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Showing results for tags 'hinges'.
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Ran across these two boxes recently at the restore. the wedges box (who knew they had a name?) and the price on the old hinge box (it's empty)
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Ran across this Interesting video in my travels on the intrerweb. Check it out and, see what you think.
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When using small hinges to install delicate frame doors or any thing smaller then a standard cabinet door that requires a mortised hinge, I like to crimp my little hinges to close the gap between the door and the mating surface of what ever your installing the door on. Once you close the gap in the hinge, then mortise it in, you have a nice tight fitting door with virtually zero gap. The first pic is a standard small hinge, in this case I have a 2" brass hinge I bought from the home center for a display case I am building. You will see how "Gappy" the hinge is right out of the bag new. Put the little hinge in a vise, Then tighten the vise as tight as you can, be careful not to insert the hinge too far into the vise jaws or you'll just be crimping the hinge against the pin. The pic below shows my hinge after I tightened down on it. There you have it, a very simple little hinge trick for closing those gaps in your doors, works great for jewelry boxes, small cabinets, or for any project that requires small hinges. And, don't worry about marring the surface of the hinge with the vise jaws, because the jaws are against the bottom surface of the hinges, and I have yet to see any scratches on the brite side of the brass, but you can always slip a piece of wax paper in between the hinge to prevent marring if your worried about it. Thanks for reading!
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From the album: A Stepback Cupboard
Hinges came from a Yard Sale last year.....had to buy screws for them. Walnut plugs cover the counter-bores where screws were used. -
I see a lot of Euro-hinges in my work, often just needed some adjustments to line up doors. In the last five or six project that I've done with doors, I've used them. I'll have to admit, when I looked at all the options in the catalog, I got real confused. Cups and mounting plates sold separately, soft close option, degree of opening, amount of overlap, face frame or frameless, type of mounting screws, 3 or more different brands, etc. . (Though it's somewhat easier to just go to Rockler and pick up one of the smaller number of options there). This just came in and I found it to be a good guide into helping select what you need. https://www.familyhandyman.com/smart-homeowner/all-about-euro-hinges?pmcode=IVBJJU103&_cmp=DiyTipsHintsNL&_ebid=DiyTipsHintsNL7/30/2017&_mid=159942&ehid=EBC4D8BEC6F08D97A318788DB78D9A1244AF138A P.S. I found out years ago that Blum hinges have a lifetime guarantee. If one ever fails, they'll send you a replacement. And here is a presentation Blum gave the the woodworking club last year https://gallery.mailchimp.com/85f44c62cf7023fd358e2dc03/files/c3597fcd-a098-4ddd-be57-90932b8a3976/Concealed_Hinge_Presentation_Blum.pdf
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hinge side.jpg
steven newman posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: Walnut & Cherry Box
Showing the back of the box. Wave effect in the panel is from the panel being a hair uneven. Small brass hinges. Corner joints are a Tongue & Groove glue joint, no other fasteneres were used. -
Trinket Box Hinges
DerBengel posted a gallery image in Small Crafts, Boxes, Picture Frames, and Lighting
From the album: DerBengel's Scrapbook
I used nail-less hinges since the box isn't so big.© Cindy Trine
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First off, I am not cheap,.....merely frugal... Picked a few things today, spent about $8.50.... I have a complete Metric set of these 3/8" drive sockets. My son needed a set of SAE Deep well sockets. $5 Original price was $1.99, yard sale price was $0.50 . I will use these more to clean up any "details" a beading plane may leave. NO, I do NOT carve... Bag #1, and.. Dollar for the two of them, gave me nine hinges....only Bag#2 had screws, though...wound up with three styles, three each.. I wonder where I can use these.... Next, sitting UNDER those two bag was this thingy Did not see the chuck key anywhere...drat. A 1/4" drill bit will not fit in that chuck. marked as George A. Terry, of Buffalo, NY. More for working on MAC aircraft...might make some use out of it The Boss spent way more than I did....oh well.
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Ok, Been doing a wee bit of research......found a few ideas. Right now, my stash of lumber is mainly 3/4" x 5-1/2" Pine, with a few 1x4s thrown in. Looking at a box for those auger bits to call home. Leave the Pine at 3/4" or resaw....(resaw means a new blade for the bandsaw...) Will need a lot of hinges, and latches. Box looks to be a "layer cake" sort of thing. Each layer can be un-latched to open up, while the rest stay latched.....$$ in brass hardware.... Each layer will need a bottom. Plywood, or thinned pine... Will need a way to keep things from rolling around inside each layer.......drill out a block to stick the shafts into? Maybe combine both the bottom panel and the bit holder into a single block? Drill the holes needed, then cut off halfway along, and halfway in thickness... Corner joints? Might go back to plain old finger joints again. It would match the rest of the box "set" I have going.... Single Brain Cell Sketch Up is on-line, working out a few details. Have to have places for a few non-auger bits, as well. May save the Cherry and Walnut scraps for dividers in the old bit box, to house the squares and bevel gauges. Depends on what they decide to do with this knee, and when they will be doing it. May have enough time to cobble something up......
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From the album: Box for a Stanley 45
Back side, showing the brass hinges. Went and added slotted head screws, instead of phillips ones. -
Just a PIP of where this box is at.. I usually have a bit of trouble, when hinges get used.. But at least these don't bind up....lots of fine tuning to do, yet.. Need to decide on some latches of some sort....gathering a few tools to toss inside when this box is done.. Well,it is a start....
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Got this thing almost finished, waiting on the BLO. Second coat is on. Hinges are on have a latch installed on the front.. made a rack to hold the bits in place.. Merely notch some metal angles, then screwed them in place. Test fit to make sure the bits would fit. Old chisel to adjust a couple for width. Drawer liner mesh to cut down on the rattles. Side view. Grain looks decent enough. lid will actually stay opened, on it's own... Got MOST of the bits in there. Will just have to do, for now. Waiting to see how many more coats of BLO I'll need...
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Well, found out the hinged items and I still don't get along. Trying to install a lid on these Lap Desk.......didn't go too well. Trashed the non-moving part of the lid, as the meeting angles...didn't. Got out the last of the wider boards from the stash. Had a "Live Edge"......maybe a design feature? marked out where I needed to cut. Bandsaw still refuses to cut a straight line, so I'll dig this little saw out. At least it will saw a straight line. Clamped things up, to see what angles needed cut And test fitted some hinges.....close enough for now.... Closed the lid...still a bit "hinge-bound", but better than it was. More Walnut plugs to install, and then just called it a night Front view, and a look at the back edge BTW, while trying to plane a bevel on the edge of this curly Maple stuff That plane sitting beside the panel is one of the two from an auction Seems to be tuned up enough to make a few shavings....The little smooth plane also did a bit of work on the flat areas Millers Falls No.8....about the size of a Stanley #3. Might just add a coat of BLO to this desk, and see what turns up.....