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Found 10 results

  1. Gerald

    Live Oak Burl

    From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Live Oak Burl with one side cut down. Finish is Tung Oil
  2. It appears that the confusion over oil finishes is not just limited to the US. Some good information in the article and the comments. I was SHOCKED at the price of this huckster's oil. I also got a laugh that it could be up to 100% naphtha (in which case you'd be buying paint thinner). https://paulsellers.com/2019/06/finishing-with-danish-oil/?pk_campaign=feed&pk_kwd=finishing-with-danish-oil https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use/
  3. A good comparison of linseed vs. tung oil One other difference is that if you apply subsequent coats of tung oil before what's there has fully cured, it will fog up and nothing will fix it except stripping and starting over. Be aware that many products are called Tung Oil Finish that are either linseed oil or linseed oil-varnish blends. If there is anything that looks like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons, etc. in the SDS, it's probably the latter and not really tung oil. Blame the huckster Homer Formby for starting this massive mis-representation. On another forum this week someone asked about finish for a wooden cup. One responder recommended "organic flaxseed oil." I don't think he realized two things: - this is just another name for raw linseed oil, that the article states takes weeks to cure - that after a few weeks of curing, linseed oil has 0 moisture excluding efficiency See chart 16-3
  4. The box for my uncle is completed. I used tung oil as the finish.
  5. I couldn't find any hinges then misplaced the lid when I started putting the 100 % Tung oil on. And it has sat there looking heart broken and dejected ever since. I still can't figure out what or why I had started building it! I finally asked the one who knows everything and she said she had requested a tape dispenser like the one I built for me...
  6. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
  7. TGIF : “Oil” finishes July 11, 2017 This week we explore “Oil Finishes,” that I put in quotes because it is probably one of the most mis-labeled* and myth-filled types of finishes. What is an oil finish? There are two true oil finishes in common use, linseed (oil extracted from the seeds of the flax plant) and tung oil (oil extracted from a nut from China). Raw linseed oil, while available, is seldom useful because it takes weeks to cure. Boiled linseed oil, sometimes called BLO (that is not boiled*), sometimes called BLO, but contains metallic driers that help it cure faster, in days. Tung oil has a mystique about it (probably due to promotional literature*). It is more difficult to use, takes more days to dry between coats (and if you don’t, you have to strip and start over), needs sanding between coats, and requires five to seven coats. In my opinion, there’s little reason to use it. “Oil Finishes” cure just like varnish – they absorb oxygen and cross link. There are also a handful of "polymerized oils" -- those heated in an oxygen free environment. This starts the polymerization and these can resemble varnishes. The other “Oil Finishes” Unless it’s really labeled 100% tung oil or boiled linseed oil, you are getting one of the oil look-alikes* One type is simply the wiping (thinned) varnish discussed in the last topic. The other type is an oil-varnish blend. Oil and (oil-based) varnishes are quite miscible and manufacturers, or you, can combine them in any proportion, and thin then with mineral spirits to any amount. You will find these labeled things like Tung Oil Finish*, Danish Oil*, Teak Oil*, <namebrand>-Oil*, or just about anything. Waterlox is a fine product, but if you read through the dozens of web pages, they will usually refer to it to as “tung oil finish.” In one obscure spot, it does confess, “what we make is a varnish.”(1) You can buy an oil-varnish finish, and never be quite sure what you’re getting. Or you can mix your own. The time-honored “secret recipe” is equal parts varnish, BLO, and mineral spirts. You can also buy an off-the-shelf product and change its proportions by adding varnish, BLO, or mineral spirits in any proportion. For example, you can fortify up a Watco Danish Oil by adding some varnish. The higher proportion of varnish, the more you will get a bit of a film finish. (this is what I did when I was in my novice, confused, deer-in-the-headlights, starting out phase of finishing) So, how do you tell what you have? Linseed and (100%) tung oil are generally labeled correctly. It if contains “resins” or thinners like mineral spirits, aliphatic hydrocarbons*, etc., it’s probably one of the imposters. A good way to tell is to put a puddle on some smooth surface like a piece of glass. You will see one of three results: The finish remains soft and lots of wrinkles - it’s an oil The finish is smooth and hard – it’s a wiping varnish The finish is smooth in the middle and wrinkled at the edges – it’s an oil-varnish blend and the more wrinkles the higher proportion of oil. Last I checked (and it’s undergone many owners, mergers and acquisitions along the years), Watco Danish Oil was approximately. (from the MSDS) 6/9 (=2/3) mineral spirits or other evaporating thinners providing nothing to the final finish 2/9 BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) 1/9 Varnish (trace amounts of coloring if not in the natural color) So it’s not very heavy in the varnish component and heavy in the thinners. Below are some samples. Note that the BLO is still soft after 7 years of being on this glass. How to apply Applying an oil or oil-varnish finish is dead easy. Get it on with rag or brush, let set up for a few minutes and wipe off the excess. The more varnish in the oil-varnish blend, the faster it will tack up and the sooner you need to wipe. Don’t leave much on the surface – this is not designed to be a film-forming finish, and if you leave too much, you’ll just end up with a soft and wrinkly finish like shown in the slide above (2). On porous woods, like oak, you may experience “bleed back” where as the finish cures it bubbles back out of the pores. The cure for this is to wipe for every few hours after the initial wipe. And apply a bit less the next coat. Provide the finish in an area with fresh air and room temperature. Between coats, you can sand with a fine (600 grit) wet or dry sandpaper to smooth the surface, then apply the next coat as the first. Usually, 3-4 coats are plenty. These are good finishes if you are doing a quick project with a child. It is very important that you take the rags you use outside and spread out to dry. The oil in oil finishes will heat as they cure, and the more heat the faster they cure, creating a chain reaction of more and more heat to the point where they can spontaneously combust, starting a fire. The result The result should be a smooth, in the wood finish. While it looks nice, it has minimal protection against water and water vapor presentation (3). It will also not be very protective against dirt and abrasion. So it would be fine for a product that does not need a lot of protection – bookshelves, artwork, boxes, etc. Not so good for dining tables with kids, handrails, chair arms. Some woods will darken/amber with an oil finish. Here is a “Keeping box” I made a few years ago. Two coats of BLO, four afternoons on the back patio and I had 10 years of patina in a week. Top coated with a couple of coats of blond shellac for sheen and protection. After a few years, an oil finish may start to look dull. Easy enough to fix – clean, lightly sand if you wish, and apply another coat. This can also conceal some superficial scratches. More reading (4-7) References and notes (1) https://waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=55d7f899-9e95-430b-9788-6ee59ed27e30&q= (2) Tales from the repair guy: A few years ago, I got a call to refinish some teak furniture that the owner had religiously “teak oiled” annually. The result was a soft, sticky mess, full of link, hair and fingerprints. Not too surprising, she built up a thick coat of soft oil (probably linseed). I stripped and refinished it. When I returned it, she asked how often she needed to re-apply the teak oil. I told her, “Never again.” (3) USFPL Wood Handbook, Chapter 16: Finishing of Wood, https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100 (4) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use (5) http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/choosing-best-wood-finish (6) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-blog/comparing-linseed-oil-and-tung-oil (7) http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleindex/teak-oil-oil-doesnt-exist
  8. Recently I was given a 12 inch wide 10 foot board that was 1 inch thick.  It was stored out in the weather for several years.  Upon cleaning up the board including all the cupping I found that this was a cedar board and that the grain had been brought out most dramatically. I decided to make a bowl with it.  This bowl is 10 inches in diameter and 3 3/4 inches tall.  This bowl was totally cut using the scroll saw.  The rings were cut at 22.5 degrees.  The bowl was sealed with tung oil then top coated with 4 coats of satin lacquer.     DW
  9. before I should be able to buff it? I have had very limited experience with Tung oil and have always wondered when I should be able to buff it. Thanks I like Tung oil on these tops because it does not give a very slippery surface when dried.
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