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Showing results for tags 'router'.
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Saw THIS else where. Pretty cool actually although pricey IMO. I could see applications for small production run shops or multiple one-off projects. WARNING: Some language in the video. Also see if you can figure this guy's favorite phrase.- 2 replies
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An interesting video and one of a large series on traditional hand tools. Bit of background. I met Graham on the internet years ago. A number of years later, he was speaking at PopWood's seminar and I was working the AV. I was surprised he remembered me by name, even though we never met in person. He lived in Woodstock, NY at the time and was actually a musician in the Woodstock music festival 1969. He is an accomplished hand tool woodworker and wrote some books and articles for PopWood back in the day. See: Graham Blackburn books
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Hi All, I'm new here and need some help with an antique armoire I'm repairing. The back is a frame and panel design and I need to create some replacement slats. The tongue ends aren't like any I've ever seen and I can't find the proper router bit for it. Any suggestions on what I can use to cut this? Thanks in advance! Munsey
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Anyone have any experience with the shaper origin? I really don’t have room for a full cnc and maybe an alternative? https://www.shapertools.com/en-us/
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Those YouTube videos from Infinity and purveyors of templates make it look so easy. We'll, that's just B.S. Of course, they have properly deminsioned stock and a completely outfitted and correct size of router. Not to mention, their proprietary router inlay kit on hand. For the inlay I'm doing on Phyl's mesquite coffee table, only two woods, walnut and maple, are used. Both need to be at 1/8th thick. Or, so I thought. In my stash, I found some walnut I'd reasawn to close to 1/8. Not so lucky with the maple. But, I managed to get it down to close with the bandsaw. Here's where my lack of foresight once more bites me in the a$$. I took great pains to plane the stock to precisely 1/8". I could have simply set the router's depth to the thickness the stock off the bandsaw. Dumb! With the stock prepared, it was time to set up the router. I had originally planned to use the Bosch Colt because of it's small size. After a couple of fruitless hours of fiddling, I found there ain't no way Bosch's base plate will accept the Infinty inlay kit. There are several base plate adapters and none work. I tried them all. So, it was time to break out one of the PC 690s. The Infinity kit requires some pretty fine router adjustments which required removing the base plate on the 690, inserting their centering pin in the router chuck, then reinstalling the base plate with the inlay kit bushing set attached. Thereby insuring the precise alignment required. I was surprised at how much play there was in the base plate screw placement. With all the above accomplished, I'm pretty sure I'm ready to start cutting. Well, that's after theTarter Woodworking templates are all in place and secured. All in all, getting to this point consumed most of yesterday. Nap included of course. It's a new day and new adventures await. To be continued...
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I bought this combo at a pawn shop. I thought I'd try the plunger out on the poker table. It's difficult to get in the router in the plunger base. Is his normal for his model?
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The walking stick is done and has the first coat of boiled linseed oil on it. I used linseed oil because that's about as good anything for outdoor use and it's very easy to re apply as needed. I really like white oak and walnut together. After a few coats of oil this will get a rubber cane tip on the bottom.
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Way back in 2000 WOOD magazine published a project called, "a wood turners walking stick", or something like that. When it was published the closest thing I had to a lathe was a shopsmith. No one, especially not me, would've called me a wood turner. In fact, I didn't even want to be a wood turner. When I did turn something purely out of necessity it amounted to a little bit scraping and a whole lot of sanding. Never the less, this wood turned walking stick project really caught my eye and I decided I'd try to make one. I did but I actually bought a spindle sander to make the finger profiles in the handle because I didn't think I could form them on the lathe, you'll see what I'm talking about in a minute. I then asked my wife if she'd like one. She said yes but she didn't like those finger things and could I do a checkerboard thing or something. Again, I had no idea how to do that on a lathe but here is what I ended up with for handles. This particular stick on the right I did make on the lathe as I have since gotten a little better than I was back then. This post however, is about how I did the crosshatch. Since I didn't know how to do it by hand I decided to make a router jig to do it. Funny thing, I didn't know how to do that either. Well, it worked. I made the handle, threw the jig up on a shelf and forgot about it. That was over 20 years ago. A couple weeks ago my wife asked if I'd make a couple walking sticks for Christmas. One of them will be for our grand daughter and she is tiny. Wife said, "you'll need to do the checkerboard thing again cause her hand is to small for the other type of handle. So, the last few days I've been trying to figure out just how the jig worked. Getting close now but still have some issues with it crosshatch.mp4 Like I said, a real Rube Goldburg contraption, it's based loosely on the old Legacy ornamental mills. I'm pretty sure when I first made this I used a hand held router. Just cannot remember exactly how I did it. You can see, in the second half of the video I've got some issues with slippage on the drive end. I know how to address that though and should get good results tomorrow or the next day. There is only one video, don't know how to get rid of that screen.
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Here's a good video on the subject. Note you could also just mortise both sides and cut some floating tenons, too. Or you could go to PopWood's site and pay $4 for the video. http://mycrafts.com/diy/mortise-tenon-joinery-with-a-router/
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A gentleman on another forum read my lamentations about the possible demise of my beloved PC 690 router and, contacted me with an offer of 4 such treasures. I chose two with plunge bases. $50 each, Plus shipping of $47 for both. UPS will be at my door Monday. I'm ecstatic! Norm Abrams seemed to have a router for every bit he owned. I'm not there yet but, the stable is growing.
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I've looked for a 1hp replacement with no luck. Anybody have a suggestion for another brand? DeWalt looks OK but, I'm not enamored with their drills. Are their routers better? Anybody tried a Rigid? Would like a new one to accept PC style template guides. So, that kinds eliminates Bosch. -
Can anyone tell if they have ever removed the anti-backlash nut from a jessem router Mast-R-Lift table. Mine is stripped and I’m trying to remove it. Called Jessem but they have not returned my calls. Email them and they referred me to a later model Mast-R-Lift. Which was no help it is configured different then my model. Enclosed is a picture of the one I have
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Looking to buy a new router for my router table. Narrowed this down to 3 choices. I'm not really concerned about the router base as I will just be using the motor in a JessEm router lift. I like the Bosh but leaning towards the Hitachi with a low noise rating. Any help with reliability and performance is appreciated. All routers are over 2hp. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618-Electronic-Variable-Speed-Fixed-Base/dp/B00006JKXB https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Variable-Speed-1617EVS-4-Inch-Collets/dp/B00004TKHV/ref=asc_df_B00004TKHV/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726541131793&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZZWXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29PHU0KPCGV8S&psc=1
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I'm just getting started in this hobby, but one of the things I know I'll need for the projects* I want to build is a router and router table. My funds are modest, but I'd rather save my pennies for another month or two and get something which will be good for the long haul than just get whatever's on sale at the local big box. I do want quality, but I'm not big into bells and whistles. I generally prefer used and US-made to Cheap Chinese Crap, but good older equipment may be hard to find at a reasonable price and it's possible that I'll want or need some features that the older models may not have. Can anyone make recommendations about what has worked for them and what they might advise for me? * (Immediate projects: General home repair carpentry and cabinet making. Longer term, want to build some custom furnishings. There's a plan for a DIY grandfather clock up on the Shopsmith website that I'm salivating over, but that will be a couple of years down the road.)- 16 replies
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Anyone using a sled like this? I like the clear plexi but wonder about using these when doing vertical router table cuts say for lock miter joint or drawer joints? https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/vertex.html This came to mind when I received an Infinity Tools email boasting their vertical sled. Looked online and really don't see plans for building one at all. Infinity's sled is here https://www.infinitytools.com/vertical-router-sled-4576 I also figure that doing vertical cuts like this will require a sacrificial backer board to prevent tearout which in turn reduces the width of the board these jigs will allow. So just how well would these work? Interestingly I couldn't find any plans to make one of these and I can't see it being that difficult. Any ideas?
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There was a guy on Woodnet many many years ago who machined a bowl cutting jig that mounted to the router which mounted onto the project. It rotated to form a change/bowl cutout... Anybody familiar with what I'm talking about?
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Bought one of the a few years ago. Any good places to go for user information. Cant remember if I have the manual or not. Thx?..
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After reading @Steve Krumanaker blog on his laser, it has interested me greatly, but on the cnc router level. But Steve's blog really got me thinking on this. Been looking at CNC Router home made plans and there is a whole community out there for this type of do-it-yourself and they are very supportive of one another, very open source, free plans, open source software, and just a neat community altogether. Thanks Steve for showing me.
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I have a Bosch 1604 my Dad gave me that I wish to use for a mini router table. My plan is to leave a roundover bit all set up to use when needed. In making my mock up I realized that the limiter appears to be built into the body of the router. So if I removed, as in grind it flat, this would allow me to extend the router shaft above the table far enough to do above table bit changes. My question, anyone taken one of these apart? Is something important below this I should not be screwing with? Here are a couple of pics with the arrow on the yellow tape pointing out the nub in question. Also model # and other info in case that matters.
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I've finally decided to make a router table, and incorporate a lift (probably Jessem Rout-R or Mast-R). Most of the prefab router tables I see have the router centered on the table. This would seem too waste a lot of the surface area behind the router bit. What bit clearance do you have on your table, and would moving it back a bit improve the use?
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Hmmm...do mine a bit differently.....no fancy jigs to build, nor fancy router bases to make... Did have to buy some goggles. I guess the vise could be called a jig... two lines, one for the dovetails themselves (base line?) the other sets where the base of the router is to stop....clamp the drawer front with the second line right at the top of the jaws.. I can either mark out the layout of the pins, or..just use the MK 1 eyeball, sighting down. Remove this from the vise, clamp to the bench top.. Hammer and chisel to clean up...use these pins to layout the tails... A few bandsaw cuts, cutting on the waste side of the lines ( more layout line you leave, the tighter the fit will be) After a glue up, and before things are planed smooth.... When there are a bunch to do....plus all the rest of the joints and grooves to make....less time building jigs = more time to build drawers... Of course, IF you feel you NEED all them fancy jigs.....
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This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. -
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View File Workbench Magazine March-April 1967 Spanish Style Table This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Submitter John Morris Submitted 05/03/2019 Category Furnishings -
About a week ago I was building a set of stairs for my son's new place, when the old Craftsman router started to shake badly. I drove home and got the Triton from my router table, which fortunately is equipped with the same Lee Valley base, so it would work in the jig. It ALSO vibrated, so I exchanged the 1/4" shank bit for a 1/2" one. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Later that night I dismantled the Craftsman and found that a wood chip had been sucked up into the fan, bending it badly and breaking off two of the blades. The vibration resulted in a crack across the 1/4" bit shaft, creating the problem with the Triton. The Craftsman has served me well... I've had it for well over 40 years! However, after hearing of many problems with the newer ones, I won't be buying another one. A small Bosch may be in my future. Not the clearest picture, but can you make out the two bottom lines? THOSE WERE THE DAYS! John
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