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Found 12 results

  1. Just 2 weeks left is our fundraising drive. Please consider donating and taking a chance on wining one of our sponsors' awesome prizes! Our Patriot Turners- @Steve Krumanaker continues to supply his unique turnings for a local "Bee" business- Steve's post has more images of some of the custom things he makes! @RustyFN scored some Bradford pear and showed us his blank preparation. Looks like some awesome bowls in his future Check out Rust's post- @Gerald has been busy replenishing his craft show stock- Check out his post to see what these are! @PostalTom updated us on the chess set he made. Tom included a closeup of the turned chess pieces, in his post Tom also posted some kitchen utensil items in our "What's On Your Workbench" forum- Our "What's On Your Lathe" continues to showcase our turners' projects! @nevinc, @forty_caliber and @Gerald all shared images of what's happening What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for links- For The Newbies- A variety of topics from around the web- From Tim Yoder, a couple of short video tips- From Mike Waldt, help for using my old nemesis- the Skew! This is a live demo so it is really long- Have you ever tried to cut a round blank on the bandsaw? Not a bowl blank, but rather an end off of a cylinder shape. If not secured properly, the blade can grab the piece and even break the blade. Mike Peace cautions about this and shares a video on making it safer. Expand Your Horizons- Craft Supplies USA created a video demonstrating the use of the Easy Core One Way Coring System. This is a rather long video but does demonstrate using the system. In the description, the presentation is broken down so the viewer can select sections to view. We've noticed several discussions about finishing, on other Patriot forums, and the subject of shellac pops up frequently. This link, from Kent Weakley, is to an article on making and using shellac as a bowl finish. https://turnawoodbowl.com/make-shellac-wood-bowl-finish/ I think everyone here knows my love of carbide turning tools. @smitty10101 posted about using Easy Wood Tools ( @Jordan Martindale ) to turn a bowl. The video is from Craft Supplies USA New Turning Items- Ron Brown has been creating and posting videos, on his YouTube channel, discussing his hollowing stabilizer. You can check them out at- https://www.youtube.com/@Ronbrownsbest/videos With SWAT happening this weekend, there will probably be some new products shown. Be sure to check out the Vendor showcase listed above for live feeds of some of the products. Everything Else- From Ron Brown's Newsletter, something I think we all have struggled with from time to time- What Is It Worth? I’ve had lots of questions about pricing one or two special pieces. For the vast majority of woodturners, it is a hobby, they never intend to sell anything they make. Some folks are interested in turning as a side gig but have no idea how to price their work. As someone who has experience in just about every conceivable selling venue, I would like to pass along what I have learned. Any object is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. When I’m considering how to price anything I’ve made or plan on making, there is a formula I use: Cost of material + Time @ desired labor rate = Hard Cost Hard Cost X 4 = Suggested Retail Selling Price Hard Cost X 2 = Wholesale Selling Price Average Market Price For Similar Items; Am I Close? This is only a starting point. Determine the “Market Price” for similar items depending on the selling venue, are you in the ballpark? The Market Price in an Arts & Crafts Gallery is very different from the Market Price at a street craft fair and those prices are different on Etsy, eBay, your own website, or Amazon. Don’t forget about the associated cost for each venue. The last measure is a selling price that I feel good about. In other words, it is a Win-Win; the customer is happy at that price and I was happy to make it for them. An absolute fact of life is that everybody loves a bargain. (See the scripture below). Your “Retail Price” should be some amount above the price you hope to sell it for. Every retail store on the planet understands this and so should you. If you are selling one-on-one, you can comfortably offer a deal if they take it now and still earn what you needed in the first place. If you are selling online, this is the perfect scenario for a sale with either free shipping or a percentage discount. You must also consider why you want to sell at least some of your work. Perhaps you want to fund additional tool purchases. In that case, forget the time you put in and consider the amount of profit dollars such a sale will contribute to your “new widget” fund. If the income is important as a supplement to other household income, it needs to be worth your time. If you are thinking of this as a main income stream, you need to maximize the return on your capital and your time and this will require counsel and careful consideration. Try to pick items that are fast, easy, and cheap to make that you can sell tons of i.e. pens, bottle stoppers, pepper mills, spinning tops, utility bowls, cutting boards, kitchen utensils, etc. The bottom line is complicated depending on your specific situation. Only you can make that determination. I recommend setting your initial asking price higher than you think you should. Often someone else thinks your widget is worth more than you do. You can always lower the asking price, but it is difficult to raise it. As I said before, something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. Here is a true quick story. I used to sell fancy laser-cut Christmas ornament kits and made finished samples for display at The Woodworking Shows. I got many inquiries from folks wanting to buy the finished ornaments that I really didn’t want to sell. I finally put a price of $150 on each one figuring that would stop all of the questions because nobody would pay that much for a Christmas Ornament. The first year we sold 12! Don’t sell yourself short Safe turning
  2. Awesome news from our sponsor Easy Wood Tools ( @Jim from Easy Wood Tools )! Easy Wood Tools has acquired Yorkshire Grit. Yorkshire Grit abrasive paste produces a super smooth finish, with less sanding! Check Easy Wood's site for more information- https://www.easywoodtools.com/. This pdf lists locations for purchasing- Yorkshire Grit - Purchasing Options Customer Email.pdf Our Patriot Turners- @forty_caliber posted a pecan bowl he finished. The grain in that wood is spectacular! Head on over to his post and see what our turners had to say about this beauty- A couple of weeks ago, @Gerald posted a bowl he had embellished with flamed copper pieces. He posted the finished work this week. See how he decided to protect the copper- Gerald explains in his post- @Steve Krumanaker wore his Easy Wood Tools/VetsTurn T-shirt to a an antique show and was rewarded- Steve shares the story here- What’s Coming Up- Click on the images for more information and links to registration. From As Wood Turns, a Christmas Ornament Challenge with prizes! There is more information here- https://www.aswoodturns.com/challenges/ For The Newbies- Use tenons or mortices when turning? Here's Mike Peace's take on it- Expand Your Horizons- Jim Rodgers turns a transitional vessel- New Turning Items- If you haven't tried the Yorkshire Grit sanding paste, give it a try! When used as per the instructions, you can apply any finish to the turning. Everything Else- Ron Brown's newsletter came this week and there was a story that we can all relate to when it comes to pricing our work. I asked Mr. Brown if I could share it here and he graciously agreed. You can sign up for his newsletter at his site- https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=account/login While you are there, check out all his great deals! Rick Turns list of YouTube woodturning videos from last week- Safe turning
  3. Using my newly shop-made tenon jig, I was able to make double tenons. I made a set-up board with mortises to evaluate the fit for the outside of the two tenons and for the completed tenons. I also used my ½” & ¾” shims for the four needed TS set-ups. I was pleased with the fit. Then I experimented to determine if I wanted square end tenons or round end tenons. Since I made the mortises with a router, I will have round end tenons. If I had used a mortising machine, I would have elected to have square end mortises. With some practice, the production double tenon pieces had a good fit into their respective mating part. 40 tenons done, 20 more to go. Thanks for looking. Danl
  4. Managed to find a wee bit of time, to go and hide in the shop today. Needed to cut a tenon on the end of the front post, so I could stash the side out of my way And, yes I did use that big,old rip saw. Keystone by Disston. More on that later...stashed the completed side frame over with the other one.. 1" tenon, designed to go throughthe arm rest, and be wedged in place......need to cut armrests...sometime... As for the slats, since the bandsaw likes to make "waves", I needed a plane to remove the waves.. If you look close, there on the end? There is a screw and a scrap of wood. Two screws and another scrap are at the far end. Needed a way to clamp the slat, without running the plane through the clamps. The plane is a Stanley No.7c, jointer plane. Slats are 26" long. I also used this long plane on the edge grain.. When I can get the slat to stand up, that is. Used a block plane to round the corners a bit. Slats were set up to have 1" tenons on the ends. I tend cut 1/4" or so off the sides of the tenons. Slats are a might to thin for any other cuts... Five slats done= 10 tenons made. That coping saw did a bit of the crosscut work. On some of the slats, my backsaw just would not start to cut. Coping saw had no problems. I'm keeping the thicker slats for the middle area of the back. Thinner two are out on the sides, less stress that way. That thing sticking up? Well, as long as I was cutting tenons, might as well do the front seat rail. Again, that 1" length. backsaw was a bit....meh about this job.....sooo Ah, remember about that rip saw? 5-1/2ppi. Challenger by Disston/Keystone Paid $6 for it, and then sharpened it up. Seems to work, a candle rubbed on the teeth helps, too. Made the bigger rip cuts, the backsaw was "shamed" into making the rest.. Disston No.4, 9ppi, filed rip. Got the rail done, but had all these toys in my way.. Needed to clear the "deck". Saws went back up into the overhead till. needed to lay out the spacing (again) of the slats, since some may have gotten skinnier...laid the top and bottom rail on the bench, then spaced the slats out, and made a few marks... Number the slats, too. Then marked the mortise locations, as well. mallet is already out. need to set up a way to chop the mortises. Without things hopping around on the bench. I now have a few 3/16" dowels handy, to pin this thing together, when I can get to the shop, again.. I did find a box fan, and set it up on the dryer. It can now blow cold air on me, as I work. Stay tuned, might get something done, before too much longer?
  5. Part 4: With the legs finished, it was time to create the aprons, shelf supports, and stretchers. These were all made from 1” thick poplar. The apron was 5” wide and the remaining pieces were 3” wide. The tenons were all done on the table saw. First establishing the shoulders- I have an old Delta tenoning jig that makes quick work of making the tenon cheek cuts. However, the length of the long aprons and shelf supports exceeded the distance between my table saw and the ceiling. Looks like a job for the dado blade. I used the same setup here, as I did for the shoulder cuts, the rip fence with a “depth stop” and the miter gauge. My table saw is a right tilt model (old Bridgewood) but due to space limitations I had to move the rip fence to the “other side” of the blade to be able to make these cuts. After a couple of adjustments, the tenon thickness was what I was looking for. Now just run all of the pieces for the tenon thickness A blade height adjustment to establish the tenon width. That’ll do Finally, run the pieces, again, to finish the tenons.
  6. I am starting a bookcase This is the beginning of the base unit and I've finally taken a short vod of my slot mortising machine / milling machine. The head tilts the power head is a Triton plunge router The miller Some components of the bookcase little tenons I can make 'em any size I need
  7. Lots of chopping going on. I got the tenons to size this morning, and laid out the mortises using the tenons as a guide. Just a few tools were needed for this job. And a clamp to hold the near end. The area I was chopping in, is right over the leg of the bench, no bouncing that way. Square was set to the center of the leg, minus half the thickness of the tenon. Mark from both sides in, and the area to be removed shows up. I mark the top and bottom of the mortise by laying a tenon on top, and tracing the lines. A Few chops. Stick the 1/4" chisel at a start line, bevel towards the middle. Four good hits with the hammer, wiggle the chisel, hop to the next spot, repeat. Near the other end, reverse the chisel so the bevel is towards the middle, again, Hammer it down, Pop out the chips, and start all over again. The wider chisel is there to square the sides. After a few chops, Test the fit, and adjust if needed. That little block is to keep things over the leg of the bench.  You can see the other clamp as well. Apron fits? Rotate the leg 90 degrees, and repeat the above. After awhile, you'll have a few legs done. One Tip: Keep track of where the nortises are, just wouldn't do to have one on the wrong side. So far, so good Three legs done, fourth is marked out for it's mortises. No mis-placed holes, so far. Debate is going on. Those bottom squares could use a stretcher? Maybe add a bottom shelf? Single Brain Cell Sketch-up is on overload. Details are " sketchy" as of yet. Have to check the lumber rack and see IF I have enough for "extras". Stay tuned might get complicated, might not...
  8. Well, I at least tried to get something done in the shop today. The more I tried to do, the more things were fighting back.....With the legs all turned, I thought I could work on the aprons? Had to figure out what angle to cut the ends...15 degrees was a bit too much, backed it off a bit, now it is maybe at 10 degrees.. Bandsaw to make the cuts. Too much stuff in the way to get to the mitrebox saw. Then laid things out to find the length needed.. had to do this for both the short aprons, and the long ones. Long ones also got a bit fancy.. Yeah, well it will need a little more sanding. Undecided about the shorter aprons....might leave them plain. Next, needed to get out some toys...er...tools, and make some tenons just gotta have the stool to sit on. As for the rest? Backsaw was nice, but hard to tell how deep I was going. Mallet and chisel to pop off the waste. There is a blue knife to make the "Knife wall" for the saw to follow. Squares for lay outs. Switched to a few other tools as I went. Wound up going with the coping saw. When the top of the blade is below the surface, time to stop the cut. There is also my version of a shoulder plane. Seemed to have found something this old plane can do. Had to adjust the iron a bit, it was a bit off to one side. Once all the tenons were cut, time to work on a place for them to go. Started fighting the legs, they did not want to be clamped down to the bench. Stool was trying to get in the way as well.....until a size 11 shoe showed it the way. Laid out a mortise..... Clamp is up close, as this was the only place the clamp would hold onto. Notice the clamp? Yep, still fighting me. This is test fit #1, will need a little fine tuning. Rotate the leg and reclamp Dig around until the second mortise is about done, then test fit #2 Dog holes work nicely to keep the chisels from rolling off onto the floor. tried one more leg.....kept getting more angry with things.....and then just stopped for the day. It is when one gets angry in a shop that mistakes start to happen......last thing to do while closing the shop for the day? That pulley on the lathe. Found the allen wrench, and found the set screw, too. One full turn of the wrench, then a 1/4 turn more to make sure it was TIGHT!. Might go out and get a second set screw to lock on top of the first one. Well, maybe tomorrow, after I've cooled down enough, I can chop a few more holes into the legs? Stay tuned...
  9. Painting WAS to be done today...Landlord fell asleep. He will try to get here in the morning...maybe. Sooo, that left me with not much to do....wandered down to the shop. had a few more tenons to cut, and then they'd all be done. Two of the parts had a curved side. Rather hard to clamp up in the vise...unless you keep a bit of scrap from where you cut the curves out. had to trim a bit off, to clear for the saw cut. Waxed up the backsaw Saw about a third of the way down. A chisel to pop the waste off, that old woodie plane to trim it flat. Rotate and repeat. The two curved ones were down, the non-curved one was almost easy. Set them out to show off N Not too bad? Should have stopped here...but..... Decided to try to chop out a mortise or three. Used the tenons to mark out where to chop. As long as I got which tenon went where. Here on the "Flat", wasn't too bad. Takes a few different chisels. Note the mortise in the side of the leg? This is where things when downhill....in order to clamp a leg so it won't hop around.. lay out where the tenon will go. It was while I was fiddling with the long aprons that things started to hop off onto the floor.....then a BIG dizzy Spell hit....Ok, enough is enough. Got out a pipe clamp, the bottle of Elmer's and a couple 1" nails. Glued up two legs and a top apron. Used a bottom apron to hold the legs straight. left a few short aprons in place... laid the rest of the small parts out. Thought about trying to fight my way through the mess.....maybe some other day. I did find out that the panel for the bottom shelf was a bit too short It will just reach to the legs...it was supposed to go a bit past them.....maybe a breadboard edge on the ends? I'd have to notch the breadboard to fit between the legs. Big panel sittin up IS the table's top. This will be the bottom of the top. Got to hide that knot, after all....stay tuned
  10. Finally got to go to the shop, again. Planes have been rehabbed and shipped out, van is now fixed up. I can rip a few boards of walnut 5/4 stuff. needed three pieces. One will be the second long apron, the other two will be long stretchers under the bottom shelf. Ran into a problem, though. The foot part of the legs is too small... Which meant I had to cut the leg back about a 1/4" or some, just to get a flat area for the stretcher to land on. Which mad a change in tenon length, too. Needed to find out how long a tenon I could get by with.. Clamped a leg into the vise. planed the flat after the bandsaw had cut the waste off. Since two legs have the mortise for the apron chopped, I got the apron out and the other leg. A pipe clamp to almost hold things together. Yeah. Then i used a c clamp to hold a strecher close to where it will go, about evenly spaced between the two. Gave me a tenon length like this... pencil to mark a spot. Used a square to "carry" the line around. Marked both stretchers. laid out the toy list items...Backsaw, chisel, square, mallet. and started cutting tenons wasn't too hard, backsaw to the line, go 1/3 the way through, by eye. Chisel and a whack of the mallet to pop the waste off. chisel to pare flat, rotate and repeat. There was one that wanted to be a problem...as I was doing the long apron board.. yep, big old nasty KNOT. Well, I sawed down the usual 1/3 of the way. Chisel did NOT want to pop the waste off...hmm...Old School Way! I stood the board on it's end in the vise, and sawed off the waste. pared it a bit and laid the board back down. And finished it up. While doing the LAST tenon of the night's work (of course) I tried out a wooden plane as a shoulder plane. It has been a bit tricky to set, but I FINALLY got it to work... Figures. Well, stacked all all the parts back onto the bench, as it will be a few before I get down there again. Got a few short ones to tenon, and a bunch of mortises to chop. maybe by Sunday I can grab a bottle of Elmer's? Oh, BTW, I also got the bottom shelf out of the clamps, and planed smooth. Stay tuned....
  11. According to the inventory of the remaining wood stash from the old bed frame: 1 1x6x7' rail in plywood ( soaked) 1 1x 6 x 7' rail might be a glue/lam board, lots and lot of thin plys 1 1 x 10 x7' pine board 2 trim piece from the headboard So, there was just enough for a frame and planel lid. Cross cut to 1 x 6 gl board to just under 34" long, then ripped in right down the center. Front and backs are cut. Cut a section @14" or so long, and ripped it right down the middle. ends are done. Got out the router, and made some grooves. The two short sections needed tenons on each end. Got out the sharpest saw in the shop Hey,it works, ok. A Disston D-8 11 point crosscut saw. Then a chisel to knock off the waste. There is a stop block behind the rail, and another on the end. One to clamp the part to, the other as a stop block for the chisel work. Got all four tenons made. Time to try out some new toys! These just came in the mail a few days ago...REAL Mortise chisels. Since the tenons go deeper than the panel's grooves, time to try these out Another set of jigs. One to clamp the part in place, the other to keep it level in the first jig. Finger clamp to secure things in the jig. I can also raise the parts up, and clamp under them, for the times I need to plane an edge. Chisels worked great, soon had a frame made And NOW I can measure for a panel. I had that 1x10 to bring in to the shop. Cross ut to section to 29" or so. Needed about 13" in width......from a 1 x10??? Ok rip a filler strip to get the width to 13", AFTER jointing a few edges straight. Tried the edges to see which fit which edge, and made a witness mark across the joint. Panel is now sitting ON my benchtop, hogging about every clamp I have While the rest of the parts chill out in a forlorn corner of the shop. LUNCH TIME! Maybe tomorrow, I can make a raised panel, add a frame around it, and add some trim You can barely make out the profile on the trim boards. That old finish needs to go, Stay tuned...
  12. Well, there is all the parts Frame & Panel parts. Just finished milling the last leg parts.Had some nasty stuff to cut away, though Just to make two back leg blanks for the end panels. Cleaned up some rails Set up a three screw jig to remove the "cope" from the tenon. Used a #3 handplane to "Chute" away the lip, and mill the shoulder back to square. Third screw is behind this rail. Most of the old parts had a two layer "veneer" , some even had a thick paper as the outer layer. Pried most of it off, to get down to the "real wood" underneath the glue. Milled a few last grooves, and will start to mill tenons tomorrow, I hope. Even tried a test fit Ok, so I still have some work to do on this.... Raised panels have been sitting around, awaiting to be installed in the frames. Trying to build this chest with just the parts scrounged from the old bed frame. Might even have enough left over, to glue up a fancy lid... Stay tuned...
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