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Found 7 results

  1. After milling and sizing the sides and ends, it was time to layout the dovetails. I use a shop made angle layout jig for the tails. I'm a tails first dovetail person. I know there are folks who do the pins first and there are valid arguments to each procedure. This is how I learned to do them and it works for me. I use a marking knife for laying out the dovetails and a marking gauge to locate the dept of cuts. As for cutting the the dovetails, I really like the Japanese pull saw. I only have the Dozuki (cross cut) but it works OK for all of the cuts. Maybe one of th
  2. The sides and ends needed to have dados to accept the top and bottom. So as not to have the dados extend through the pins, stopped dados would do the trick. These were made on the router table. 1/4" wide and 5/16" deep. It was time for a little finessing of the joints to assure everything fit. Yes, there it was staring me right in the face! How could I not see what I did. Worse yet, how am I going to fix it now?!?!?!? I picked up the test piece and it finally hit me! If I cut the top completely free, there will only be one pin for the lid "tail". There will be no str
  3. Having solved the problem of the non-supported dovetails in the lid, I made a dry fit of the sides and ends Most often, I like to make actual measurements rather than rely on what I calculated the size of the pieces I'll need. The good old Stanley Folder is my go-to tool for this type of measurement. Once the dimensions are taken, I can size and create the top and bottom. Both pieces were made from glue-ups. The top is 1/2" stock. The bottom is created from some thinner stock glued up to make the panel.; then planed to 1/2" thick. The bottom and top s
  4. Once everything was properly fitted, the case was disassembled and prepped for gluing. I had previously sanded all of the pieces to 150 grit- except the top and bottom. Those two were sanded to 220 grit due to the difficulty of sanding them in place. I taped the locations where the dovetails intersected- on the inside of the box- to help eliminate a lot of glue squeeze out cleanup. Assembled one end and two sides. Dropped in the top and bottom. Then glued in the last end piece. Some clamps, checked for square then set it aside for a day- Next up, was fixing the dovetail error.
  5. The final installment of this project is just a little follow-up on the last details. My friend supplied the hardware and liner for me to install. The latches snap securely and installed easily, as did the hinges. The only caveat was that the sides of the case were 1/2" thick and the screws were a little longer. The difference isn't noticeable due to the type of liner he chose. The short protruding nibs actually help keep the foam in place. I had never worked with this material. There are a few videos on the Internet explaining how to cut and shape it to your
  6. OK folks, time to put on your thinking caps. Like most of y'all, I have several hobbies outside of woodworking. I love to build and fly kites but I'm also a "gun guy" so one of my next projects is going to be building an American flag gun case. The idea behind the case is to build a piece of eye candy that will hang on the wall built it will double as a secure hide-a-way for a few guns that can be quickly accessed. Here's my dilemma. I want the case to be secure from inquisitive children but also have quick access to the weapons so I need a system to secure the guns but also be able to qu
  7. From the album: Gene's Stuff

    Mesquite and maple. Purchased Hardware.
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