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on the sanding blocks... Sherwin Williams guy ask me one day some time ago to take this flexible sand paper and give it a try and let them know what I think of it.. It was quick some time before I went to give him my thoughts. So, he said lets hear it...First off I said I haven't been able to wear out that small two sheets you gave me and second though is it works better on uneven surfaces better than anything I have ever used.....period...It is pricey but I don't have to buy it very often. I read where guy had bought a machine to cut sheets of sand paper for his sanding block...I never realized anyone would spend money on something to do a simple task..I was shown this the first day I went to work at a furniture store in 1954 and still do this every day in the shop when using sanding blocks. I have 5 3M sanding blocks I bought around 1960 and 4 of them I still use all the time. One, a flap work out this year. A person will learn to keep different grits available to save time.. fold the paper over then crease it with the back of the rubber block a few times then fold it back over the other way a time or two then lay it on the edge of the table saw an tear it apart. I think this was a young lad on Superjocks wood site who had spent money to get his paper sized?? But I will have to use sizzors for this 3M p220 flexible stuff so there you go.
Well, I had three chisels in need of a bit of work. A Buck Brothers 3/8" Mortise chisel, a Witherby 1/2" paring chisel, and a "Work Zone 8mm Aldi's chisel. While I was down in the shop, a little prep work was done. 8mm chisel was badly chipped on the end. Ground a new edge. Beltsander to re-do the other two edges. Who ever had done these two before me...did not have a clue. Mortise chisel was @ 45 degrees? The Witherby was a very short 35 degree bevel? Brought the chisels and the "supplies" up to the work zone on the dining room table.. 600 grit stone, 1K grit, and 2K grit sandpaper, a leather belt for a strop, and a Veritas MK1 honing jig. Found out, right off the bat, the Mortise chisel does not work with the guide. Way too many angles going on. Lot of free hand work with that one. There is an area between the front wheel and the platten on the beltsander, that does work nicely for the bevel I needed... Starts out at about 25 degrees, then towards the edge, "morphs" into a 35 degree edge. Hand work to polish this one up. I'd set the sandpaper on the stone, and work the bevels, and the back.. Til I could run the two down the strop..20-30 times. Next was the Work Zone 8mm. This one I could use the jig.. Set it at 30 degrees.....it was at 25, but the edge wouldn't hold up. 35 was a bit too steep. I'll try 30 for a while and see how it does.... Stone, then the two sandpapers, then the strop, on the strop, it was free-hand. As for the Witherby? Since it works as a paring chisel, I could lower the bevel to 25 degrees. Belt is an old leather work belt, used to hang my nail bags on. Now all three are sharpened up. Need someone to haul all this back to the shop. Not sure what "grit" the strop is, the highest grit I use on the wet or dry is 2000 grit, Stone is just a 600 grit Medium India oil stone. About all I have to sharpen with in this shop.....oil is just 3in1 oil.
Seems a #3 sized Dunlap was in bad need of a resharpening. Right down to regrinding a new edge. What is so special about this little plane? Well, it has a metric width iron from West Germany. The bed for it is called a York Pitch because the angle is about 50-55 degrees, instead of the normal 45 degrees. Grinder and a 1" wide beltsander to refine the bevel, somewhere around 25 degrees or so. Then a pair of oil stones, one a "Medium India 600 grit" and one was about 1K grit Doing these free-handed nowadays, too. Then some 1K and 2.5K grit sandpaper. Clean and BLO the wood parts. Set them aside while I get out an old belt Used Dry, at that. Maybe 20 strokes on the bevel and the now polished back. Worked on the chip breaker, as well. Now has zero gaps between the chipbreaker and the back of the iron. Put the parts back together, and set up some scrap to test the edge a bit Not too bad? Left a shiny edge on the Cherry scrap. As for that grinder? I have a jig attached to the finer wheel I can set it to the angle that matches the bevel, tighten it in place, and grind away. All of the above took MAYBE 15 minutes, plus a little "play time" as well. Might have this figured out?
I know this is more than likely a silly question. however I am going to ask it anyways, because I am like that lol. When you sand a project how do you know when you are done. do you go from the coarsest grit to the lowest all the time or is it dependent on the wood and its softness? how do you know when it is time to go to a lower grit sandpaper? The reason I am asking is because every time I feel like I have sanded enough and I coat it there always seems to me that I should have sanded it more. Well thanks for those who take the time to answer my question.
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