Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'mission'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Woodworking Discussion Forum
    • Introduce Yourself
    • General Woodworking
    • Wood Turners
    • Finishing
    • Wood Carving
    • Hand Tools
    • Scroll Sawing
    • CNC
    • Shopsmith
    • Show Us Your Woodworking Shops
    • Machinery, Tools, Research, Reviews and Safety
    • Plans and Software
    • The Veterans Corner and Causes Forum
  • The Old Machinery Discussion Forum
    • Old Woodworking Machinery
    • Old Metalworking Machinery
    • Old Machinery Operating and Restoration Tips
    • Old Machinery Badges and Decals
    • Old Machinery Swap and Sale, Classifieds
    • Old Machinery Hitching Post
    • Old Woodworking Machinery Archive
  • The Home Improvement Forum
    • Home Improvement
    • Patio and Outdoors
  • The Scrap Bin
    • Free for All
    • The Patriot's Pulse
    • Announcements
    • Network Tutorials
    • Bugs and Issues

Categories

  • Honoring the Fallen
  • Warrior's Christmas

Calendars

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Book and Literature
  • CNC Files
    • CAD Files
    • CAM Files
    • CNC Reference and Tutorials
  • General Woodworking
    • Shop Charts
    • Shop Jigs
    • Shop Furniture
    • Arts and Crafts
    • Furnishings
    • Musical Instruments
    • Wooden Toys
    • Yard and Outdoors
  • Home Improvement
  • Old Machinery Manuals
  • Old Machinery Badge & Decal Images
    • Beaver Power Tools-Callander Foundry
    • Delta Specialty Co.
    • Delta Mfg. Co.
    • Delta Milwaukee
    • Delta Rockwell
    • Walker Turner
    • Sears Companion
    • Sears Craftsman
    • Sears Dunlap
  • Sketchup Sharing Center
    • Furnishings
    • Shop Jigs
    • Arts and Crafts
    • Sketchup Tutorials
  • Scroll Saw Patterns

Blogs

  • Building A Walnut Shotgun Case
  • Military Challenge Coin Display Build
  • SJUSD Veterans Recieve Plaques from Patriot Tigers
  • The Pastor’s Table or I Think My Sister Is Trying To Buy My Way Into Heaven
  • Small Patch Musings and Such
  • Steve Krumanaker
  • Christmas 2016
  • Photography
  • Cherry Entertainment Center
  • Another Church Table
  • Inside Out Turning
  • Segmented Turning
  • Canon Ball Bed
  • Situation Normal, All Fired Up
  • DUST COLLECTORS 101
  • Workbench PIP
  • Republishing the French Rolling Pin blog
  • Thickness Sander
  • Shopsmith lathe setup
  • Drying Turned Wood
  • New Projects, shop stuff, new tools,
  • Bill Kappel
  • Bowl Drying Adventures
  • Chess set

Product Groups

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Members
  • Sponsors
  • Administrators
  • Forum Hosts

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


First Name


My Location


My Woodworking Interests


My skill level is


Website URL


Favorite Quote


AIM


MSN


ICQ


Gmail


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Facebook URL


Twitter Feed URL


Twitter Feed URL


My Clubs and Organizations

Found 11 results

  1. More progress has been made on the chest of drawers. Last time I made a post I left you with this pic. Now I need to make the inner front and rear center stiles and the front upper rail. The front upper rail is a part of a dovetail joint. I started making the rail dovetail by sawing a cheek and two shoulder cuts. Then I cut the dovetail profile using my table saw fitted with a 10-degree bevel saw blade and a shop made jig. After two cuts and some chisel clean-up I have a nice dovetail. Then I laid the front upper rail across the top of the two front legs and scribed their location using a scribing knife. I used a small saw to help with the chisel work. I found chiseling into white oak difficult, so I regrouped and used my router to make the socket for the dovetail. I’m happy with the initial fit. After a little tweaking with a chisel, it will fit nicely. Dry fitting with all the stiles and rails in place. Sorry that I did not take pics for the inner front and rear center stiles. The inner stiles will carry the weight from the #3,4,5,& 6 drawer slides. The front stile has twin tenons on each end and twin mortises routed for 3 rails. The rear stile has two half-lap joints and three single mortises. The rear inner stile will be glued and screwed to the #3 & #6 rear rails during the final glue-up assembly. Locating the mortises was a meticulous effort. I use a template and a compression router bit to route the profile to all the lower rails. Time to dry fit all the pieces and get ready to trial install the under-mount draw slides. The drawer slide will attach to the front leg and the rear rails using a bracket, after the rear legs are notched for each bracket, to allow for the proper clearances. I will need to rout the twelve notches into the two rear legs and the inner rear rail. Another shop-aid or template is made to help route the twelve notches. I used my mortising jig to hold the legs and the template. I used a ½” OD guide busing in my router along with a 1/8” dia bit. The drawer slide is temporarily located looking for positive clearances. I made shop aids to help hold the slide in the rear in the correct plane. I made another shop-aid to locate the front of the drawer slide 1-1/8” from the front of the front legs. The Chest of drawer top boards are milled to final thickness (7/8") and glued together. The top still needs to be cut to size. Next, making the L-hand door. More mortise and tenon joinery need to be made for the door construction. Doesn’t it look pretty? I have a plan and a mock-up for the door pull installation. AGAIN, thanks for looking. Danl
  2. The past weeks a little more progress has was made making the Mission style chest-of-drawers. Thanks for looking. Danl Mission style chest-of-drawers-1 Used a template to aid in making the corbels. It is the same template that was used for the bed. The top boards have been rough milled to 1" thick. Final thickness will be ~7/8". I have a good chop saw but not a good method to make repeat cuts to cut the rails to final length. So, I put together two shop made tools and had great results. Time to cut the twin tenons using another shop-made jig. I used a combination of two shims to get the desired spacing between the tenons and tenon thicknesses. They are the same shims used with the mortising jig. Test fit into a set-up board. Nice fit. Pro-tip: when testing the fit for twin tenons, have the mortises longer than the tenons because you want to verify the fit between the tenons, not the fit of the length of the tenons. Twin tenon before clean-up. Twin tenon after clean-up and making the tenon ends round using a bench chisel and a light sanding. Many of the casework mortises and tenons are complete. I know I still have more to make. Time for dry-fit. Thanks again. Danl
  3. I started the build of the mission style chest-of-drawers with QSWO for the primary and poplar for the secondary wood. The drawers will rest on under-mount soft closed drawer slides. My wife wanted 3 drawers behind the door. The door will have the same motif as the nightstand and the bed. I am not certain if the motif will be applied on the lower drawers. I hope to finish the corbels and route the mortises, into the four legs, for the twin tenons next week. The drawer heights are (4) 6", (1) 7", and (1) 8". Danl I use my shop-made-mortising jig to route the mortises into the legs for the needed mortises for the sides. I use my shop-made tenoning jig to saw the tenon cheeks. Fits together the 1st dry fit as planned. The side panels were made from ½” book matched, solid wood. Ripped sawn from 5/4 bd. The panels have a recess to allow for a 1/16" gap. Thanks for looking. Danl
  4. This will likely be the final post for the mission style bed but hopefully more posts will follow for the mission style chest-of-drawers; all apart of the mission style bedroom set. The bed was put into the spare bedroom yesterday alongside the mission style nightstand. Thanks for looking. Danl Posting log for the Mission style Bedroom set journey 1. Help me with my lumber hauling Feb. 15, 2022 2. White oak is here Feb. 28, 2023 3. Moxon vise May 15, 2022 4. TS - tenoning jig May 29, 2023 5. Double tenons June 5, 2022 6. Mission Bedroom set – making progress July 23, 2022 7. Mission Bedroom set – making progress – take 2 Sept. 18, 2022 8. Inlay lines & dots Sept. 30, 2022 9. Mission Bedroom set – Nightstand door Oct. 9, 2022 10. Table saw made dovetail joinery for a drawer Nov. 13, 2022 11. Mission Bedroom set – Nightstand is complete Dec. 23, 2022 12. Mission style bed – prototype March 7, 2023 13. Mission style bed – production -1 May 23, 2023 14. Mission style bed – production – 2 June 3, 2023 15. Mission style bed – production – 3 June 15, 2023 16. Mission style bed – production – 4 June 21, 2023 17. Mission style bed – production – 5 July 22, 2023 18. Mission style bed – production – final Aug. 13, 2023
  5. A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl I do not have a pic of the side-rail cleat before glue-up to the side rail. This is a pic of the final assembly of the side rail with the cleat being attached. I made a simple jig to help make the cleat dove-tail. The dove-tail will accept the bed slats. The cleat is being held in my Moxon vise. I removed most of the material with the table saw and then used a router with a trim bit. The temporary tenons in the side of the rails will aid with the spray finishing. The rail slats are made from poplar wood. Sample board showing the progression of the finishing process. Raw QSWO, one coat of Transtint medium brown in DA, then sprayed with 1-1/2# seal coat, then one coat of General Finishes Antique Walnut, then sprayed with 1-1/2# seal coat, then three oats of Sherwin Williams Sher-wood Kem Aqua plus (WB lacquer). I spray in my garage and the weather is hot. Cure time is in the kitchen. Now time to assemble the footboard. The first dry-run took 1 hour by myself. My wife and I were able to get the spindles glued in 10 min and final glue-up in 1/2 hour. I used Titebond hide glue for the adhesive. The two pine strips aided in holding the spindles in location while flipping the top rail and strips 90-deg and then positioning the lower rail. The footboard had 68 joints. The fit-up of the spindles to the rails were fairly tight before adding the glue. The pine strip closes to the lower rail was made 1/64"-1/32" thinner than the gap measurement to aid in the assembly. All of the spindle were numbered and had a reference mark to assure clocking orientation to get the "pretty side" on the correct side. Numerous glue aids were made. Most were painted red. The next day I glued the headboard assembly. It is similar to the footboard except with the addition of a 3rd rail and longer legs. To aid in the assy, I made the tenons on the lower rail 1/4" shorter than the upper and mid rail. I also made the tenons on the middle spindle, or center slat, 1/4" longer, top and bottom, than the other spindles for both the footboard and headboard. Now time to add felt pads to the bottom of all the legs. I still have to spray finish to the top cap of the footboard and headboard, spray finish to the side rails, and spray shellac on the bed slats. All of this before final assembly. I did trial install the side rails to the footboard and headboard. Pics will be forthcoming. Thanks for looking. Danl
  6. A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl Qty (60) 7/8" x 7/8" spindles with 1/2" x 5/8" x 5/8" tenons, both ends. 1/8" x 1/8" chamfers routered on the bottoms of the legs. Headboard dry-fitted. The 1st time I tried the dry-fit it took 1 hr. This time it took 10 min. It should be adequate time with the Titebond hide glue. Headboard, footboard and side-rails dry fitted with the slip tenon also not glued yet. Epoxied the weld nut to the bottom of the slip tenon Glued the slip tenon into the mortise and drill hole for peg (belt and suspender approach). The peg will be hidden when the headboard and footboards are assembled. Used the cut-off to help make a gluing caul. I attached cork the side that touches the corbel. The corbel is splined to the leg. Getting ready to apply finish. I will be finishing most parts separately. The finish schedule is (1) coat dye, seal coat, (1) coat stain, seal coat, and then 2-3 coats of WB lacquer. Thanks for looking. Danl
  7. A few more progress pics of the Mission style bed build. Danl I added a profile to the footboard lower rail, similar to the design feature on the night stand. Clamped a router jig to the side-rail for the 5/8" x 4-1/2" x 7/8" deep mortise which goes into the end of the side rail. Using a router guide bushing and a spiral 1/2" up-cut router bit. Clamped the router jig for the mounting hardware access 'T-slot Clamped the router jig to router the mortice for the T-slot cover plate. Added identification marking to the side-rail. Added the identification markings to the legs. I added masking tap to the TS fence to allow me to remove 0.004" from the slip tenon material to allow for a nice fit. Temporary installed the slip tenons into their respect leg mortice after holes were drilled for the attachment bolt and hidden encapsulated nut. Thanks for looking. Danl
  8. Early March I shared with you a prototype of a leg assembly for a Mission style bed. Much progress has been made. The design for the bed intentionally has many of the same dimensions between the headboard and the footboard. I used a router to make all my mortises. The 1/2” leg-to-headboard and footboard rail mortises were made with the aid of my mortising jig and the 5/8”and 1-1/4” mortises required new jigs to allow me to use a router bushing. I used the mortising jig clamping surface and clamps to hold the legs when the mortises were routed. . When I sawed the HB & FB rail checks, I used my TS tenoning jig. The boards cleared the ceiling by ½.” More pics to show in the next post. Danl
  9. I am making a Mission style bed, from quartered sawn white oak, for my wife. The design was inspired by Tom McLaughlin, Jeremy Zietz, Kevin Rodel, Jeff Miller, Fine Woodworking magazine, WOOD magazine, and Woodsmith magazine. I hope it is not a lesson in making expensive scrap. I finished the matching nightstand a few months back. You can see it here. This design allows for a queen size box spring and mattress and will have the same veneer and mother-of-pearl inlay as the nightstand. To help me with the joinery, I made a full-size prototype of one leg and its interfaces. The design uses grade-8 bolts and weld nuts to attach the side-rails to the legs. I incorporated concentric mortises and a slip tenon so the bolts would not be visible from the front. The tenon will be glued into the leg. The side-rail to leg appears to be a little complicated, but with a few shop made jigs it all should fit together. The leg double mortise requires three jigs. The 1st jig is used to route the 5/8” mortise for the slip tenon. The 2nd small indexing jig positions into the 5/8” mortise and then the 3rd jig is positioned over top the small jig. The 3nd jig is clamped secure and then the 2nd jig is removed. The 3rd jig is used to route the 1-1/4” mortise, which will accept the side-rail. The bolt & washer T-slot mortise and the cover plate mortise are routed using separate jigs. These two jig are located about the rail center line and the T-slot jig has a locator on the back side to assure the longitudinal position. The mortises routed in the end of the side-rails uses the 1st jig with a ½” thick shim. I plan to use heavy duty furniture levelers in the bottom of each leg to assist with any unevenness in the bedroom floor. Handling and correctly positioning the long and heavy lumber will be a challenge for me in my small basement shop. Thanks for looking. Danl
  10. I thought I would share a few progress pics. Just need to add glue and a few more hundred items to complete. Thanks for looking. Danl This is a sample for the final finish schedule. I will be using a modified Jeff Jewitt receipt. Stain with TransTint Medium Brown diluted at 1 oz dye to 1 qt. water Apply one coat Zinssar Bulls eye sanding sealer. Let dry and scuff sand with 320 grit Apply General Finishes Antique Walnut Gel Stain. Wipe clean and let dry overnight. Apply 2 or 3 coats Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Clear (WB lacquer) Top of the night stand after it was drum sanded. Still in rough dimn. Just a few rails with single and double tenons. I have (52) mortises and tenons. Twelve are double tenons. Floor subassembly - dry fit Side subassembly Side subassembly looking inside/outside Door subassembly
×
×
  • Create New...