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Jim Hallman

1924 Oliver 133 Jointer

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Sorry guys but I am re-posting this subject again now that I am a member.  I was having trouble getting back to my original non-member post about the 1924 Oliver Jointer topic.

 

Anyway, I acquired a 1924 Oliver 133 jointer and now in the process of restoring it.

 

The cutter head needs to be disassembled  that includes 3 cutter blades which are secured to the cutter block with 3 flat side spanner "screws".  See attached pictures of the cutter head.  The screw spanner holes are 1/4" diameter and are spaced at about 13/16" OC.  There are a lot of knock-off China built adjustable spanner wrenches  but question if they will hold up to do the job  I suspect the machine when it was sold had a wrench included with it.

 

BTW I emailed eaglemachinery-repair.com last week, who deals with antique Oliver machines about the spanner wrench and they have not responded back yet.

 

There was an article on the a website I think about a 1922 Oliver 133 back in 2012 but no followup articles on that since.

 

Anybody out there that has done this?

Cutter head.jpg

close view.jpg

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That takes a normal pin spanner wrench...

they come in in fixed and adjustable...

available everywhere..

 

w8.jpg.12e99908c10ec4196c9966befaa09acd.jpgW7.jpg.42bf19b0fde5d723804fd2b04a488283.jpgW1.jpg.d240562f90addc25d2a398330752444d.jpg

Edited by Stick486

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On 4/16/2018 at 12:58 AM, Jim Hallman said:

The screw spanner holes are 1/4" diameter and are spaced at about 13/16" OC. 

First off, welcome Jim to The Patriot Woodworker...glad you got signed up as a member here and jumped right in with pictures and questions. As @Stick486 noted, 2 pin spanners are available via many outlets depending on what your budget allows.

https://www.grainger.com/category/spanner-wrenches/wrenches/tools/ecatalog/N-167t

 

Fyi...OTC (Owatanna  Tool Company) is a major tool provider of specialty service tools to OEM manufacturers like Ford, Chrysler, Caterpillar, John Deere, Case-IH and numerous others.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6613-Variable-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B000F5JMEA

 

Not knowing what equipment you have access to, but another option is make your own. Since you know the pin OD and center to center distance, get a piece of 1/4" flat steel, drill two 1/4" holes (or slightly over) matching the center to center distance, take two 1/4" bolts preferably Grade 8 (Six radial dashes on the head) but Grade 5 (3 dashes on head) would work.

 

Cut off the thread portion leaving a distance from bottom of the steel stock to fully engage the lock holes plus raising the steel plate slightly above the cutter head. Tack weld the bolt heads to keep the "Pins" from disengaging. Hopefully this makes sense, but if not, I'll be glad to sketch up something and post. I've made numerous "spanners" over the years like this.

 

Depending on how tight these plugs might be, you might be able to remove holding  two 1/4" pin punches in place, insert a pry bar close to the cutter head engaging the pin punches and rotate??? IDK,...but have done that before too.

In all honesty, from the pictures, it appears this plugs have been removed before using a drift punch inserted into the holes at an angle, then tapping with a hammer. IMO, I would only attempt this as a last resort to prevent further distortions to the holes.

 

Again, if none of this makes sense, PM me with your phone number and I'll give you a call.

 

Thanks for the pictures you provided; very helpful! Of course, NOW, we gotta' see pictures of this thing restored.!!:P Besides that, it's also your turn to bring donuts.:lol:

 

Edited by Grandpadave52

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Thanks GrandpaDave for the great post packed full info.  Appreciate it!

 

All what you said makes sense.  Making the spanner sounds like a fun project.

 

The next step with the Jointer is to take the part hardware to have them plated including the knobs.

 

I will be upgrading the Jointer by ordering an Oliver guard from Olivermachinery.net along with their push blocks to save the fingers when operating this beast.

 

When the project is completed, I will send pictures to the forum of the finished product.

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4 minutes ago, Jim Hallman said:

Thanks GrandpaDave for the great post packed full info.  Appreciate it!

Glad to be of some help Jim. Again, your pictures were the key for me. Let me (us) know how we can help along the way too.

 

I love to see old "arn resurrected and put to use. Oliver was a top of the line, commercial company in their heyday.

 

We love pictures here including in-process and even of your "new" spanner tool...never know when someone else will travel down the same pass you're in now.

 

Looking forward to seeing and hearing more about this project and others you have in the works.

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Hi Jim.  Welcome aboard.  OK, just spitballing here.  If this idea is a bad idea, I'm sure someone will jump in and stop you before any damage is done.  If those plugs are tight, and you are considering making your own tool, maybe a "one-armed"  wrench might not do the trick.  You could try using a longer bar, with the pins centered along the length, so that you can get both arms into the job, one pulling and the other pushing.  Just another idea.  Good luck.

 

Tom

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Tom

I have not made the tool yet and didn't want to get anxious and ruin something.

That said, your idea might work and I will look into what you are suggesting.

 

I like the forum because it is like we are all in the same room trying to figure out the best way to figure it out.  Besides, we could have a donut party. How about apple fritters?

 

I also want to thank Stick for his last Sunday post on spanner wrenches.

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6 hours ago, Jim Hallman said:

Besides, we could have a donut party. How about apple fritters?

  Now you're talking language I understand...when's the party?;)

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Slowly continuing to restore the old Oliver 133 planer as time permits.

 

The original stock planer came from the factory with a direct-drive electric motor.  Somewhere in the planers life, the motor was replaced with a small 4V pulley and driven with an offset electric motor.  Removing the pulley was a PIA to pull off by utilizing an OTC 3-arm pulley puller.  Removing the pulley messed up the end of the shaft and had to cleaned up.  Finding the parts to restore the motor to factory is probably not worth the effort unless one can find the original parts but that is always an option.  So will likely install a new pulley and drive it with an offset belt and motor as before.

The next challenge was how to remove the old bearing inner races off each end of the main shaft.  There was not enoughroom to place a puller behind the race.  Tried to drive off the race with a punch but only accomplished banging up the old races.  So elected to burn off the races with a cutting torch.  One has to be careful not to burn through into the shaft below the race.  However, the torch left a couple divets in the shaft but will be covered up by the new bearing inner race.  The divets could be filled with weld and re-machine it but decided not to.

Then placed the shaft on an old Atlas metal lathe to clean up the main shaft.

 

Attachments include the respost of the main shaft with the pulley and the old bearings.

 

The next step is removing the cutter blades utilizing an homemade side spanner wrench.

 

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

Main Shaft with burned off races.jpg

Cleaned up shaft.jpg

Cutter head.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Jim Hallman said:

So elected to burn off the races with a cutting torch.  One has to be careful not to burn through into the shaft below the race.  However, the torch left a couple divets in the shaft but will be covered up by the new bearing inner race.

Yep....I've done hundreds of bearing/races on combines and other pieces of agricultural equipment in this fashion...

Glad to see progress is occurring. Looking forward to seeing the completed, operational machine, but probably not nearly as much as you are.:P

Really appreciate the project update Jim. Thanks!

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Now to remove the planer blades from the cutter head requiring a spanner wrench.

Fabricated the side spanner wrench out of 3/8" steel plate and 1"x1"x1/8"x15" square tubing for a handle.  Here is closeup view of the tool.  The pins are from a 1/4" bolt and decided not to weld in the pins so they can be replaced if need be.

Loosening and removing the blades was very easy and none of the spanner screws were bound or rusted from moving.  The blades turned out to be Craftsman 6" cutter blades.

Ended up painting the spanner tool with flat black Rustolem Rust Reformer to keep it from rusting.

 

Next part of the project will be cleaning up the parts from rust and grime.  Most of the rust is superficial and no apparent pitting which is good.

The rest of the project should be fairly easy and not as many challenges.

 

 

 

Spanner pin view.jpg

Using spanner to remove blades.jpg

Blade removed.jpg

Homemade spanner.jpg

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sweet!!

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Most excellent Jim...Now, wasn't that fun?:D

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