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  1. steven newman

    Back view

    Back view, showing the armrests, and the slats for the back. Back rung is a store-bought 7/8" dowel. Finish is two coats of Witch's Brew ( Pumpkin Pine?). The "bench" in the background is my Saw Bench, now over 2 years old.
  2. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The side view looks just as good as the front view, I am happy with the results thus far.
  3. John Morris

    Dry Fit Rocker Parts

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I dry fit the chair together and checked for fit, mortises, tenons, racking, and square, it all lined up beautifully.
  4. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    All the mortises are bored in the proper locations for the side rungs, we are ready to assemble the main chair frame.
  5. John Morris

    Back Ladder Mortises

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The side rung mortising jig is rotated 180 degrees for the back ladder mortises.
  6. John Morris

    Boring Side Rungs

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I put the front ladder up on the side rung mortising jig to bore out the mortises for the chair rungs. The jig is angled to accommodate the splayed seat configuration.
  7. John Morris

    Chair Mortises

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I had a total of 8 mortises to complete, it took a couple hours. But well worth the time. I could create a jig to cut these with a router, but I'd rather not.
  8. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The ladder back is ready to glue up, it is racked a tad, but that's expected with hand made works. Once I glue up and clamp it flat to the table top, the ladder back should set up nice and straight.
  9. John Morris

    Shaping Arms

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The arms of the New Lebanon Transitional rocker need to be shaped by draw knife and then refined with a combination of chisels and final sanding. I am using my Ebay find, a James Swanson Draw Knife, it's a joy to use.
  10. John Morris

    Back Slats in Form

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I tried this once before with these same slats, using only two clamps, and I failed miserably, so I had to put the slats back in the steamer again, and try to get the slats to cooperate in the form. This time I used many clamps, and I even clamped some supports so the forms wouldn't get wiggly and goosey on me.
  11. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    As you can see, this is a far cry from my original idea of using two clamps. The author (Kerry Pierce) of the book I am learning to build chairs from, uses a bench vise to close his forms in, that is an excellent idea, there is no wrestling, no fuss, just insert the steamed slats in the form at the bench vise, and close the vise. I will need to purchase a bench vise with the screw longer than 10" as that is the thickness of my form with the slats in them, pre-bend. That'll have to wait though, as funding becomes available for such a tool. Eventually I'll have to have several bench vises to accommodate the construction of various chairs at once. These slats are a quarter inch thick. The formula for steam bending wood is 1 hour per inch, thus 15 minutes should suffice for these slats, but the author steams his slats for a half hour, so I did as well. I am not that good yet that I can start steering away from sage advice from a professional post and rung chair builder like Kerry Pierce.
  12. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I even put the posts in the steam box just because, I don't know, but I felt like I needed to before I fired up the steamer, I just wanted to see them in the box! I pulled them back out before I fired up the steamer and waited about 15 minutes for the box to heat up before returning the posts back inside.
  13. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I sanded the post to 220, I did not get too carried away with the sanding on the rear posts, since it's going into the steamer, the grain will raise anyway. After I took the post to 220 I marked a couple lines where the rear and side rung holes must be drilled, and where the back slats will have to be mortised in by hand.
  14. John Morris

    Back Slats and Posts

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Ok, we are all set, and ready to steam and bend the first parts for this rocking chair. The back slats will be bent pretty sharply to accommodate the back of a person, and the posts will have a gentle bend that will lay back a tad for a person to lay back in as well.
  15. John Morris

    Lay Out Rung Holes

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    This is my story stick for my layouts. I used the line I drew at the lathe, then intersected that line with the lines on my story stick to layout the rung holes.
  16. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    My old Delta Rockwell did a pretty good job with my 5/8" Forstner style bit.
  17. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I screwed and clamped my rear post to a jig I made for this purpose, and I bored out he rung holes for the rear cross rungs.
  18. John Morris

    Back Slats

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Once shaped each back slat separately I then ganged them up and did a few more passes with my shave and block plane, to get them all to even height and shape.
  19. John Morris

    Back Slats

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I re-sawed some cherry down to 3/8" then I took it to the planer to finish it down to 1/4" thickness. I then band sawed the chair back slats to shape, and I finished up the edges with a spoke shave to smooth out all the bumps and bruises from the band saw.
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