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Showing results for tags 'replacement'.
Found 15 results
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I need to replace several carbide bits for my Rockler R2 cutter. Usually, because the screw comes loose and the bit and screw get swooped up by the vacuum, never to be found. I will work on that. For now, though, I see Rockler replacement cutters for now $25 for a round one. I simply don't want to pay that much. I see some similar things, though with different sizes and screw holes on Amazon for $15 down to less than $3 if I buy ten at a time. For the difference in price, I might either modify my Rockler tool or craft a new one by myself, with friends. But, is less than $3 a piece too good to be true? Going to the web on quality levels of tungsten carbide, I see "C" levels. Some carbide bits have C1 printed on them. Most have nothing printed on them, nor do I see anything in the specs. One local guru says it may not really matter much with wood. Looking deeper, I see there are over 1500 grades of tungsten carbide, And, the source says that two manufactures may use the same designation while the true specs are completely different. It is too bad that several brands of carbide tools for lathes seem to use their unique sizes, but it is probably so they can sell their proprietary bits. For today, how much do I need to think about C ratings on carbide bits for the lathe? Is $3 or less a bit too good to be true? Are there far cheaper sources for bits that fit a Rockler tool and its dimensions? What sources for carbide bits have you used successfully, if I am to build my own tool? Thank you, as always
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- replacement
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I got two drills from an estate plus a saw , Dewalt 14.4, with six batteries and two chargers. One drill sparks so it is not worth any effort. One battery seems fine and one I would say a step below that. No others want to give a good spin to the drills. Looked at replacement costs and thinking NiMH but what I read said that using NiCad charger for those will cause battery failure. Question is has anyone tried this? By the way ain't no cheap batteries out there , but cheaper to buy new on Amazon than rebuilt.
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- dewalt
- replacement
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I've looked for a 1hp replacement with no luck. Anybody have a suggestion for another brand? DeWalt looks OK but, I'm not enamored with their drills. Are their routers better? Anybody tried a Rigid? Would like a new one to accept PC style template guides. So, that kinds eliminates Bosch. -
I have this Boise-Crane miter bar which is one of my favorites and it has needed a new handle for some time. I believe it is one of the few tools I have left from my grandfather. It still fits perfectly into the miter slot on both my router table and the table saw after all there years and it deserved a new handle and I needed a quick and painless turning project today. Turning is such a zen kind of thing. Paul
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- woodturning
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I built a center steady years ago. It works fine, however the wheels I used (white) were used on shower doors. No bearings. Wheels hard plastic. They worked fine, but I kept my eyes open for wheels with bearings at a good price. I found some at Amazon. They are made for printer mechanisms. They do have bearings and (not as) hard plastic wheels. I added them to my old center steady. I have NOT tried them yet, but I can not see any reason why they won't work. The one dimension I wish was smaller is the 3/8" wheel thickness. They were really cheap 5 for $7 I set the two spares down with the ruler. BIQU Big Plastic Pulley Wheel with Bearing Idler Pulley Gear Perlin Wheel for 3D Printer (Pack of 5 pcs) Visit the BIQU Store 4.4 out of 5 stars 56 ratings | 3 answered questions Price:$6.99 & FREE Returns Outer Diameter: 23.89mm Inner Diameter: 5mm Hight: 10.23mm Net Weight: 14g/pcs Color: Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJHZ42M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I have used Hut Crystal coat for years to achieve an easy beautiful instant friction finish. The last time I got some it was $16 for a small 6 oz bottle. I was going to order some more and I see the price is now $27. One time someone suggested I make my. own. (It could have also been in the old Wood forum) They combined 2 or 3 ingredients and claimed it worked as good as or better than Hut, for a fraction of the price. Any ideas?
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In my 3 car garage/shop I have 5 fluorescent 2-tube lights. Since I have been working at replacing most of our interior light bulbs with LED bulbs to save electricity and keep the house cooler, I decided to try out a new LED shop light in my shop. So I picked up a LED shop light that has 2 LED light bars that put out 5000k cool light. The cost was $32 from Sam's Club. I put the light over my primary workbench the new light really blew me away. The LED light is so much brighter than my 2 tube fluorescent lights. So I plan on replacing the other 4 fluorescent lights over the next month. In the picture you can see how much brighter the LED light is than the other fluorescent light.
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I am in the middle of another experiment on the lathe (Jet mini) and the power switch failed. Failed in the ON position. It is nothing more than a toggle switch, but is a pain to deal with. Mainly because of my ability to drop things that fall in never, never land. I unplugged and got a new one at HD. Not a direct match (never is) So I had to improvise. I made it work after fumbling and dropping things. It missed fitting in the old switch mounting by one eighth inch, after I had it all together and tried to mount it. I am frustrated and dropped some screws. Many years ago as an instrument tech, I could work for hours on the same mechanical instrument. I am not as patient now and much clumsier. So I got me a glass of iced water and got on this forum. After about 15 minutes I returned to the lathe, got a flash light and looked for dropped parts. WOW, I found the screws and pieces quickly. Sometimes you just have to chill out.
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- lathe
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I have a dozen Irwin hand clamps of all sizes and use them a lot. Over the years I have lost the yellow pads from some and other pads have become hard, I think due to glue. I have tried several places for replacement pads with no luck. Then I went to this web site; http://www.irwin.com/support-services/replacement-parts I filled out the blanks and in the description I told them how many pads I needed. In 4 days I received 4 pads of each size...........free of charge. Thought you would like to know. Ron -
Hello, My grandfather gave me all of his wood turning tools that he brought with him from overseas before moving to the greatest country, America. I’m wanting to fix up the wood lathe. Do you guys have any 1hp+ motor(s) suggestions? I have even noticed folks using motors from other types of equipment to run lathe. I’m hoping to stick around $200 range. thank you! -
I have an old Rockwell Contractor Saw that the arbor bearing is locked up. Anybody replaced one? If so, how bad a job is it? I can do it no matter how hard, but dread doing it.
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I have been working on a cross for my grandson's confirmation. I've cut and glued up some Yellow Hart and Purple Hart. Did some sanding and then to the table router, small table top from Sears. Set it up and started to adjust the height. Something fell out of the adjustment and it all came apart. It is old, but i liked it. I found a spring and during reassemble, I lost the spring, e ring and a gear. I know not where. I give up. I am thinking about a Porter Cable replacement, I don't want any more Sears tools. And so it goes.
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sanding center issues
steven newman posted a topic in Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
Have a belt/disc combo center that has a broken drive belt. 14" long, toothed belt, to be exact. Model No. 113.226423. Did a short Google-Fu Search.......anywhere from $1 per inch to $44 for ONE belt. Yikes! I only spent MAYBE $15 on the machine at a garage sale. A belt that costs more than the machine? heck, Sears Parts wanted $24 for one...IF they have one in stock. Lately i don't trust Sears any further than I can throw the store. Looking for other options right now..... Old belt blew apart at the seam. I might go and check out sweeper belts today and see what they have. Let you know what I find out. The machine comes in handy on curved items..... -
Well, not really, but they sure look and feel like new sanders! I finally bit the bullet and purchased two new pads for my Makita BO5030 ROS and my Porter Cable 330 Speed Bloc. I put this off for so long, it's criminal, I even had paper whizzing off my ROS for quite a few projects before I got off my rear and hit up Amazon for a pad for each sander. Quite inexpensive too. The removal of the old pads were easy, just a few phillip screws out and back in, the ROS had some line up issues though, but I got it figured out in seconds. Any who here are some boring pics, only a woodworkers could like these images! And I also posted some links where I purchased the pads from. My Makita with the old pad on the side, it was shot, the loops were not longer loops, it was virtually melted. I have had this sander on for hours on end in a day, and the pad surface would heat up and eventually fail. My PC 1/4 sheet sander, I love this machine, in my humble opinion they beat all others on the market for efficiency and sound quality. PORTER-CABLE 13597 Stikit Pad for Model 330 Superior Electric RSP27 5 Inch Sander Pad - Hook and Loop Replaces Makita OE # 743081-8, 743051-7 Hitachi OE # 324-209
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