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Found 17 results

  1. Greetings! I'm very new to the forum, currently active duty and soon to retire. Hoping to leverage my G.I. Bill to build some additional skills before tackling some interior joinery projects on our little 40-year old sailboat. I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on schools and courses that aren't just money mills looking to milk my G.I. Bill but will really provide some worthwhile instruction? Thank you for the help! Mike
  2. So I reached a point today where it was necessary to acquire new skills to move forward with the entry table project (See the entry table thread for more on that ongoing saga). So off to the shop I go, turn on some tunes, grab some scrap and start knocking together some dovetails…how hard can it be right?…… Famous last words, it turns out it is a lot harder than it looks. The first attempt was ok but gappy, second attempt was just a debacle. After that one, I took a break and reassessed many many life choices. Played ball with the shop dogs and came back to it knocked out the third attempt which is actually acceptable. Learned a few lessons today which is always a good thing: 1. Free-hand dovetails done by guys like Christian Becksvoort or Paul Sellers is a LOT harder than they make it look. 2. You can reference both chisels and saws on a knife marked layout line. 3. Everything in the joint has to be square. 4. Clearing out the corners of a blind dovetail is a pain, and I now realize what the purpose of a skew chisel or fishtail chisel is. For what its worth, cleaning out a blind dovetail without one is a tedious process. With lessons learned I think I have acquired the necessary knowledge to move on to the next step of the entry table which will give me ample opportunity to practice and build skills.
  3. I thought I would try making TS cut dovetails. I used a special grind (10-deg) TS blade, an Incra HD 1000 miter gauge, and a flush trim router bit. I made a sled which attached to my miter gauge. Using a marking gauge, I laid out the tail height on a sacrificial board a smidge higher than the material thickness, tilt my TS blade 10-deg, and raised the blade to the desired height. I ganged my L/R drawer side boards and cut the tails simultaneous. Because the tails were symmetrical on the front bd and the rear top bd, the tail cutting went fast. I clamped a block to the sled to allow me to make repeat cuts by flipping and rotating the boards between cuts. After the tails were cut, I laid out the pins, the same way you would if the dovetails were cut by hand except, I used a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil instead of a marking knife. I did not need a knife kerf and the pencil line is easier to see. Sorry no pic. Now, I changed out my blade to a flat bottom blade and set the height the same height as the special grind blade. Using the Inca miter gauge rotated to 10-degree, I started to cut the pins. After the pins are cut to the initial setting, rotate the miter gauge to minus 10-degree and cut the other side. Do not change your set-up. When cutting the pins always error on not cutting enough material. I used a coping saw to rough cut the pins and then cleaned-up the bottoms using a ¾” dia. flush trim router bit. My initial fit-up revealed that I had 3 pins which needed more material removed. Because I was using a miter gauge, I could re-cut either side of the pin. I use a pencil scribble to mark where the pin material had to be removed. You may see a #1 and #2 marked on either side of the pins. These markings helped me use the correct miter gauge setting. Because I used symmetrical set-up/cutting to make the tails, I used symmetrical set-up/cutting to cut the pins wherever possible. Because of this technique it appears in the pics that I was off my line when cutting the pins, but the fit-up reveals something different. In some locations the pins did not need to be marked. As I gain experience using this technique, I will learn where to mark and not mark. The pics of the tails and pins are from my 2nd effort and before glue-up. Sorry, I did not get many set-up pictures. The holes that are in some of the pieces are for Blum Tandem undermount draw slide attachment. For me, I’m sure this technique is faster than cutting them by hand. I am pleased with the results. Danl
  4. View File Workbench Magazine September-October 1967 Simple Wood Joints This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Simple wood joints for the every day woodworker, a great series and examples from this classic magazine. Submitter John Morris Submitted 09/06/2021 Category Shop Charts  
  5. Version 1.0.0

    36 downloads

    This is a scanned document of the now defunct Workbench Magazine of this era. Permission was granted by the new Workbench Publication for The Patriot Woodworker community to copy and use the old Workbench Magazine at our pleasure, and for free distribution and re-use. Simple wood joints for the every day woodworker, a great series and examples from this classic magazine.
  6. A good article on when and how to use biscuit joints. Glad to see someone else who does not believe the myth, "They are for alignment only and don't add any strength." https://www.wwgoa.com/article/using-a-biscuit-joiner/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=A6134 A_Biscuit_Joiner_Can_Be_Used_For_Almost_Anything.pdf
  7. I've got a closet in my spare bedroom (storage room) that I wanted to add another clothes hanger rod to. Among my scrap pieces I had two 1.25" diameter closet rod sections that together would be long enough, but neither was long enough on their own. The distance to span is roughly 22". This is a CNC-cut splice joint I came up with to solve the problem. Test cut on smaller scraps shown in the photos. I'm calling it my radial finger joint. Finished spliced rod now loaded with clothes and seems to be able to handle the weight with no complaint. If it does fail eventually I'll report back. 4D
  8. So just to get a little chatter going and I haven't ask one of these in a while, I thought today would be a good time. When you are doing or planning a woodworking project, what is your favorite part of the project? 1. Drawing a scale drawing 2. Building a prototype 3. Dimensioning the material 4. Layout 5. Joinery 6. Assembly 7. Sanding 8. Staining or finishing 9. Just seeing the end results!
  9. OK, OK, I'll start it. How do you make them? I've made some using an IncraJig and a router table with a straight bit. These worked well. I can probably make them with my SOB dovetail joining jig, but it's so complex, it makes my head hurt every time I use it . There was a video a couple of years ago about how to set up a guide on a table saw and dado blade. I used it once and it worked well and with little fussing. The idea was you set up an auxiliary miter gauge fence with a key that just fits the cut. Then use that key to offset the fence from the machine's rip fence. I tried it recently on that sewing machine box and by the time I got twenty or so cuts, the cumulative error was enough that it didn't fit all that well. My dado set up was not a precise fractional amount, I think. I have some friends that made a jig that you wind a threaded rod with a nx16 thread so that every turn advanced the guide 1/16" I don't make them often enough to justify a couple of days making a jig. And I call finger joints and box joints the same thing. Apparently, Stick does not. ?
  10. From the album: Dane Franco

  11. From the album: Dane Franco

  12. steven newman

    Full dovetails

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Details of the rest of the dovetails.
  13. steven newman

    1/2 dovetail

    From the album: Shop Storage Dresser

    Detail of the 1/2 dovetail. Top detail, showing the molded edge
  14. I haven't made any box joints for a few years and had a project that I wanted to use them on. I have a very nice set of 2 Freud blades that make precision cuts. I set everything up and made a cut on scrap. Then used a digital mich to see how well it did. It measured o.30 and my precision cut wasn't so precision. I removed the blades, cleaned them and recut another one with the same results. Next I checked blade squareness vs miter and blade vs table. NO help. I disassembled my miter, readjusted to specs and tightened out any play. NO help. Then it dawned on me that I no longer have a belt drive saw, instead I now have direct drive saw. I checked the run out on the blades there was my problem Each one had the same problem due to the motor bearings having a tiny bit of play. Oh well I guess I'll set up a box joint jig to use on my router. Sure wish I had my old huge cast iron sears belt drive. Just did't have the room for it.
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