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Cliff

1 Ph Motor Plate Labeling

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I don't know what these terms mean

tape

ungr'd line

 

Do you?  My goal is to take advantage of the reversible feature with a rotary switch

here's pix

Does it mean they want you to connect these with tape or a wire nut?

 

 

20180604_161940.jpg

20180604_161959.jpg

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1 hour ago, Cliff said:

tape

connect together

1 hour ago, Cliff said:

ungr'd line

neutral..

(un-grounded)

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32 minutes ago, Stick486 said:

connect together

2 hours ago, Cliff said:

ungr'd line

neutral..

(un-grounded)

thanks.   I was sort of sure that "tape" meant to tape it but the motor is not so old that tape would have the preferred connection.  They had wire nuts in the mid 1970s when I bought it.  But "Ungr'd" was a total mystery to me.

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Cliff are you talking about hooking a switch up like this to the reversible motor??IMG_0460.JPG.db63b70801a9cbd0fa0ac7ea31a178cf.JPG

  if this is what you intend to use, I'll show some more pictures where it took 8 wires going from the switch to the motor...as I was changing an old saw in to an over head router set up.IMG_0461.JPG.78c22ee5a7d9f9577172294585d58c4c.JPG

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1 hour ago, Cliff said:

I was sort of sure that "tape" meant to tape it but the motor is not so old that tape would have the preferred connection. 

so wire nut it...

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drum switches are your best bet...

P1 is your neutral...

P2 is your line voltage...

 

2013-12-29_135054_old_emerson_and_dayton_drum_switch.jpg.0c938149a80821aad41fde77ed4d95df.jpg        

 

              s-l1000.jpg.56da24aef36be318edbbb5f1a741bcef.jpg 8000790.jpg.56229ab6aa11378ca26ad77fca9d8d70.jpg

Edited by Stick486

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P1 the ungrn'd is the line side of the overcurrent protection and the hot side of the 120v supply is connected to this, the neutral side of the 120v supply is connected to what is marked line where T2,T5,and T4 are conned together.   This is done so if the protector trips the windings would not remain energized.    When connected for 240v the windings will remain energized from the other side of the line when the protector trips.   It will work either way but they properly advise which is best for 120v.    Roly

 

 

image.png

image.png

Edited by Roly

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 I assume the numbers on your drawing are the switch terminal numbers.   What motor wires did you connect to which switch terminal numbers ?     I also assume the numbers on the left side is for one position of the switch and the other side is for the other switch position and the opposite sides are all open when one side is closed and all are open when switch is in the off position,  Correct ?  And a final question is the motor 

connected for 120v or 240v ?    Roly

 What type of switch is it ?  Does not look like a normal motor reversing switch like Stick drew.

Edited by Roly

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On 6/4/2018 at 8:08 PM, Stick486 said:

drum switches are your best bet...

P1 is your neutral...

P2 is your line voltage...

 

2013-12-29_135054_old_emerson_and_dayton_drum_switch.jpg.0c938149a80821aad41fde77ed4d95df.jpg        

 

              s-l1000.jpg.56da24aef36be318edbbb5f1a741bcef.jpg 8000790.jpg.56229ab6aa11378ca26ad77fca9d8d70.jpg

OK  I broke down and got a Dayton Drum switch.  I wanted to use the cheap taiwanese ( $28) cam switch but it just gave me fits when trying to wire it.

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I see the need for two double pole double throw switches.  One switch switches the T5 and T8 back and forth between the pairs of wiresP2-T3 and T2-T4.  and the another to switch the line voltage to either T5 or T8 as needed and then make note which way the switches need to be for FWD or REV.

Edited by HandyDan

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Just one double pole double throw switch.switch.JPG.ab69dbc6c399a043bf0b1937d44eee29.JPG  Roly     CORRECTION   the P2 on the drawing should be P1  as this is the motor overload which would be in     CORRECTION   the P2 on the drawing should be P1  as this is the motor overload which would be in the ungrounded line (hot)  

Edited by Roly

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2 hours ago, Roly said:

Just one double pole double throw switch.switch.JPG.ab69dbc6c399a043bf0b1937d44eee29.JPG  Roly     CORRECTION   the P2 on the drawing should be P1  as this is the motor overload which would be in     CORRECTION   the P2 on the drawing should be P1  as this is the motor overload which would be in the ungrounded line (hot)  

 This is just the reversing switch another on-off switch is needed before L1.    Roly

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well got r up and running.  There's a goofy scraping noise.  I can't quite call it a bearing  but it sounds like there's a  shim stock or bit of roof  flashing rubbing one of the pulleys. But of course there's no such thing. 

I think I want to isolate and solve for that.

 

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