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View File Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Simple Wood Joints This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Simple wood joints for the every day woodworker, a great series and examples from this classic magazine. Submitter John Morris Submitted 09/06/2021 Category Shop Charts
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This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Simple wood joints for the every day woodworker, a great series and examples from this classic magazine. -
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/04/28/awesome-joinery-for-diy-projects
- 12 replies
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- biscuit
- pocket screws
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I'm sure glad I can learn a lot about woodworking on the internet. Here's a couple of the first few hits on "types of wood joints" I am going to practice making dovetials [sic] like this and get a good, strong joint. Seems kind of wasteful of wood, though. I will have to wait until I have some turkey legs before I can get a tendon for a mortise and tendon [sic] joint, too. They obviously stole the above from Bob Vila (or vice-versa) I think I will also make some of these very strong dovetail joints. (found at another site 8 joints you need to know) And I am going to look for some of those marvelous square profile biscuits, but I may need to change the cutter on my biscuit joiner machine. Trying to figure out the difference between a miter joint and a mitered butt joint, too. And your standard dowel joint, described as, "You’ll find dowel joints on woodworking items where visible screws or nails are not desirable, such as high-end cabinetry, bookcases, and custom stairways." This is a very attractive and strong joint that I'd expect to see on high-end cabinetry. All can say is, "Geez, glad I have 40 years experience."
- 31 replies
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What would be an easy 90 degree joint besides just screwing/nailing the two together at the ends (one overlapping the other)? Butt joints? I don't have a draw saw (whatever that japanese saw is called). I do have a jig saw and a hack saw.
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From the album: Shaker Furniture
After about an hour of steaming the chair posts, the joints in the box starting acting up as I expected. They expanded and warped, but surprisingly maintained a seal. The box held up wonderfully. -
It's done, and delivered to the owner lastnight. It turned out really nice, the chair is nice and tight now, and I steel wooled it clean of dirt and smooted out imperfections, then I applied a very liberal coat of BLO and let dry for 15 minutes and rubbed off The next evening I rubbed it out with Liberon Black Bison Wax, this really is the final finish when it comes to any work I do. Finished work does not leave my shop without a coat of wax, the wax gives an overall warmth and eveness to the project, not too mention the Bison Wax just smells reall nice too, I love it. See the beautiful sheen and gloss on the arms and rest of the chair, that is a direct result of the waxing. You'll notice in the images in Danish Modern Part 1 you'll see some paint scratches in the wood, I braved the procedure that Mark Wisecarver had suggested but I shot down, scraping the paint off with a card scraper. It actually worked very well, just a couple light passes with the card scraper the embedded paint came right off.
- 15 replies
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- danish
- danish modern
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I got the arms on the chair, with the help of a couple clamping jigs and some simple techniques that I never would have thought of, the arm face to the back leg face is a perfect match. I didn't get very good shots of the process, so any explanation would be futile, sorry, the clamping jigs are all on the other side, don't know why I took a pic of the glued up arm instead of the one that was being fit to be glued, duh! The above pic shows how the paper is moved back n forth, I sand one side, then flip the paper over to sand the other face, bringing both faces of the joint into perfect compliance. While sanding, I am bending the paper away from the grit, so the paper doesn't put a curved edge of the joint, destroying the joint immediately. The final fit, perfect, ready for glue up and later, shaping.