on the lathe  after I shimmed the hood  further from the cutter

 

Nice work! Now I see how the "hood" functions.

 

BTW, your video of the "very first cut" is labeled as private.

just checked it.  It says it's public

 

Works now, R.M.