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Found 24 results

  1. So I recently acquired a couple of new to me planes that need some work. Both I need to check the soles and irons for flatness and the iron needs a serious iron sharpening. I'll clean as best I can as well. Any other suggestions? Best methods for checking flatness on the sole? I do have a 3"x18"x12" very flat granite block in my shop. While I have flattened plane irons and chisels I've never done a plane sole. Some solid advice would be great. I often look to the infonet but there's as much bad advice as good so unless you know a solid site for such advice you're on your own. I created a web page for those planes here. Thanks again for any assistance.
  2. Just got a email from Woodcraft with a article on hand planes . Has some good info in it for those who know and especially those who do not . MASTERING THE HAND PLANE
  3. Caleb James is a premier tool maker, one of the best in the world, and he also has a neat free plan area for the exact same tools he makes. Enjoy. Free Plans — Caleb James Maker CALEBJAMESMAKER.COM I offer these technical drawings for you to freely use. I ask that you please reserve these for your personal use. Enjoy!
  4. Here is my weekend projet. It was from the video Stick suggested last week. I made a mock up, to see if I could build one. See picture. Now I will make a working model. Herb
  5. I got a vintage Wards hand plane for Christmas, found in Cottonwood AZ. All the parts seem to be there (badly painted/finished, but fixable). The one piece that I'd really like to replace is the machine screw for the front handle (but if I find the handle screw, I betcha I can find the tote screw too). The machine screws are #10, 20 tpi; that second value is the problem. I checked local Ace Hware, and it's definitely #10 (smaller than 1/4, Not metric; fits into #10 sockets for about one turn--24 and 32 tpi sockets). I did find a 1/4-20 bolt to confirm my threads are 20 tpi, and I checked some wood web sites: no go. Suggestions?
  6. As part of the Dungeon Clean-up this year....the old plough plane was rehabbed back to life.....found broken, and discarded....new parts were made. New, better wedges were made. Cutter sharpened up. New, Maple handle was made. Skate was cleaned of rust. A new fence, made out of Ash to replace the broken Beech one. New wedges are Walnut. There is a screw to help secure the handle in place, as the old dovetail socket was worn away. Glued the handle in place, then added the #10 screw. Two other #10 screws to attach the fence to it's arms. Had to repair one arm...old screw had split the "boss" where it attaches to the arm. Wards #78 plane to make the rebate. Wedge to hold the cutter was beveled to allow the cutter to reach full depth of cut. It also deflecks the shavings out the right side of the plane. As there is no place for the shavings to go on this side.. far cry from what was dug out of the "trash"... Even the sole of the plane needed worked on....was worn crooked... As found.....iron plane is a Stanley #4. Plough plane does look a bit better, now....
  7. So there really is a reason they are called Rabbet planes. Found at Jim Bode Tools https://www.jimbodetools.com/collections/fine-braces-drills/products/3-4-inch-miniature-rabbit-rabbet-plane-by-paul-hamler-58078
  8. Yep, another rehab. This be a PIP of where this big guy is at right now Clamps are there to hold those tabs in lace while the super glue sets up. Top of the body has been cleaned off. Sides have had a plane work them back to almost new. At least the old cruddy finish is gone. Sole has been planed flat as i can get it. Not 100% flat, but good enough for this shop. Tote has seen a wire wheel to get most of the oil finish off, and some of the old paint splats. Tried to flatten the toe a bit, almost back to a level front porch. Might still turn a front Kanoobie... Wedge has been tuned up, cleaned up, and an oil finish is on it. Rest of the body has at least five coats, so far. Wood might be a tad dry? Body is 22" long, iron is 2-1/2" wide, about the same as a Stanley #7 iron bodied plane. Iron has been reground to get rid of a few nicks. Awaiting it's turn on the oil stones... Might not be too bad a plane...afterall?
  9. PostalTom

    Plane Books

    Not too long ago, I bought a #5 Veritas jack plane from Lee Valley. I'm realizing now that I don't really know how to use this tool effectively. For example, I tried to flatten a board that was too wide to run across my jointer, so that I could run it through my planer, and it came out looking worse than when I started. What I am looking for is a comprehensive guide for someone who is a newby regarding bench or jack planes. Or just planes in general. I realize I have other options, such as ripping the board to fit my jointer, flattening it, and gluing it back together for the planer, or building a "shimming sled" to use on the planer, but I would also like to be able to use the plane to do this. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
  10. oldwoodie


    Picked up a 408(I think is same as Stanley #4 ) Sargent hand plane that was clean, sharp and ready to go for $10.00. How bad did I do? My thinking is to sell all my Stanley Baileys and Baileys and use the lesser knowns for my work. I have some others like Dunlop, Craftsman, Buck Brothers, etc. I can pick up Stanley knockoffs with no name, and if it fits my hand, is well made, and is in good shape, I can always do all right. What do you say about my theory? Also, I turned down Wood Magazine's last offer because they shut down our community forum. I would not be surprised if they quit publishing it in the next few years if as many people are mad at them as I think they are. I was going to return their offer with this explanation as to why I decided to drop them after more than 20 years of subscriptions.
  11. This image is an open sourced image uploaded to this community for re-use within our community graphics.

    © This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license.

  12. I can come into my shop after work, wind down, run my #8C across a plank of cherry and watch those lovely thin shavings fall to the floor. After about 15 minutes of this, I am ready to go inside and take on the gang, homework with the kids, take my turn cooking for my wife, and just being there for my gang. Life is good with wood in it.
  13. Scott Meeks is a contemporary plane maker from the Krenov style.
  14. I thought that I would do a general tutorial on how to refurbish a hand plane. However, before I start, I would like to thank @HandyDan for providing me with this outstanding Stanley Bailey #5-1/2, Type 11 hand plane. Dan recognized that I didn’t possess a #5-1/2 and graciously offered it to me. So, I thought that as long as I was going to clean the plane up TO USE, that, I would take you folks through my process(es), step by step. Before I start, I understand that some of you are probably familiar with how to do this, but there are others who are not and may like to clean up grandpa’s plane or that garage sale find, but don’t know where to start. I want to see input and alternate methods from the members as I go through this process. I will show how I do this, but it is not the only way to get to the end result. Let’s make this informative for everyone and share ideas. Most of this will be graphic in nature with very little text. I will provide information and clarifications as needed. However, if I don’t cover something in an adequate manner, please ask. I have several core philosophies; the standard …a picture is worth a thousand words, the story is no good without pictures, and there are NO stupid questions. I will break this up into stages. First, I don’t know how much continuous time I will have to complete the project, and it allows for discussions and Q & A between stages. So, I’m going to start out with a general overview of the plane itself. Understand that, this plane is a type 11. This dates it to 1910-1918, so it is about 100 years old. Whoever had and used this plane took very good care of it. There is evidence that the plane iron was properly flattened on the back side, nothing was rusted solid, the wood was dinged but nothing was broken. However, the plane was in a “crusty” condition. (Side note: I apologize for the quality of the photos. They are taken with my iPhone SE as I go through the process. They are not the best quality...sorry.) Here is what the plane looks like before anything is done to it: The next few pictures are of the individual subsystems as the plane was disassembled. Why so many pictures, you ask? Well when it is all done you will be able to go back and compare the before and after results. How to Refurbish a Hand Plane, Stage II Now that it is disassembled it is time to eliminate as much rust as possible. There are many ways to do this but here is what I did. First step is a good wire brushing of all the parts to remove as much loose scale and dirt as possible. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder to de-rust the hardware, and the components. Since the sole is a corrugated one, I used a softer, drill mounted wire wheel to get into the grooves. Now comes the messy part. All of the major components will go into an electrolysis conversion bath. There is lots of information on how to do this so I won’t go into details. However, here is my set-up and process. Here is the key component. You don’t need an awful lot of the Washing Soda added to the water to get good results. This shows how the cap iron, plane iron, frog, and lever cap are suspended. Here is the nastiness that is the result of the process. All of that red scummy foam is the rust lifted off of the metal components. The next thing was the body of the plane. Unfortunately, I did not get a photo of it in the bath. The #5’s don’t fit completely into the water, so there is about four inches that sticks above the water. I just do one side and then flip the body around and do the other half. After the parts come out of the bath, they are washed with clear water, and then dried. If I don’t have a chance to get to the parts right away I treat them with Boeshield T-9 to keep the surface rust from starting. When I finally get to the parts, they are wiped down with Mineral Spirits. They are then buffed on a pleated wheel with white rouge. I follow up with a loose linen wheel and the same white rouge. This usually gets the last of the crud off of the surface and puts a decent polish to the metal. Not everyone has a buffing wheel set-up, but, again, there are several ways to “skin the cat”. You can use something similar in a hand held drill or resort to elbow grease and handwork. The main issue here is to get rid of the deep down rust in any pits in the metal. Here are the parts de-rusted, buffed and ready to go. Once I am satisfied with the degree of polish, the part gets a good coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax. While I am buffing out the metal parts I, also, buff out the brass on the same buffing wheels. Remember those black handle nuts and the adjustment wheel. Well this is what they now look like. (Disclosure for the adjustment wheel a Dremel Tool is our friend. Wire wheels and little, tiny, itsy bitsy buffs and felt bobs) Once the brass is polished out you can either coat them with the Johnson’s Past Wax, or for a more permanent shine you can seal them with spray lacquer.
  15. Good day folks, I am working on a project that requires the creation of a specification sheet for hand planes. I am having a hard time coming up with any examples in my online research, but I have put together something like this: Manufacturer/Builder: Stanley-Lie Nielsen-Clifton etc Type: smoothing-jack-joiner etc Size: No.8 - No.4 - No.8C etc Patent Date(s): Body Material: bronze, wood, metal, aluminum etc Body Length: Body Width: Overall weight: Frog Angle: Iron Type: O1, A2, etc Knob Material: wood - plastic - metal etc etc That is what I have thus far, any help in adding, or taking away unnecessary items in the spec list would be most helpful. Also any feedback at all on the list I provided is greatly appreciated, such as you do not agree, redundancy, un clear, etc. Thanks for any help folks! This list is a template for article creation in our new wiki, when an editor (our members) creates a research article about a hand plane, this list will be auto populated into the article for the editor (our members) to fill out. UPDATE 5-15-16: The items in red were added by feedback replies below. Thank you for your help!
  16. Courtland


    From the album: Collage of Interesting Images

    I love fillisters, they look cool, they harken back to our beginnings as woodworkers, and they just feel good too.
  17. Courtland

    hand plane

    From the album: Collage of Interesting Images

    Some really neat hand plane and fillister images, I just like the colors here, you can't go wrong with wood tones!
  18. Had this been a real expensive plane, you would have heard about it. just not from me. Needed to make a 1/2" wide rebate for the screen to set it. Router bit only goes to 3/8" wide, maybe. Got to looking around, found an older plane I made. Set the fence to 1/2" wide. clamped a test piece to the bench first. A small hammer to make a few adjustments. Then, I clamped the top rail for the screen door to the benchtop, and gave it a whirl After a few trips along the edge. Helps to go with the grain. A few more trips along the edge And one edge is done. It will hold the screen frame just fine. One problem with that Traditional Chinese Skewed rebate plane. No depth stop. Got out the wards #78 to check how deep the rebate went. It was a bit high in a couple spots, 78 leveled them out. Now I just have to make three more rebates But, not too bad for a homemade plane? Wasn't even any sign of a chatter, just a lot of curlies flying out the side of the plane..
  19. Last weekend I was attended the local auction and this Millers Falls hand plane came up for auction. I had looked it over before the auction and knew it had the wrong lever cap. I did a little checking before the auction and determined it was from the WWII era. Since the side of the body had the Millers Falls No 9 then I knew the Stanley lever cap didn't belong with this plane. Between 1936 and 1941 the number was removed from the front of the plane to the right side and stamped into the plane. So with that bit of information I knew the plane was at least in the era to begin with. But further information helped me to find a type study and get the plane closer. When the plane came up for auction I was able to purchase it for 11.00. When I got home I found a correct lever cap for 12.00 and purchased it. So now it has all of the correct parts for a Millers Falls No. 9, Type 3 made between 1941 and 1949. It has the red frog and steel adjustment knob. The logo on the blade has the inverted triangle and 1868 inside. They also had Since 1868 on some of them. So there is one on eBay listed for $150.00 right now. I guess it is only worth what someone will pay for it though. The one on eBay is not mine. Just love finding this when I am out Patriot Picking.
  20. Awhile back, picked a Scioto works #8 coffin style smooth plane at an antique toy store.    Missing a bolt to hold the iron and chipbreaker together.   Missing the strike button on the backside.    So, Found a tap that was close to the size i needed to make a new thread in the chipbreaker.   Turned out to be a 10-1.5 Metric plug tap.    Ok, we have the matching bolts at work.    Brought one home that I found on the floor.   It came out of the shelving system they use.    Takes a 6mm allen wrench to loosen.   Ground the head down a bit, to almost flat.   And still leave a bit for the wrench to grab into.  Shorten the threaded part a bunch.   had to clear the wedge.    Sharpened the iron  back up, adjust the chip-breaker for a better fit.   Beltsander and sandpaper on a tile to sharpen the iron.   A look at the back side Soaked the wood body in a BLO/ Varnish/ Walnut stain mix.....about ten coats.    Wood was VERY dried out.   Markings on  the iron are from Ohio Tool Co.    Thistle Brand Made in USA Took a handplane to the sole for a tune up. nise was worn quite a bit.   Got the sole nice and flat, and gave it a coat Yep, there is a crack in the heel.    Right where the missing strike button USED to be.   Guess that is why it is AWOL.    Decided to make something to take it's place.    Didn't like the idea of a carriage bolt stuck up in there.   Didn't have a big enough bolt, so, a washer of sorts was made, and a smaller bolt added.    Filled the hole with glue, and tapped the parts in place Almost like a Lincoln's spare tire..... Got everything back together for a test drive The shaving is the full width of the pine scrap I was using.    Had it set a bit deep, though.     Not too bad for a $5 plane  
  21. Or trying. Got a frame all cobbled up Might need a little fine tuning. Got a panel ready to fit inside this frame Speed square to guide the circular saw to make that cut. Blade was set to almost cut through. Rather than mark up my fancy jigs. Needed to bevel four outside edges, like a raised panel Clamped the panel flat onto the jig. Worked the end grain edges first. Just used a Jack plane for this. Marked a line 1" in from the edge, and started to plane back to the line, at a bevel. Get to about 1/2" thick on the edge, and reclamp to do another edge. OK, that was strange, photo posted to the top? Well, after the edges were beveled until them met in a diagonal line at the corners, I flipped the panel over, and set up a Wards #78 And cut a rebate around the panel's inside edges. A Test fit Fine tune it a bit, add a bit of glue, and some real clamps......One end panel is now glueing up, and sitting in the pipe clamps. Taking up most of the bench space. Will just have to wait awhile, then do the other end. Stay tuned, might be a tool chest show up? Planer? I'm the 'planer', and these are what I use...
  22. I am so ready for a weekend and a few days rest from therapy, not that I won't be doing it here at home this weekend, I just don't have to go through the measuring. Today was a good day and I spend about 15 minutes on the knee bending machine. So it moves back and bends the knee and then straightens back out. I was able to get 111 degrees of bend today so I am making great progress, but I have to get to at least 120 before the Dr. will release me. After a day of therapy and the bending machine, the bicycle and them helping me bend and measure it, I was ready to get in the chair and rest it. When I am up on it for a little while it swells up pretty good. Enough of that, I did get a little while in the shop today. I finished taking the finish off a night stand for a friend of mine. First time I have been in the shop much at all and I really enjoyed it. I even had time to do a little clean up on a Stanley 1910 No. 5 I have been working on for a while. Still got a bit more to do to have it ready to cut and put on display but it is coming along. So I have a few more grits to go through and hope to get to do that this weekend and finish this one up. I have two more in different stages on the other bench. What is on your weekend Patriot Woodworker Agenda this weekend? Are you starting a new project, rehabbing a new/old tool, working on your shop, doing home improvement or spending some time in the lawn? We love to see what other Patriot Woodworker are doing and enjoy it when you share your projects with us. So don't delay, post those projects and project pictures here and so us what you are working on.
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