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My Hammer rip fence died. AT LAST~!!!!! I hated that thing. It was as if some one brought their 12 year old to work and let her design and engineer the rip fence. So I order some stinkin bleedin OVERKILL metal 0.200" thick 2" x 3" steel tube 1/4" thick 3" x 3" angle Some more smaller angle and some 2"x 3/8" bar. I had a hunk of 3/8 x 6" laying around Here's my progress so far: End view of the Fence in progress There are 13, 1/4-20 bolts holding them together pinned on the ends with dowel pins Yes I hand tapped them. I hung it on the saw tonight. There is also an end support. This is about 60 pounds of steel. There are only two bolt locations on the Euro style saw. That left a huge honking long mess of steel cantilevered off the end looking solely for support to some sheet metal tables they sell with the saw. It's really a small piece of cast iron they have for the saw. IT works but it's not big. My saw is stationary. So I cheated. I installed an end support for the fence onto the concrete floor. I anchored a hunk of 6" x 3/8" steel to the floor with TapCons. But first I welded a hunk of angle to that so it's stand vertically and installed a cap with a 3/8-16 tapped hole for a leveling screw. So now, I can adjust the angle of the dangle quite nicely. No pics of it on the saw tonight. To much of a mess. Now I'm cutting iron and brass for the L fence. It's going to have a hunk of Aluminum extrusion as the main fence component but it'll lock to the guide rails mush like ( only way far better than ) a Biesemeyer. I plan on fabricating an eccentric cam clamp using ball bearings to eliminate scrub wear. Can't use a Bies' or a Vega because it's a Euro saw and the T style won't do. It's got to be an L style