Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'work table'.
Found 2 results
Ever since 3 years ago when I got a bigger shop, I've wanted a bigger work table. My old one was just a bit too small to hold the linen cabinets, dressers, bookcases, and bunk beds that I've made over the last 5 years. I have a nice Tage Frid design Euro-workbench that I made when I was first getting serious in woodworking. It's fine, but too small for much assembly work. My objectives were: 1. 4x8 top, or close to it to hold the tall and wide projects that seem to be coming my way. 2. Storage underneath for frequently used tools and hardware. Since I decided to fully retire this spring, I have lots of specialty hardware that I used to take onsite that can now reside in the shop, but I need a place for it. I managed to win a bid for the wine display when a local Sam's Club closed and I got about 25 wine box displays made from 1/2" baltic birch. They will make fine drawers. In addition for my $8, I got about $20 worth of Roberson screws, a bunch of 2x4 shorts, about 10 pieces of 3/8" plywood, and some metal racks (that I gave to a friend who runs a feed mill). 3. A place for my Emmert patternmaker's vise that I've never had a place for. It's a heavy guy about 75 lb. Rotates around, swivels out, and holds tapered pieces. 4. Able to disassemble with minimal work in case I need to move it in the future. 5. Some place where I can do glue up, assembly, routing, sanding and whatever on parts. Here's some of the wine boxes, a few of which I've cut hand-holds in. The rest will get it later. I have a jig, use a plunge router with a bushing and mortising bit. The start was to head to Menards and buy some #1 Southern Yellow Pine (SYP) 2x8 joist material. This tends to be straighter and less knotty. I look for stuff that's near the center of the tree. Then I rip in in half and get some nice quarter- and rift-sawn wood. This is much better than the picked over 2x4 that are junky. SYP dries fairly fast. I used part of the lot to make some door frames for my shed, then other projects jumped the line, so it's been sitting for a couple of months. Once ripped, I ran all 4 sides through the planer to get smooth and clean surfaces. No one will know that it's 1 7/16 thick and not 1 1/2" Two layers of 3/4" BCX plywood for the top A story stick to double check my math, joinery, and layout for all the cuts, and a few more trial cuts from cut-off material. I thought about how to make the whole thing sturdy, yet disassemble with ease. While driving across the state, my mind came up with this approach to support all the drawers. Here's the prototype joint for the drawer runners into the vertical supports That works and gave my dado head a real workout. Stock for drawer runners and vertical supports. Until next time, working on rabbeting the drawer glides.
For several years, I've been wanting to build an assembly table. It seems like my 3x5 is always too small (broke a toe once when a cabinet side fell off). My thought is to make a 48x96. but have the last 30" or so be a drop-leaf and only pull it out when needed. I saw some WOOD plans recently that have given me some more ideas. I have a whole pile of baltic birch boxes that I got at a Sam's Club auction from their wine display. I think I'll convert some of them into pull-out drawers in the first photo and make the bench more like the second one. I really had to bid hard to get them. I got about 30 boxes of 1/2 BB, 8 sheets of plywood, and a few plywood triangles, a pile of short 2x4s, and two metal racks (that I sold for $40) and it set me back $8 and change. Oh, yeah, a box of ~300 new 1.25" Robertson screws sitting inside, and a few hundred of "only used once" 1.25" and 1.5" screws.