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  1. Our turning club has two TVs and sound system . We added two new microphones, a mixer and a PA speaker this month. The old DeWalt drill box is not large enough to handle all this so I set out to make a box which I fear is a bit oversize . However there will be padding added. measures about 18 l x 7.5 h x 12.5 deep. Did not want it to be too heave so planed the oak sides down to 3/8. As usual forgot pictures till done so staged on on the jig. This is what will go into the box plus the sound mixer. Router setup for finger joints. Had to change the clamps for 3/8 wood and didn't quite get it tight for first one and had to make a new end board That take care of and tight clamps left no problem. Laid out to check dado for continuity . The hard part here for me is to remember the order So I mark the corners to match. Test fit for sides. Now to make the top and bottom and hope I remember to take pics.
  2. I made these screwdriver handles from some scrap mahogany. The other wood I’m not sure what it exactly is but it a really hard wood.
  3. Finished them up today. Took longer than I thought they would. Wife and I had a nasty bug last week. Worst cough I can remember having for a while. Doc said, "just something that's going around". Crazy. Anyway, I'm happy with these. Guy hasn't seen them yet so I hope he is too.
  4. In the "what's on your lathe" topic I mentioned that I had a piece of brass to make some ferrules. I made around 20 1"od and same for 3/4" od ferrules. Mostly hacksaw and file work and it sure made me wish I had a small metal lathe like Dan. A while back I turned some mallets for a local wood carver and he mentioned he'd like to have a set of handles as well. That's what the ferrules are for. I don't really like commission work but he was pretty adamant he wanted me to do them. Shot him what I thought was a high price and he increased how many he wanted, go figure. He wanted them out of Osage, same as his mallets. Fortunately I had enough to do them. The ferrules are a press fit and that takes some time to get right but once that's done the handles are a pretty simple profile. He said he wanted a set of matching handles, ended up to be 16 total. I told him "matching" was a relative term and there would be minor differences. He said that's why he want's hand made. It is his intention to only use them when he's demoing. 11 more to go, he doesn't know it but I intend to burn his name and a small graphic on the handles. The burn lines will be different on each one to help him identify them if the edge is hidden. Had a minor set back this morning though, blew a tire.
  5. I recently had a chance to play with some beading tools, something I'd never really used before. However, they weren't mine to keep. After returning them I found that I missed what they could do. So, I invested in a 3/16", and a 1/8" beading tool from D-way tools. I like wooden handles so I purchased them un-handled. When I received the tools it occurred to me the cutting edge could be easily damaged. Knowing they are not a tool that will get daily use I needed a way to protect them from getting knocked to the floor or dinged up if in a drawer. I also do a club demo now and then so how to protect them when transporting? I had an idea to make a self storing, reusable handle and this is the result. Not real pretty but I think it will work well. It's a take off from my collet handle video with the handle drilled out to accept more of the shaft. This is with the tool in cutting position. This is with the cutting edge stored in the handle. The fittings are less than ten bucks at my local hardware. I used a 3/8" compression by 1/4" FIP straight and a 1/4" FIP close nipple.
  6. Started on this stand earlier this year. Now to make two drawers. I like to use sliding dovetails to attach faces. Sorry no pic but this is how it looks. and when gluing drawers they need to be squared. now this is where I hit the problem. Slides anytime 14 inch and the drawer is 14. So this little protrusion is in the way. So there are two solutions. One: cut a notch in that and make the dovetail connection one sided there. Two: extend the face of the box. Number two is the winner but a bit dirty. I choose to screw these and glue since it is a shop fixture. More tomorrow as the handles are turned but no pic today
  7. I have this Boise-Crane miter bar which is one of my favorites and it has needed a new handle for some time. I believe it is one of the few tools I have left from my grandfather. It still fits perfectly into the miter slot on both my router table and the table saw after all there years and it deserved a new handle and I needed a quick and painless turning project today. Turning is such a zen kind of thing. Paul
  8. Learning to turn can be intimidating, more so (I suspect) when you don't have anyone local to turn to for advice. So I come here and glean what I can. This is my latest endeavor....another not-very-big-deal, but a handle for a parting tool. The shank is installed with a combination of epoxy in the bottom of the hole and a slit cut in the end under the ferrule. The victory in this is that the hole is aligned with the handle. I had managed to work out a method for this with a screwdriver, and this is another attept (that worked). Anyway, the handle is loosely styled like a Henry Taylor chisel I have and this was actually just puttering around. Since I was just puttering, I tried the burned rings that Dan described in another post. It's hard maple, and if it falls apart I still have the OEM handle to put it in. I did give it a couple of coats of wiping varnish. Forgot to mention, one big screwup was that my tenon for the ferrule isn't long enough, it's too short by almost 1/8"! I think I can get my tubing cutter and shorten the ferrule to the tenon length.
  9. My current putzing around project with the lathe is to make a handle for a lathe chisel (parting tool, to be specific). So the shank of the chisel is 1/2" and so is (presumably) my hole for it. The chisel is a sort of slip-fit, it slides in without undue pressure and I have a collar for it once finished (1/2 of a 3/4" copper union). The collar will be a very tight fit, but I'm wondering about how tight the shank should fit in the hole. Maybe you're supposed to put a little epoxy on it when inserted??? Or do i need to try and get a tighter fit?
  10. Got the lacquer on these handles last night and put them together today. Still messed up the insert on one and cracked the handle. Pizza / is server is new for me This ice cream scoop is the hardest kit of them all but the wife likes it best. This is the large pizza cutter. The small ones just not selling but sold the only large I had. Another new item . These seam rippers are just glued into the handle. These are my Fire Stix and one of my most consistent sellers , outside of snap tops. Now ready for the season mostly.
  11. This is my latest attempt at an off-center turning to produce an oval shaped tool handle. This was done out of ash. Be kind, I am still learning, as can plainly be seen.
  12. Since my brother and his wife retired, they are spending more time experimenting with various cuisines. I though I'd get them a micro-plane/grater for the kitchen. Rather than just buy the completed item, I ordered the planer/grater and made the handle. In the past, I sent them various kitchen/serving utensils so this handle would reflect the previous designs. The biggest disappointment, with this particular grater, was that the handle was designed to be permanently attached to the grater using epoxy. In my opinion, handles should be detachable so that the metal portions can be adequately cleaned without damaging the handle. Fortunately, the threads on the grater were standard 3/8 x 16 so creating a better solution was pretty easy. I started with a piece of maple, squared into a turning blank. Then drilled the end of the blank to accept a 3/8 x 16 brass threaded insert- this will allow the grater to removed and placed into the dish washer. The insert was installed on the drill press using a shop made bottle stopper mandrel. The insert can be seen in this photo- The handle blank was then prepared to receive contrasting walnut inserts. The insert slots were cut on the table saw using a simple angle jig to hold the blank in the proper orientation. The blank is cut four times, using a single pass thru the blade. The depth of the cut is arbitrary but between 1/4 and 1/3 the thickness of the blank produces a nice pattern. The inserts are glued into the saw kerfs. the inserts are 1/8" thick and just long enough to extend past the end of the kerfs at either end. Once the glue dries, the inserts are trimmed to be flush with the blank sides. I trimmed these on the band saw. They don't have to be perfect. Trimming just makes the turning process a little easier. Now it's just a matter of turning the handle. I used the bottle stopper mandrel and a Jacobs chuck to mount the blank in the head stock. The inserts create a "twist" pattern as the blank is rounded Shaped the blank Finished with a bunch of layers of wipe on poly And the grater screwed into the handle Now I need to make something for my Mom.
  13. How about a broken sledge hammer handle turned into chisel handles. Also a pretty good example of how not to use a lathe but I am learning.https://youtu.be/5dYnNZQn8s8
  14. I get Tom Fidgen's Newsletter in my inbox and I always look forward to it. Tom is a hand made by hand tool guy, long story short, great stuff, beautiful work, I have been following him for along time. In the most recent newsletter he is advertising his new Two Handled Rasps, these are beautiful tools, I want them, I gotta have them, don't know how yet, but some day I'll have them in my shop. These tools just make sense, with their two handles, stitched rasp, these are made for accurate stock removal. I have no horse in the game here, I just love beautiful tools is all. Here they are. Just thought I'd share them.
  15. Needed a new type of screwdriver.....lee valley wanted way to much for one of theirs, was out of stock, anyway. Needed a screwdriver to remove these... Called "Split nuts". Decide I could make my own screwdriver, first i needed a 1/2" spade bit Well...Lowes did sell singles. Then dig through the "spares" box, looking for a handle... That could accept a hex shaft, and lock on to it ( yellow "stripe" is a flip out compartment for bits.meh) I think that will do as a start....needed to take this, a saw, and a big cup of water to the shop....and clear a spot on the crowded bench Grind and dunk until I got this far....grinder even got a start on a notch....file to refine the notch into a square shape.. Then keep thinning the end, until it fits the slots, exactly. Some of the slots needed cleaned out...but.. Seems to work. Had to narrow the "blade" a tad, to fit the smaller sized nut...which are stamped on their non-show side.. Washbourne Patent...DEC 31 1867. Plan now is to scrounge up a punch to gently drive each bolt back through the handle, take the handle of the saw off. Clean and sharpen the saw's blade, and maybe refinish the handle. Will even shine up the brass.... Not too bad, for a $1 saw? Bottom saw is a bit newer Panel saw...by Simonds. Sorry, no medallion on the rip saw...... Stay tuned
  16. Just think, in less than 2 weeks, we will enter Daylight Saving Time- for those who live in states that utilize this archaic standard. This sees to sum it up- Our Patriot Turners- Member @Thad posted a new project of some handles he was turning. Thad also asked our turners about making ferrules. The handles turned out fantastic! Check out the post here- @Ron Altier Started a discussion concerning using gloves while turning and if that practice was safe. Lots of thoughts and discussion followed- Ron also posted a question about "pressure turning". Our turners offered their opinions and some ideas. New member @doublej posted the most awesome mobile turner's tool station. Everything in one convenient place. Check out all the pix in his post and try not to slobber all over the tools in his shop- @HandyDan created some center pins for his live tailstock center. While doing some research he came across interesting information on Morse Tapers. Check out Dan's post for all the details- @Gerald continues to work on his Offering Plates> He continues his post about the design. Read more comments about this project- Gerald also posted some of the off-center turnings he made with his new off-center chuck. These certainly are gorgeous.- See more of what Gerald has done in his post- What’s Coming Up- Click on the above image for the link to more information and registration. For The Newbies- I regularly receive emails from Cook Woods. Included in one was this link to an article from Woodturning. If you are considering turning pens from kits, there is some good information here. https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/beginners-guides/20-steps-to-turning-better-pens/ Expand Your Horizons- @Stick486 gave us a heads up on this Turning Club's site. Check out the gallery page. There are some absolutely beautiful pieces- https://www.gvwg.ca/ Recently we have seen River Tables being built. Patriot member @Gene Howe created a beautiful table a while back. Our friends from Easy Wood Tools ( @Jim from Easy Wood Tools ) recommended a video on making a "River Mallet". Check out the use of those fantastic Easy Wood Tools and chuck! New Turning Items- The folks at Wood Turners Wonders are offering a line of CA glues and epoxy from Stick Fast. I have not tried them. Looks like they have quite a few options. https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/adhesives Everything Else- Last week, @Gerald asked how I cut the threads for the cones I made. Being the parsimonious (for @Gene Howe ) person I am, I decided to make the tap to cut the threads. I don't remember where I read about this idea but it works- Dremel tool and disk. The bolt matches the threads of the center. Grind flutes, I made 4 flutes Drill the hole- In this case, I didn't have the correct sized bit to get the best bite on the threads but it was pretty close- Slowly thread the "tap" into the hole backing off to break the chips. Tapped hole. The correct bit size for 3/4 x 10 threads 21/32" but the closest I have was a 3/4 forstner bit. The threads don't have quite as much "meat" to them but it works OK. I've also made wooden chucks for the headstock in the same manner. My lathe has a 1" x 8 spindle and I was lucky enough to find a used tap and had the correct bit size. You can see the threads look "deeper" While I was playing, I finally set up a way to keep some of the chuck jaws and tools handy. A Harbor Freight magnet bar! Go HF!! Safe turning
  17. This is my wife's favorite cooking pot. It has got to be 75+ years old. She got it from her aunt many years ago. The handle has rotted away and she wants it replaced. Not a big deal, however I have some thoughts about the wood and type finish I should use. I should use hardwood for sure, I am concerned about the finish. Maybe an oil? varnish? What would you use around heat and food?
  18. Found this hammer head at an estate sale and bought it for the novelty of it. I have this hammer and thought I may be able to share the handle with is and treat it as a kit. They both have 3/8" fine threads but the screw driver was too long for the new ball peen head. There is only 2" hollowed out in the stem so I decided to make a handle for it. I found this piece of brass from a candle stick I saved from a previous project. As luck would have it it had 3/8" fine threads already in the end of it. Stuff does go right sometimes. Mounted it on the metal lathe and turned it down to 7/16". Found a suitable piece of Mahogany, drilled it and epoxied the two together. Turned it on the wood lathe and gave it a CA finish. Cut the head off a fine thread bolt to use as a connector to mate the hammer head and handle together. Then I got the idea to cut a tip off a Phillips screw driver, drill a hole in the 3/8" connector and mate the two together. So now the handle has a Phillips screw driver when twisted apart. I enjoy piddling around with projects like this. Gets the creative juices flowing.
  19. Hey Folks, One of out members is trying to find some plans, or assistance, in making a drawer handle. Our member, Pat Meeuwissen (http://thepatriotwoodworker.com/user/2585-pat-meeuwissen/) is trying recreate this handle- Can anyone steer him in the right direction?? Thanks!
  20. Last spring, I picked an old #3 sized plane at a garage sale.....they had just brought it up out of a damp cellar......yellow, fuzzy mold on the wood parts, everything else was a rusty mess. Spent a dollar for it, thinking I could at least get a few parts out of it..... Yeah.....anyway, got things cleaned up. Wood parts on the plane went into the trash can, they were "punky" and gummmy. Got it almost cleaned up, and found some other handles.. And set it aside for awhile......Kept thinking about the rear handle....this one wasn't setting right, bolt didn't match the top of the handle....Hmmm.. Well, today, I swapped out handles, but left the bolts alone...almost. OEM bolt was bent in a few wrong directions. Finally just clamped just the base into the end vise, cranked the non-brass shaft in as far as it would go......was still too long for the "new" handle. A little time on the grinder to remove a couple turns of threads, campfer the end and attach the shaft to the base, again. I'd check where the end was coming through, and how the bottom of the handle was sitting....cuss a bit, pull handle back off, handle to adjust the shaft's "attitude" a bit, try again......gecloser, but didn't want to rush and break something... Finally got the new handle to sit flat on the base, with the bolt centered at the top.....and still too long.....grrrr, grinder to remove a bit off the top. Check the brass nut to make sure it threads back on....ok, close enough... Bolt sets better, handle sits flat on the base, and doesn't wobble around. Front knob was loose ( again..) and tightened that up, too....gave the plane a few try-outs and.... something was quite right. Things were sitting a bit crooked in the cutting room. Finally, I just reset the frog. Took a couple tries to get that the way it was supposed to be. Looked at the iron-chipbreaker.... Big curve going on, not letting the iron sit flat on the frog's face....Took the two apart...ah, chipbreaker was at fault, iron went right back to straight. Re-ground the curved part of the chipbreaker.....still not right.. OK, we getting serious here.....laid the offending part on the bench, hammer to knock the curved area down a bit. Tried it out, bolt that holds the two together worked the way it was supposed to. Test fit...lateral lever fits better....didn't need a hammer to adjust for tilt. Tried the assembled plane on some white oak scrap.. Not perfect, but it is close enough. Next time, I'll have the sharpening gear IN the shop, and I can close up a gap in the chipbreaker, as well. Since I was working on a #3 sized plane, might as well check out the one Sears replaced the Fulton with... Made by Millers Falls as a No. 8, sold at Sears as a No.3C. ( smooth sole?) Looks like it will need a bit of time on the stones, as well. Label on handle says "Craftsman Tools" and has a fancy lever cap Gold coloured even. Have a Millers Falls No.8 and a Stanley/ Wards Master Quality #3 to also check out. The Fulton? Was made by Sargent. Anyone want a rusty brace/drill? The ratchet doesn't, the top knob is still frozen in place. The rust is gone from the outside.....the sweep handle is punky soft. I think it is an 8" sweep. Cleaned up.....chuck works fine, ratchet doesn't. Parts drill...
  21. On another site I float around in. There is a topic about the handle on a hatchet.....Got to thinking....yeah....I might have one of those strange tools.. No, it didn't come out of one of these tubs.. Lovely looking bunch? The one that is sitting in the Tool Tote at the moment, MIGHT be a bit better.. Used to be able to read the "gold" lettering on the wooden handle.....Official Scout Camp Axe Has a brass screw, takes a flat bladed screwdriver, to adjust the wedge for tightness. Why it has a nail puller notch, who knows.. The best part of the Hatchet? Is these two "logos" stamped into the side of the head. The rectangle one has "PLUMB" inside it. The other? Something about "Be Prepared" Other side is rather plain, though... MIGHT need a bit of stone work on the edge? Near as I can find out, this one was my Late FIL's. He never did throw anything away.. Whether to sharpen up and use ( have a Fiskars) or, just oil it up and display it...somewhere..
  22. A buddy just dropped off a Buck Brothers gouge that needs a handle. TUrning it is no problem but I need to get an idea of the proportions of the original handle- which is missing. This is what I have- If anyone can direct me to a site that would have a picture of this particular chisel, I'd be grateful!
  23. From the album: Handles

  24. Charles Nicholls

    File Handles

    From the album: Handles

    A few chainsaw file handles I have made recently
  25. Sometime last Yard sale season....I picked a strange looking chisel up for..maybe fifty cents had a cigar band style label, or did at one point in time. Looked like either a Japanese chisel or a Butcher....Handle was splitting at the tang's end. Got to cleaning this "thing" up.. Found some markings on that flat area.......C E JENNINGS with an arrowhead under that, and then a "Made in USA" below that. I also got the back all polished and flat. Should do for now. well a Jennings handle for a tanged chisel did NOT look like this handle.. And, at first, I was going to just cut a hunk off of an Ash hammer handle I had made ( awaiting a head for it).. Then I saw a handle down in the spares box. Seemed to look a bit easier to use, and was closer to what was on the chisel when new decided to use it instead, and save the ash handle in case I break a hammer handle someday. While cleaning all that black junk off of the steel of the chisel....sandpaper slipped off the end.....thumb merely bounced off. Looked down at the thumb.....had a nice slice, and it was leaking, to boot....OW! Got the tang all nicely cleaned up, didn't have a torch to heat it up....drove the tang in anyway, trying to drive it straight... Well, still about 1/4" from seating all the way in....try again tomorrow. As for the old handle? Had an old "Corsair" 3/4" chisel that needed a handle......cleaned the blade up, and installed it into the "old" handle. Nose is full of dust, as I ground the end a bit to match the Corsair's blade. Sharpened it up, and can use it as a "beater chisel" Thumb is healing...there will be a mark. Fifty cent chisel? handle was from one of those "Junk Box" things at a yard sale. Will post a completed chisel picture later. Without cutting a finger this time...
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