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Showing results for tags 'metric'.
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Spent most of the day "screwing around." #8 x 2.75" w/ #2 Robertson needing countersink, #6 x 5/8 w/ #2 Squipps, #1 Squipps, or #1 Robertson, #6 x 1.25" w/ #2 Robertson. Full extension 12" & 14" side glides with 1/2" extra clearance on hinge side, 3.5" from top, 2.75" from bottom, with width +0 to -1/16". 1/2" dovetails 2" on center, 3/4" dovetails 3" on center. Cup hinges, face frame, 3/8" overlay, self closing, w/ one set of four 35mm holes, 22.5 mm from edge 16" on center, 4" from ends, the other 35mm holes, 22.5 mm from edge set so side glides did not hit on the way out and miss face frame on bottom. 🤔 My head hurts. Last week, I did 140 1/4" shelf pin holes, 32mm apart on the top half of this unit.
I have a problem with interval. If I’m applying 12 somethings to a 48” board, I goof up the intervals every time. Part of the problem is figuring out the interval spacings, and part is physically laying out the intervals by progressively adding one increment to each tick mark. I am ALWAYS off at the end. So much for talent. I now use a variation of the “story stick” approach, but via calculation, and then a much simpler layout method. I use a spreadsheet to figure out the interval spacing (e.g. 4.13” between dots). I then figure out where the first location/mark will be, and then create a table of locations, each incrementing by the interval (4.13). The computer keeps the numbers in complete accuracy, in decimal form so I don’t have to calc 1/32’s etc. Once I have the table complete of the locations of each tick mark, I convert all the numbers to metric because using mm (and a metric tape) is very accurate and easy to mark. You can read a metric tape to 1/2 mm. I can then either just print the table of mm locations, or copy them from the screen. Although it’s made a bit of process out of what should be (for competent people!) a snap, it saves me time in the end by eliminating measurement errors. And I don’t snap pencils in half. Much.
Earlier this spring I made a few picks at yard sales and the "Flea Market Warehouse." Pictures were taken, but things got busy with the wreck, dealing with the that, kids activities, mowing, mower repair, more mowing, etc. well you get the idea... Anyways, since things are a little less hectic, a few more shots of the every growing "treasure trove." I'll try to be considerate and only post a couple threads a day less I bore you...Thanks for looking. These items were in the Craftsman Router case below...$2...I've hidden the router plate inserts from myself since this picture...could use them since I misplaced the ones that came with my router table The Massey-Ferguson magnetic clip was an extra 75 cents. It's from an area dealership from back in the 60's-70's...compliments my John Deere smalls collection I had an old school Craftsman router which needed a case...fit perfectly in this one...it also needed the base and collet wrench This collection set me back $13.25 with tax. Like new, 1/4" drive Craftsman ratchet, with full set of 1/4" deep metric sockets, the extension and a shallow well, 1/4" dr. 10 mm socket...The picture of them is after clean-up and time at the buffer; T-15 Craftsman driver...came in handy during the Jeep Ignition switch replacement; Kobalt 10" pipe wrench with minimal use; picture of it is after clean-up; a coupe more collet wrenches for ???; faucet wrench; the rust on the handle swing has been removed and polished since this; Stanley 3 pc chisel set minus the 1" The shaft stop collar has a 5/8" bore ID...I've used it in a couple of temporary fashions, but it became a valuable asset when I figured out how it could be used to repair a mower deck idler arm. I bought a couple more from the local Fastenal, welded to the idler arm and fixed a poor design, plaguing problem on my J.D. F510...Saved about $35 and works better. The stud is 5/16" NC threads with a 7/16" hex...I'll use it for something sooner or later. Will need a little work; the 3/4" might have been used to remove siding nails, IDK; other than the edges, both still have the protective varnish on the shafts
A while back Schnewj gave a tip in the "Measurements" topic about using metric for easily dividing measurements - it is super easy to divide 500 mm in half rather than 19 11/16". I used this tip in the shop a few times here in the past week and it is soooo easy to use. Great TIP!!
I picked one up at the BORG when I was trying to figure out how to throw up a peaked roof on my shed build. I paid about $39 for the "Construction Master 5" It was handy. I could have done it using CAD or a trig formula book but I wanted to try it this way. But it has since migrated into the shop and I gotta say I really, really, really like the thing. I can convert back and forth from all systems of measurement CM MM Inch Decimal whatever. I think in Decimal and prefer inch standard but my tapes are all in fractions. And once in a while I'm dealing with metric and it gets crazy. This thing sorts it all out for me. I hit the convert button and then the measurement standard I want to see the dimension in and I get it. I keep finding new uses for this thing. A while ago I built a sine plate. Two hunks of ply with a piano hinge. I built if as a drill press tool. But have found that the set up is a bit tricky. For those who don't know a Sine plate is just that two plates with some type of hinge and two round bars down a specific distance away from the center of the hinge. You do the Trig and figure how what size gauge blocks to put in between the bars to get a dead on accurate angle. Set up was a bit tricky until today, when I grabbed the calculator and entered 10" hit RUN and then entered the 22.5 and hit PITCH. Then I pressed the RISE key and lo I knew exactly how far apart the ply boards needed to be at the 10" mark to give me precisely 22.5 Degrees. If you hate math but love complex design you might think about picking up this calculator.
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