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Showing results for tags 'rip saw'.
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Managed to find a wee bit of time, to go and hide in the shop today. Needed to cut a tenon on the end of the front post, so I could stash the side out of my way And, yes I did use that big,old rip saw. Keystone by Disston. More on that later...stashed the completed side frame over with the other one.. 1" tenon, designed to go throughthe arm rest, and be wedged in place......need to cut armrests...sometime... As for the slats, since the bandsaw likes to make "waves", I needed a plane to remove the waves.. If you look close, there on the end? There is a screw and a scrap of wood. Two screws and another scrap are at the far end. Needed a way to clamp the slat, without running the plane through the clamps. The plane is a Stanley No.7c, jointer plane. Slats are 26" long. I also used this long plane on the edge grain.. When I can get the slat to stand up, that is. Used a block plane to round the corners a bit. Slats were set up to have 1" tenons on the ends. I tend cut 1/4" or so off the sides of the tenons. Slats are a might to thin for any other cuts... Five slats done= 10 tenons made. That coping saw did a bit of the crosscut work. On some of the slats, my backsaw just would not start to cut. Coping saw had no problems. I'm keeping the thicker slats for the middle area of the back. Thinner two are out on the sides, less stress that way. That thing sticking up? Well, as long as I was cutting tenons, might as well do the front seat rail. Again, that 1" length. backsaw was a bit....meh about this job.....sooo Ah, remember about that rip saw? 5-1/2ppi. Challenger by Disston/Keystone Paid $6 for it, and then sharpened it up. Seems to work, a candle rubbed on the teeth helps, too. Made the bigger rip cuts, the backsaw was "shamed" into making the rest.. Disston No.4, 9ppi, filed rip. Got the rail done, but had all these toys in my way.. Needed to clear the "deck". Saws went back up into the overhead till. needed to lay out the spacing (again) of the slats, since some may have gotten skinnier...laid the top and bottom rail on the bench, then spaced the slats out, and made a few marks... Number the slats, too. Then marked the mortise locations, as well. mallet is already out. need to set up a way to chop the mortises. Without things hopping around on the bench. I now have a few 3/16" dowels handy, to pin this thing together, when I can get to the shop, again.. I did find a box fan, and set it up on the dryer. It can now blow cold air on me, as I work. Stay tuned, might get something done, before too much longer?
A Disston D-23 needed a refrsh of it's teeth. Has 6ppi. Picked the shop last spring....FREE. Bought a new file to try out. Stanley 6" Extra slim taper file..$5.99+tax. Dug up a few pieces of wood to make the saw vise's jaws had to notch them to fit around the saw's handle. handle won't fit in the vise, plate is tto wide back there. C clamp to hold things still...adapted the file handle to hold the new file ( tang was a bit too long) and started off down the line of all them teeth. 6 x 26"= aLOT of teeth to file. Got a bit closer to the bench vise, things were vibrating a bit...another c clamp was added And we are off! Until I got to the end of those jaws. Mountain Dew Break! Came back, and fought with the jaws to move everything BACK into the bench vise. Had to add a couple pieces out on the end.. Found out I can keep the file's teeth clean by just wiping the file on the leg of my jeans. File was run at a 90 degree to the plate, tipped the file forward just a hair. 4 strokes acoss each tooth. Had to stone the right hand side of the plate, too. Found out there was a bit too much set on that side. ( burrs, maybe?) gave the saw a test drive....first ones not so good. Stoned off the burrs, waxed the plate....still wanted to follow the grain's curves...Ok, got that stuff fixed, and tried a third time.. I marked a line to try to follow. Normally, it would be a knife-wall. Cuts fairly well. Tried in some curly maple.....board's kerf would close up onto the saw plate, causing it to bind. Might use a different saw for maple. Next up....I have a Disston No.7, 7ppi to work over. I think I will go out and get a better set of "jaws" first, better using the file again. Royal PITA to shift everything around. Full length jaws would work a bit better.
Was dropped off real early this morning, hadn't even finished my 1st Mountain Dew of the day! Big padded envelope. item was stretch-wrapped to a large sheet of cardboard. Finally dug it out of all the packing, and hauled it to the shop. Not the prettiest thing on the block. Plate is just a hair under 14" long. Might have to work on the handle a bit, seems a bit chunky? Back is blued, steel bolts, no place for a medallion. No etch, either. Got out a scrap of white oak, just to see how it does cut....as a rip saw.. Full depth, nice and straight, did NOT need any wax on the plate. Tried a few more cuts, maybe try to make a tenon? This shows the first two cuts, and the third inprogress. Those little squares in the wood? Was trying a couple of these out. Managed to accumalate a few mortise chisels....anyway, got the fourth cut done, laid the scrap over, and cut the shoulders.. That scrap WAS 1/2" thick, by 2" wide. Not too hateful? Now, about this here chunky handle.. thinking about firing up the bandsaw, and trimming the back edge a bit, so it isn't so wide. Maybe a round-over as well. has a Sandvik flavour to it, don't it. $5.99 + S&H....not too bad....