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Found 32 results

  1. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The seat is weaved, and I placed the accompanying stool with it. I am pretty happy how this one turned out. I'll create plenty more, this was just too much fun.
  2. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    A wonderful project, I highly recommend anyone to build these chairs, suitable for most skill levels. The weaving in this seat was considerably more challenging than the square stools I weaved. The trapezoidal shape of the seat created some interesting challenges, but I got through them.
  3. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    This morning I put the final coat of General Finishes Gel Topcoat on our chair, it should be ready to weave the seat tomorrow, I hope!
  4. John Morris

    Shaker Rocking Chair

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Once I weave the seat into the chair, it will be striking, I am very happy with this project.
  5. John Morris

    Shaker Rocker

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I love the patina this chair gained during the finishing, the cherry just got deeper, richer and thick. I love the tone.
  6. John Morris

    Wedge Tenon Rocker Arm

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    While shaping the tenon down to fit in the through mortise at the arm of the rocker, I shaped it down a tad to small, but fortunately I was going to fit the joint with a wedge tenon anyway, so that alone took up the gap and and made it right.
  7. John Morris

    Shaping the Arm Narrow

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After I was satisfied with the tenon fit, I shaped more of the arm at the tenon area.
  8. John Morris

    Laying Out Arm Tenon

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The tenons for the arms had to be layed out and cut by hand. Since the arms are irregular in shape, the lathe could not be used to shape the tenons as I have done with all the tenons in this chair. I laid out the 5/8" tenon a tad wide to accommodate any error in my making of the tenon, I'd rather shave down, than try to make it back up.
  9. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The side view looks just as good as the front view, I am happy with the results thus far.
  10. John Morris

    Dry Fit Rocker Parts

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I dry fit the chair together and checked for fit, mortises, tenons, racking, and square, it all lined up beautifully.
  11. John Morris

    Shaker Chair Arms

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The arm's are shaped and ready for final sanding. After rough shaping the arms with the draw knife and spoke shave, I used a block of wood wrapped in 80 grit sand paper and refined the arms.
  12. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    As I chopped the mortises, I kept testing the fit, I had to chop out the mortises at an angle, so they other side of the bent slat, would meet into the opposite chair post.
  13. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The ladder back is ready to glue up, it is racked a tad, but that's expected with hand made works. Once I glue up and clamp it flat to the table top, the ladder back should set up nice and straight.
  14. John Morris

    Shaping Arms

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    The arms of the New Lebanon Transitional rocker need to be shaped by draw knife and then refined with a combination of chisels and final sanding. I am using my Ebay find, a James Swanson Draw Knife, it's a joy to use.
  15. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After each chair piece has been sanded to 600 on the lathe, I pick up a handful of shavings and push them onto the piece while it's spinning at max RPM. An instant sheen or glow appears, I enjoy this final touch before I pull it from the centers.
  16. John Morris

    Chair Posts Bent

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Cherry is a pretty brittle lumber in relation to other common North American species. But even at that, this kiln dried lumber from my local supplier bent just fine without a crack. I was surprised how pliable they were when I pulled them out of the box. The posts are 1 3/8" in diameter, the general rule is to steam lumber 1 hour per inch, I rounded and erred on the side of caution and steamed these posts for 1.5 hours. I could have bent them around a large doughnut they were so pliable. I made the blocks as an after thought on the fly as the posts were steaming, I did a dry run before this operation with just a rag and the straps and it worked ok, but I had second thoughts while the wood was steaming, so I made these blocks up for the strap to go around and I am glad I did. They worked fantastic. These posts will stay in the form for two weeks give or take a day or two.
  17. John Morris

    Back Slats in Form

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I tried this once before with these same slats, using only two clamps, and I failed miserably, so I had to put the slats back in the steamer again, and try to get the slats to cooperate in the form. This time I used many clamps, and I even clamped some supports so the forms wouldn't get wiggly and goosey on me.
  18. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    As you can see, this is a far cry from my original idea of using two clamps. The author (Kerry Pierce) of the book I am learning to build chairs from, uses a bench vise to close his forms in, that is an excellent idea, there is no wrestling, no fuss, just insert the steamed slats in the form at the bench vise, and close the vise. I will need to purchase a bench vise with the screw longer than 10" as that is the thickness of my form with the slats in them, pre-bend. That'll have to wait though, as funding becomes available for such a tool. Eventually I'll have to have several bench vises to accommodate the construction of various chairs at once. These slats are a quarter inch thick. The formula for steam bending wood is 1 hour per inch, thus 15 minutes should suffice for these slats, but the author steams his slats for a half hour, so I did as well. I am not that good yet that I can start steering away from sage advice from a professional post and rung chair builder like Kerry Pierce.
  19. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After I ripped out my back slats, and milled them down to 1/4", I sanded to 220 and then laid them out next to the the steam bending form they will go into after a they spend some time in the steam box. I thought naively I could get away with just two big clamps to close the form, but I was wrong.
  20. John Morris

    Rear Posts in Steamer

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I even put the posts in the steam box just because, I don't know, but I felt like I needed to before I fired up the steamer, I just wanted to see them in the box! I pulled them back out before I fired up the steamer and waited about 15 minutes for the box to heat up before returning the posts back inside.
  21. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Before bending the post I set them in place, just to get a visual of what I am doing, and to picture in my head what needs to be done when I pull them out and set them in this form.
  22. From the album: Shaker Furniture

    I sanded the post to 220, I did not get too carried away with the sanding on the rear posts, since it's going into the steamer, the grain will raise anyway. After I took the post to 220 I marked a couple lines where the rear and side rung holes must be drilled, and where the back slats will have to be mortised in by hand.
  23. John Morris

    Chair Post Blank

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    After ripping my post blank to 1 5/8" square by 45" long, I had to flatten it on the jointer, after ripping the post blank out, it stressed and bent a tad, the blank should be absolutely straight before setting it up in the lathe.
  24. John Morris

    Back Slats and Posts

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    Ok, we are all set, and ready to steam and bend the first parts for this rocking chair. The back slats will be bent pretty sharply to accommodate the back of a person, and the posts will have a gentle bend that will lay back a tad for a person to lay back in as well.
  25. John Morris

    Lay Out Rung Holes

    From the album: Shaker Furniture

    This is my story stick for my layouts. I used the line I drew at the lathe, then intersected that line with the lines on my story stick to layout the rung holes.
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