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Back in the April 11 Wednesday Wisdom, there was a link, which @lew credited @Gene Howe with providing, which detailed a procedure to make a set of pen turning jaws. That looked like a fun project, so I gave it a try. I found out that it was evidently designed for a bigger chuck than I have, as it would only capture a 1/2" square blank, instead of the traditional 3/4" blank. I took some time to enlarge the notches, doing my best to keep them centered, and I think it came out OK. The blank is the 1/2" blank I drilled to check the centering. A little off, but not bad. Here is my effort: I decided to try making a pen, only my second one, using the home made jaws, and I am satisfied. I have since bought a commercial jaws from PSI. Here is the pen. Thanks for looking.
By setting up a jig to trap the work and run it at some rakish angle to the blade to obtain a large cove? I've seen it and experimented with it. Never produced the actual useable molding. To my mind the sanding would be a bot of a problem taking out the saw blade marks. Have you done it? What was you experience like? How about when mitering the corners together - - did the sanding make it difficult because of differential stock removal from sanding?
Needed a trailer badly while building a go-cart track in 1980. I buy nothing new it seems. I found a guy who had bought out a horse trailer manuf. This might be better I thought for all the axles were of the dropped axle design so they would be lower to the ground for easier access and exit. Only thing was, they were too narrow. Never fear I thought. I bought three axles cut them in two and added some heavy duty pipe in the middle enough so the width of the beds would be 76 inches wide. Not remembering how I come up with that number. And the long one 18' long? And most lumber yards stock 16 and 20 foot 2x12's. Lots of things I am wondering about from that time The wood floors in both trailers have finally went to the happy hauling ground. I used at least 1/4 thick metal under the floors and some 3/8" thick. This time I could buy 2x6 way cheaper than 2x12's but hey there are exactly 120 holes already there that match up to 2x12's I used a drill press back then. Now I would have to use a hand drill. Too bad I don't have a magnetic drill. I sold them way back yonder but never dreamed I could use one in retirement. This is why I am typing this today. Labor is not the same on a person if the same job is done more than 45 years apart. I used a 2 quart paint cup both times with the gun about 45 inches on hoses from the cup. This time I would say this set up weights at least 100 lbs more than the last time I painted this trailer... I also deducted back then I completely built 2 trailers and painted both trailers in the same time it took to grind off the paint off this tandem axle trailer and repaint it. I think this time one good coat of primer will out last me so......No I didn't do that to the cat, He was already that color!!!! That 2 quart cup was a time saver back when I had the repair refinish shop. I could put one coat on a bedroom suit without refilling. Unscrewing the dam thing was a bitch though!!!!!!! The rubber gasket cup seal use to not last long then they switched to a leather gasket and that solved the problem... The stars was on my side all yesterday for the wind started lightly blowing from the north and continued all day long so I left the motor home sit just outside the door and didn't have to move it because of the painting.
tool613 posted a topic in Old Machinery Operating and Restoration TipsSome of the handles for the Machines I am working on are missing or worn out. I see this a lot on the older machines that have been worked hard that i bring home to restore. Since I am doing a full restore I needed a way to fix the handles on the cranks/locks or what ever had turn handles. Here is what I came up with before I got my wadkin Pattern lathe. I thought that it would help those with out a lathe. First I take a bolt that will tap into the crank and put it in the drill press. I use a file and round the head while it spins. I then drill a hole through a piece of wood with a counter bore for the new head.I leave the bolt head a little high in the wood. i am using rose wood for this. With the hole and the length cut,I draw a circle around the wood to the rough size. I ruff it out on the band saw. I now put the wood back on the bolt and add nuts to cover the threads, this gives me protection for the threads in the drill chuck. Now remember I left the bolt head high . This is so I can crank the table up tight to the handle to give it more support as I file the shape of the handle I want and to keep it nice and round. I shape the handle as much as I can and then lower the table to do the end with the bolt head. you can see the bolt head hole left in the mdf table. I then shape the bottom with a bastard mill file and sand to a shine all I do now is tap the crank and JB/locktite weld the threads in to the taped hole so the wood spins or is tight. Most handles are a press fit in the crank so i just tap it to the size bolt that i used. in mostÂ casesÂ its a 7/16" bolt,but you get the idea.Â
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