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Found 22 results

  1. Just think, in less than 2 weeks, we will enter Daylight Saving Time- for those who live in states that utilize this archaic standard. This sees to sum it up- Our Patriot Turners- Member @Thad posted a new project of some handles he was turning. Thad also asked our turners about making ferrules. The handles turned out fantastic! Check out the post here- @Ron Altier Started a discussion concerning using gloves while turning and if that practice was safe. Lots of thoughts and discussion followed- Ron also posted a question about "pressure turning". Our turners offered their opinions and some ideas. New member @doublej posted the most awesome mobile turner's tool station. Everything in one convenient place. Check out all the pix in his post and try not to slobber all over the tools in his shop- @HandyDan created some center pins for his live tailstock center. While doing some research he came across interesting information on Morse Tapers. Check out Dan's post for all the details- @Gerald continues to work on his Offering Plates> He continues his post about the design. Read more comments about this project- Gerald also posted some of the off-center turnings he made with his new off-center chuck. These certainly are gorgeous.- See more of what Gerald has done in his post- What’s Coming Up- Click on the above image for the link to more information and registration. For The Newbies- I regularly receive emails from Cook Woods. Included in one was this link to an article from Woodturning. If you are considering turning pens from kits, there is some good information here. https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/beginners-guides/20-steps-to-turning-better-pens/ Expand Your Horizons- @Stick486 gave us a heads up on this Turning Club's site. Check out the gallery page. There are some absolutely beautiful pieces- https://www.gvwg.ca/ Recently we have seen River Tables being built. Patriot member @Gene Howe created a beautiful table a while back. Our friends from Easy Wood Tools ( @Jim from Easy Wood Tools ) recommended a video on making a "River Mallet". Check out the use of those fantastic Easy Wood Tools and chuck! New Turning Items- The folks at Wood Turners Wonders are offering a line of CA glues and epoxy from Stick Fast. I have not tried them. Looks like they have quite a few options. https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/adhesives Everything Else- Last week, @Gerald asked how I cut the threads for the cones I made. Being the parsimonious (for @Gene Howe ) person I am, I decided to make the tap to cut the threads. I don't remember where I read about this idea but it works- Dremel tool and disk. The bolt matches the threads of the center. Grind flutes, I made 4 flutes Drill the hole- In this case, I didn't have the correct sized bit to get the best bite on the threads but it was pretty close- Slowly thread the "tap" into the hole backing off to break the chips. Tapped hole. The correct bit size for 3/4 x 10 threads 21/32" but the closest I have was a 3/4 forstner bit. The threads don't have quite as much "meat" to them but it works OK. I've also made wooden chucks for the headstock in the same manner. My lathe has a 1" x 8 spindle and I was lucky enough to find a used tap and had the correct bit size. You can see the threads look "deeper" While I was playing, I finally set up a way to keep some of the chuck jaws and tools handy. A Harbor Freight magnet bar! Go HF!! Safe turning
  2. From over working the Single Brain Cell Sketch-up. It was on over load trying to figure out a tool box build. Had a blank of spalted....something or other Well, this is the leftovers. It was 22" long, cut it in half. Drug the old Craftsman T rail lathe up off the storage crates, and fastened it down to my bench. Only place I have down there to run a lathe. Kept looking through stuff, trying to find the "pattern' i wanted. Got the blank mounted on the lathe, and turned round. Chippy stuff, no shavings. Got a start at just winging it from memory, and looked over and found the pattern. Handle was a bit too scrawny for my hand, so the new one was to be FATTER. Sanded things down, parted off the one end. Added an oil finish, and tok everything out side to dry in the sun Old mallet is laying down on the job, again. had to wipe down the NEW mallet one more time ah, that is looking a bit better. Not too bad for a rookie? FIRST mallet I have ever turned. I inherited the old one...
  3. My haul from last weekend, this is just a partial inventory of what I brought home. I only had to clean and clear a widows garage and out building area. She was a complete sweetheart, I loved hearing the stories of her husband while my son and I worked. The above is just a fraction of what was bestowed upon me. How I came into this, her neighbors are lifelong family friends of ours, and long time friends of hers. She asked our friends what she should do with her late husband's tools, garage sell or give away to someone who will honor the inventory, our friends told her that they knew the perfect recipient of her generosity. Me. So this is how I came into the picture. I have a second Uhaul trip to make down to San Diego to help clear more out. Most of those boxes on my bench, have the same type of valuables you see in the open boxes I showed. Christmas in August.
  4. I have this old brass Gray Canada mallet that belonged to a beloved older machinist we worked with. It has been given to a coworker for remembrance. it has no handle , I cannot find any illustration of it anywhere and hope somebody can help me to reproduce a handle for it and pit it back in service. Does anyone know what the handle should look like? image:3618 image:3619 image:3620 image:3621
  5. John Morris

    Hand Tools

    This image is an open sourced image uploaded to this community for re-use within our community graphics.

    © Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)

  6. I had a little fun in the shop this morning. Soon I'll be firing up some chairs to build, and right now I am kind of jigging up and tooling up for this big project. Besides the jigs my son and I have been working on, today I got in the shop and made one complete mallet, and I have a couple more in the wings that need to be made as well. Before I took these images I had already made my layout lines and cut the mallet handle slots on my table saw. I simply set my table saw t-slot miter to 4 degrees and cut the slots in from one side then I set it at 4 degrees the other way and cut the other slot in the other side, then I hogged it out with several passes over the table saw blade. My 12" blades have 1/4" wide teeth so it didn't take long to hog the slots out. I laid out 3 mallets and gang sawed them. I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up. I cut my lay out lines to produce the mallet blank halves. The key angle here is 5 degrees on the face. This allows your mallet to be used flush on a bench without your knuckles hitting the bench top but at the same time to have a sweet spot at the arc of your swing or tapping. Blanks ready to be glued up The handles are just dry fit into the slots. To get a great fit I had to sneak up on the handle widths, as not all handle slots in each mallet were the same as the next, because I cut these on the table saw without any jigs, just eyeballing lines is all. So each mallet was a tad different. I had to plane each handle to fit each slot right. I'll have a better assembly process next time, I plan on making many of these and pass them out as gifts and possibly sell them as well. A dry fit looking at the top of the mallet, the slot is tapered, so the bottom is tight and snug, the top is flared out leaving room for the wedges to secure the mallet. When I do these again I'll cut the slots so there is not much of a flare out at the top, it's really not needed. I think a 2 degree slot flare would suffice next time instead of the 4 degree. Lots of glue in around the handle, and on the wedges, I wanted the entire slot filled with either wood or glue, securing it for life. I tapped the outer wedges in just a tad, and I drove home the two center wedges pretty hard. Keep in mind, if you make a mallet, the wedges must be tapped in perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting the wood. Cleaned up the glue a tad I used my bow arc to make the arc on the top of the mallet. Was an arc needed? No, but the mallet looks better with some shape to it. The arc All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper. The finished mallet at the right, and my two roughs waiting in the wings on the left. I put a very heavy coat of Watco Danish Oil on and wiped off. Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting. It's hard to see, but the chamfers I put into the handle and the edges of the head, are less than perfect, but that's alright, it's a mallet! The most difficult part was shaping the handle with my draw knife, ash is so brittle and grainy, it shapes horribly with hand tools, so I had to follow up my draw knifed handle with a card scraper. I'll be finishing the other two tomorrow. The main reason I built this mallet was for my chairs, I can't use a regular steel hammer without leaving marks, and a rubber mallet bounces too much. I already gave this mallet a test drive and I also used it on some chisels, I love it. I did not use any plans, I just read up on the required angle of the face of the mallet, and made my mallet thicker than the average. Most mallets I looked at were in the 2 3/4" thickness range, I made mine at 3 1/4", and I am glad I did, it has a nice big face. Thanks for following along!
  7. I really enjoy making these mallets. Something about it that is very relaxing. I'll just have to find some owners for em since I can only use one at a time! Here are my first two. Just doing a hit and run topic from my shop. Don't you just love how you can start topics and upload images all from a smart phone in our community. The software we are using is most excellent.
  8. John Morris

    Chamfering the Edges

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    All the edges of the mallet were chamfered with my block plane and the handle of the mallet of was shaped using my draw knife and a card scraper.
  9. John Morris

    Just a Fun Image

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Here is a fun picture showing the hand tools I used to help make this mallet, it took a combination of my table saw to make the slots, the shoulder plane to clean up the slots, the miter saw to cut the blanks at 5 degrees, and my hand tools to shape and make it interesting.
  10. John Morris

    Ash Mallet is Done!

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    The finished mallet at the right, and my two roughs waiting in the wings on the left. I put a very heavy coat of Watco Danish Oil on and wiped off.
  11. John Morris

    The Arc

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    The arc.
  12. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I used my bow arc to make the arc on the top of the mallet. Was an arc needed? No, but the mallet looks better with some shape to it.
  13. John Morris

    Cleaned up Glue

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Cleaned up the glue a tad
  14. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Lots of glue in around the handle, and on the wedges, I wanted the entire slot filled with either wood or glue, securing it for life. I tapped the outer wedges in just a tad, and I drove home the two center wedges pretty hard. Keep in mind, if you make a mallet, the wedges must be tapped in perpendicular to the grain to avoid splitting the wood.
  15. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    A dry fit looking at the top of the mallet, the slot is tapered, so the bottom is tight and snug, the top is flared out leaving room for the wedges to secure the mallet. When I do these again I'll cut the slots so there is not much of a flare out at the top, it's really not needed. I think a 2 degree slot flare would suffice next time instead of the 4 degree.
  16. John Morris

    Test Fit

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    The handles are just dry fit into the slots. To get a great fit I had to sneak up on the handle widths, as not all handle slots in each mallet were the same as the next, because I cut these on the table saw without any jigs, just eyeballing lines is all. So each mallet was a tad different. I had to plane each handle to fit each slot right. I'll have a better assembly process next time, I plan on making many of these and pass them out as gifts and possibly sell them as well.
  17. John Morris

    Mallet Heads

    From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Blanks ready to be glued up
  18. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cut my lay out lines to produce the mallet blank halves. The key angle here is 5 degrees on the face. This allows your mallet to be used flush on a bench without your knuckles hitting the bench top but at the same time to have a sweet spot at the arc of your swing or tapping.
  19. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    Before I took these images I had already made my layout lines and cut the mallet handle slots on my table saw. I simply set my table saw t-slot miter to 4 degrees and cut the slots in from one side then I set it at 4 degrees the other way and cut the other slot in the other side, then I hogged it out with several passes over the table saw blade. My 12" blades have 1/4" wide teeth so it didn't take long to hog the slots out. I laid out 3 mallets and gang sawed them.
  20. From the album: Big Ash Mallet

    I cleaned up the slots with shoulder plane, the slots were heavily kerfed so I used the shoulder plane to knock the kerfs down, not all the way, but just enough to clean it up.
  21. Pulled a late nighter. Wanted to get the LAST of the mortises chopped out. Got frame #2 out of the clamps. Clamped it down to the bench's top. Parked the shop stool where I could sit and chop. Yep, I was going to plunk my behind right down there and chop away. Trying to help the back a bit.. Laid out the first part, making sure it was the one that went there, had to keep checking the other frame to make sure. Started to mark a number and letter in a sharpie, just to tell me where each end of each part went where.....been known to get that sort of thing Bass Ackwards... Had to adjust it a bit. Laid out the toys...er...TOOLS for the job.. Just a chisel and a mallet, nothing fancy. I did have a "Bullpen" set up, for other sizes as needed.. This was after the first mortise was done and fitted. Dog holes are nice, they can either hold a chisel from rolling onto the floor, or they allow all those small chips to fall through to my nice, clean floor... After each mortise was done, I'd either rotate the frame around where I could get to the next spot, or just test fit. a bit. Got three done, got the parts sitting where the needed to be, grabbed the other frame, just a test fit, for now... Not too hateful? Then I had to take the frame back off, rotate the mess one more time. I also had to move my seat to the new location.....chop out #4 mortise, and fit the last part. Then the frame came back on to the pile of parts, final test fit of the table's base. Then pile the rest of the parts on top, as The Boss doesn't like MY stuff sitting on HER Washer... I think I'll called it a night. Maybe a glue up tomorrow.....I also have some special corner brackets to use. Might just keep things square that way. yeah, yeah, that one corner is leaning a bit, a glue up will fix that right up..might just have enough clamps to do the next step......maybe. Stay tuned.....
  22. Well, my back is giving me a bit of trouble.....decided to try a bit of sawdust making, until the back decides otherwise.... Had the lines already laid out. I just used a 1/2" dovetail bit to set the bevel gauge at the right angle.. On the way down to the Dungeon Shop, happen to see a little Panel saw, decided to see how it would cut. Saw is a 10 ppi "ClearCut" brand, from a company in Cleveland,OH. A little wax on the plate, and away we go.. this thing cuts fast! Even faster if I use the entire saw. I tried to at least split the lines, with maybe a bit to the waste side... A 10 ppi saw, doing rip cuts? Works for me. Seemed to cut a lot faster than my Disston Backsaw would. Ok, I clamped the plank to the benchtop, grabbed a few chisels and a mallet.. The trick here is to just go halfway through. popping out the waste as I went. Then flip it over, and come in from the other side. Wind up something like this.. It will need a bit of fine tuning, but, now I can mark the lines for the tails. And mark which side of what lines to cut on. handsaw again? Ehhhh,not this time.. The areas with the "X" is where I need to cut, LEAVING the lines. I am too used to split a line with a handsaw, but with a bandsaw, I can see the lines, and leave them. Then that chisel stuff again Halfway there. On the left side? wasn't quite sure about how little wood would be left. Adjust the line, and cut in the waste side. Then chopped CAREFULLY to get this tail board ready to flip over.. Not too bad? Time for a test fit, to see how much needs trimmed up.. Top and bottom edges will get planed flat, when things are glued up. Looks like I need a bit of trimming so the tails will settle down a bit lower onto the pins. Both sides splay out about 5 degrees or so. Back was acting up, and I still had to walk up the stairs out of the shop. Flipped the fitted parts over, so they'd sit better on the bench.. Back is saying it is done for the night, I might try again tomorrow....we'll see. Got three more corners to do.....
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