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Found 38 results

  1. So as I've been building storage in the shop I have yet to put any kind of finish on well anything. I've built a few wall hung cabinets, a router table, a smaller drill cabinet, the outfeed table, a rolling cabinet that holds and stores the Kreg Foreman, the miter station, and rolling clamp cart. And then a few jogs like the crosscut sled and so on but haven't put nay finish on anything yet. Is this normal, personal choice, or otherwise not wise? I admit I'm not the best at putting a finish on anything that isn't for the formal part of the house but that's a two part thing. 1st I'm not all that thrilled about the finishing process and 2nd I'm not always sure it's really needed. On formal pieces I see the value in both finished look and protection plus it usually will bring out the characteristics of the wood itself such as grain and features. For the shop I'm not sure what I gain other than additional work. Can someone chime in on what is most appropriate? Am I just lazy or is it simply a personal choice? Are there real world advantages in putting finish on shop storage and jigs? As for the sliding jigs I do wax the runners and such as well as keep a good finish on my metal tables (table saw, band saw, jointer, planner, and so on)
  2. I am about to inherit some blue stained pine. I am to "make something out of it". It is what I call "story wood" that carries as much history with it more than being some high quality piece of wood. I will make some sort of box that is not to be used heavily or often in hopes of protecting it. I've read some older posts on other sites about blue stained pine. I thought I would see if there are any new thoughts about working with it: . What might I do to harden pine so it doesn't scratch or dent quite as easily? . What might I do to finish it such that it doesn't ruin the natural blue coloring? Maybe there is a single answer to both questions. Robert
  3. Hello, I am to the stage of finishing the kitchen cabinets I have been making for my sister ski condo. In the first time in my woodworking life, I have purposefully attempted to contain as many knots in the wood to make it rustic. The wood I have used to make them is rustic hickory. I need to fill most of the knots before I can finish with a clear coat. I have seen some YouTube videos of filling gaps with black tinted epoxy. This is what I know; you put tape on the back of the board to keep the epoxy in the gap and mix up black epoxy and pore it in the knots or gaps. Has anyone out there done this? I need some pointers where to get the epoxy and the black colorant. Best regards, Ron
  4. Woodworking tutorials, education and blogs and a finishing supplies store by Don Williams.
  5. Here is an article on cold weather finishing. Note that it is supplied by a vendor so they lean toward their product. Remember that finishes "cure" by one of three methods Evaporation of the solvent (spaghetti) lacquer, shellac, and wax Chemical reaction with oxygen (tinkertoys) varnishes (that also contains a dilutent that evaporates off first) and oils Bonding of large molecules that have been softened (soccer balls) water borne The first dry fast (minutes) but to fully cure take a bit longer, the second and third get solid in a few hours, but can take up to 21 days to fully cure. Note that most chemical reactions double their speed with every 18F (10C) rise in temperature, conversely take twice as long when temperature drops, or may stop completely.
  6. From the faces I put one these folks they don't seem too happy but I'm still in the finishing stage so maybe they will cheer up before I get them shined showered and shaved! The baby was wrapped in swattling clothes and I couldn't find any of those while building this picture...
  7. Looking for some use for those old bandsaw blades and found you can cut and bend them into great work supports for finishing.
  8. Like most having a fan is a must sometimes. Whether it be for the heat, to aid with drying, or just air circulation. But the thing is always in the way, taking up real estate on a bench you would be happier full of more junk,.... I mean stuff. At first I mounted it to the ceiling and put it on a plate that swiveled. Worked but still in the way and was a pain to take down. Then someone gave me some t channel track for a garage door. Now this had potential. Made a carriage to slide on the track and mounted the fan. It already swiveled up and down all I needed was side to side. The track allows me to move it back and forth along that side of the wall. Took some trial and error as I worked out various kinks. Was going to balance the thing so it could be moved one handed. Hung a c clamp on the end of a stick and figured out the weight. Finally asked myself why am I screwing with this. You have two hands, lets paint this and get on to something else. LOL Small project, not much time but nice to get the thing out of the way when needed, but always ready to go. Enjoy, be inspired.
  9. Having done a dry fit I took it all back apart and spent a few evenings painting, or staining and some urethane for a finish. Reassembled and reinstalled finished product. This gives me a much needed run to the bench from an existing outlet for the bandsaw. Even added a future outlet for a potential 10 inch bandsaw if I ever come across one reasonable priced. Free is always better but that has not materialized as of this evening. While I could have just left the PVC white and called it a day I had a friend that has a drainpipe in a cubby hole. His wife wanted to add a shelf and was curious could this be done and if so could it be made so it did not look like a sewer line. I suggested a shelf with supports and then paint the PVC a color that blended with the stained wood. As a demo of what this would look like I did mine in this way. They looked at the pics and agreed this was the way to go. This is not glued together, I painted the entire surface, this gives adequate seal. To test it I hooked up a fog machine and smoked the entire thing then went and checked for leaks. As expected the valves leak a small amount, I expected that. This stuff is from a Rigid kit I bought from the borg years ago. Not exactly high quality but it does work. For those curious about the picture frame see the last picture. It hides the water separator/ regulator and main shut off valve for the shop compressed air. My solution to not having it out where it can be damaged. I have several outlets in various places through out the shop with the only thing exposed being the hook up valve. Also have on in the eave of my carport for those times I need to air up a tire or work on a vehicle. Would have preferred to have 4 inch pipe for the entire set-up bit the lay of the shop just would not accommodate that. You work with what I have, not what you wish for my Grandfather would often tell me. Sage advice. While this is overkill, I enjoy the craft. Making something from scraps or almost nothing. Doesn't matter to me if it is for the shop or for something in the house the creative process is what I enjoy. Nothing is more satisfying than finishing a project, shop or otherwise and having a drink and admiring the work. Enjoy and be inspired.
  10. Got this 12 inch Grizzly a few years ago. At the time I did not have Dust Collection piped to where I put it. So I improvised and used a short hose and a bucket. it worked, not well but was better than dust everywhere. Finally got around to upgrading this bench and gave myself a few goals. I mounted the sander to a plate that locks in at the back to the bench. Just in case I need to move it, it will happen people. Then I decided I needed dust collection done right. The saw points the wrong way for the outlet so I had to get creative to reverse directions. Another goal was to store the sandpaper disc on the unit. I put that behind the sander. Cut a circle from 1/4 inch ply and stacked 3 old 10 inch sawblades for weight. Ran a bolt through it all and a knob on top. To remove paper pull knob and there you go. Not liking the white PVC I painted it black. Not needed but it has a finished almost factory look to it so hey it's classy okay? Got it all done and hooked up a 6 ft hose from the nearest DC outlet I had. yeah it worked but I said to myself, you can and need to do better. So I began the next stage which pipes all the way to the wall with a extra outlet and a shelf. That part is not done yet, but soon enough. Enjoy and be inspired.
  11. Pulled this from another site. Apparently Charles Neil is uploading his finishing videos- https://www.youtube.com/user/InTheWorkshop/videos
  12. I just wanted to update folks on the status of Kieth Mealy as our Finishing Forum Host. At last contact it sounded like Keith was up to his eyeballs with life and business and he is just having a heck of a time getting back here with us. Believe me, I know how he feels, sometimes just to squeeze in a few minutes can be a daunting task, and it stays in the back of your head as something you know you need to do, but just can't, then ya start to feel bad about not being able to get it done, and then the task just becomes a pain in the rear to have lurking in the back of your brain, yep, we all been there! We have not had contact with Keith for a little while now so that means he is being driven hard elsewhere, and we should respect that and wish him the best in his business and his family. As you can see in the image of Keith and kids, he is performing a much more important task, sharing his knowledge with the younger generation, and he is teaching the kids how to extract honey! Hey he has other hobbies ya know! I want to personally thank Keith for the time he spent here, his weekly finishing topics and his interaction in forum topics and posts, were and still are highly valued here on TPW, and are now a permanent part of our information structure, and that my friends is priceless. You can't buy information like Keith shared with us, the information that Keith dispersed here in the Finishing Forum can only be gotten from a man in the business, and with years of experience behind him, and you cannot put a value on that my friends. Like our Scrolling Forum Host Fred Wilson, Keith is moving on to being a laid back low key member of The Patriot Woodworker, where the stresses of meeting deadlines with the weekly topic are no more, and the contentious meetings on The Patriot Woodworker corporate jet are no more, and also his six figure salary as well that he earned as host, is no more. But one thing for sure, a legacy of wonderful information and knowledge in the sometimes mysterious field of finishing, has been left behind by our friend Keith Mealy. We wish him the best in all he does, and we hope someday he'll drop on by and just say howdy, we do miss him. If anyone has a direct "Bat Line" to Kieth, please let him know he is thought of highly here, and we are forever grateful for the time he spent here. Cheers folks!
  13. To get a nice sheen on a turning after sanding thru the higher grits, grab a handful of shavings, dial up the lathe RPM's and hold the shavings against the spinning piece.
  14. I just read this interesting sanding article. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworking-tips-1210oct/tracecoat.html Herb
  15. A great week here for the Patriot Woodturners. Just today, @Steve Krumanaker posted his gorgeous, finished "Maple Rocks" bowl- Steve posted more information and images here- @Smallpatch is making more progress on his teapots. He posted his updated progress- @Steve Krumanaker is preparing to give a demo to the turning club, of which he is a member. Steve pointed out how much work it is to create/give a successful demonstration. When properly done, the audience gets information in an enjoyable, fluid manner. But, demos don't just happen by accident. Planning, preparation and practice are required to pull off a demonstration without a hitch. Just some of what Steve did getting ready- He explains more, here- By the way, those seed starter makers are a great gift. I made some a few years ago for relatives. Mike Peace added a YouTube video on selecting lathe chuck jaws. Specialized jaws can really be an asset for different turning projects. I wish Mike would have done the Easy Wood Chuck jaws. Their add/remove mechanism is unique. Capt. Eddie continues to produce videos. He recently added one on finishing a turning. He demonstrates an inertia sander which is really handy for spindle and bowl sanding. He has a hardware kit available for making these sanders. Rick Turns has made available the YouTube listing of woodturning videos for May. If you enjoy finding an all-in-one place reference, please give Rick a quick thanks on his YouTube channel. The Woodturning OnLine Newsletter came this week. There are several interesting projects. A video by Todd Raines demonstrates how he turns flags. He uses a neat method to make multiple, exact copies. There are several nice jigs that can be applied to just about any lathe operation. Another project is making a fishing reel, by Mike Darlow- What's great about this project is that when you follow the link, you end up at the Woodcraft site. From there you can gain access to many of the articles/projects previously published in the Woodcraft magazine. A general list of topics is shown on the left side of the web page. https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/a-fishing-reel There is also an article on photographing projects. @Gerald created a super blog on photography, here on The Patriot Woodworker, and this article adds nicely to that. The article is written in Microsoft word (.doc) and is by John Lucas. http://nebula.wsimg.com/17b9a4c07da5b3c10dc5dfa5f30aa453?AccessKeyId=8E1EC0DC707F1FE36FCB&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 The entire Woodturning OnLine newsletter is at- http://www.woodturningonline.com/index.php Safe turning
  16. Sorry guys, not too much this week. Between subbing, doctor appointments, vet appointments and puppy training- shop time has been very limited. @PostalTom showed us a sweet little bowl he made for his woodturning club exchange challenge- Check out how Tom made sure the paper clips don't get away! @Gene Howe Sent me this link. It has some nice turning accessories, from Ron Brown, including several types of chucks. Check out Mr. Brown's website at- http://admailemail.com/view/47157c1/4881dc/ @Gerald asked a question about the finish we like to use on bottle stoppers. My personal favorite is oil based poly. It seems to stand up to handling and moisture. Why not checkout Geralds post and give him your favorite- Easy Wood Tools ( @Jim from Easy Wood Tools ) is presenting free tool demonstrations this coming weekend. If you are near Buffalo Grove, IL or Orland Park, IL, why not stop in and try out these fantastic tools! Mike Peace put up a short video with some turning tips. A couple of great ideas- Holding lathe work can often be challenging. Turner devise all sorts of jigs/chucks to be able to turn their projects. Captain Eddy put up a video a little while back demonstrating some ideas for holding work- Safe turning
  17. Why is finishing so confusing? 1. Finish cans lie. Well, soften it a bit if you must, and call it mislead, but really. They don't always indicate what is inside. Examples; "Tung Oil Finish" - you would think this is tung oil. Nope, usually it's an oil-varnish blend or a thinned (wiping) varnish with little to no tung oil in it or even as a raw component. Linseed oil is more commonly used. "Water-based Lacquer" - if you have experience with nitrocellulose lacquer, a product that has been around 100 years, you will be surprised that this is really a different product that has nothing to do with traditional lacquer "Water based polyurethane" - again, it might have a small percent or urethane resin, but it's mostly acrylic and will look and behave much differently from the oil-based poly you've been using for years "Urethane - Oil blend" - well, this one is just a varnish. Varnish is made by heating (urethane) resins and oil until they become a different product - varnish. This is like going down the bread aisle and seeing a loaf labeled "flour-yeast blend." "Danish Oil", "Antique Oil", "Velvet Oil" etc. Well you get corn oil from corn, olive oil from olives, soybean oil from soybeans. We do not squeeze Danes, antiques, or velvet to get these oils, often thinned varnish or oil-varnish blends. Sometimes the MSDS (now known as SDS) will tell you what the true components are. A Google search for them is a place to start. But even then a lot hide behind "trade secret" "proprietary" or jam up simple mineral spirits with a fancy name like "Aliphatic hydrocarbon" The CAS (Chemical Abstracts Service) number is unique and cuts through all the BS, when it is provided on the SDS. Again, Google might help. 2. Myths. There are hundreds of myths out there about finishing. Bob Flexner's book on finishing is full of sidebars on them. Like all myths, they tend to get repeated and passed down as truth. Flexner has what he calls the "half-right rule" -- half of what you read or hear about finishing is true. You just don't always know which half. And yet the myths persist. YouTube and Pinterest have accelerated the spread of them. Abraham Lincoln once said, "Don't believe everything you read or see on the internet." I recently asked a major manufacturer's technical support group a simple question about one of their products. Their response was completely incorrect based on what I know about that particular product. And good luck asking the guy at the big box working in the paint department that used to be a truck driver. 3. Chemistry, not physics. Finishes work by chemistry - solvents, evaporation, polymerization, chemical reactions. You can't see this happen, but only the results. When you are woodworking, it's physics. You can see if an edge is square, if a joint is tight or gapped, if a surface is smooth or warped, etc. With finish, you apply it and sit back and watch. Some knowledge will help you get around the confusion.
  18. Why is finishing important? · First thing someone else sees · Can make or break a project · Always in a rush First thing someone else sees Rarely will someone say, "Wow, those are beautiful mortise and tenon joints," or "You did a really good job bending those chair arms." But they are more likely to say, "What a lovely color," or "This table top is silky smooth." Can make or break a project Imaging spending a lot of time building a project, then having the stain splotch, the finish run, get bubble, or alternate shiny and dull spots. Dag. Always in a rush Often we spend a lot of time constructing a project, then just want to get it done. A friend who worked in a high end furniture factory once told me that they spend as much money and labor in the finishing as they do in the construction. And most magazine articles will spend 8 pages and pictures on how to build all the parts and assemble them. In the last paragraph, you'll read something like, "Apply the stain and finish of your choice..." Lots of help there, huh? You don't have to like finishing to be good at it, you just need to understand it. And allow some time to get it done right. It WILL make a difference. And if you understand it, you may come to like it.
  19. I used a glaze made by Star Chemical Co. Raw Sienna thinned down turned out to be real close.. This was what I thought I was best at of all the wood working and related chores associated with wood....matching shades of old furniture people brought in to match...
  20. Having our first snow of the season. A little Alberta Clipper. It will probably be enough to make the grass white. We have another day or so to finish up The Patriot Woodworker Raffle for our Gold Star Family. If you haven't bought a ticket, there is still time! Also, again, a reminder that tagging your posts really helps visitors/members locate information for which they search. Tags are easy to do and only takes an extra second to complete. @Ron Altier posted a great question this week about using shavings as a method of finishing a turning. Check out the post and the ensuing discussion- Ron also posted a new Christmas ornament. It's a real beauty- The latest issue of Woodturning OnLine has lots of great information. They are featuring a project from Carl Jacobson which is very timely as winter begins in earnest. Carl makes a turned , rustic bird feeder. Great idea for our little feather friends- not so much for those pesky squirrels. There is also a PDF tutorial from Colin Spencer on turning a "pentagon" bowl. It can be seen at- https://www.woodturningonline.com/assets/turning_projects/Pentagon bowl instructions.pdf Check out the entire issue at- http://www.woodturningonline.com/index.php Rick Turns has posted his list of turning videos for the month of November. Rick has developed, undoubtedly, the most extensive listing of turning videos on YouTube. I'm not sure but I believe Tim Yoder has been sipping the spiked eggnog- Safe turning
  21. I was watching a video of a guy turning a pepper mill and he was sanding the turned piece. Then he did something I've never seen before. He grabbed some of his wood waste shavings and held it against his turning piece. He had already sanded it down to a very fine finish. I can't see this as being any more effective than very fine sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. I will try it................Do you use this technique?
  22. skiler

    Cherry Finish

    Anyone have any advice on finishing Cherry? I haven't worked with it before and I am making a flag case for some friends. Picture of the raw wood attached.
  23. When spraying Bullseye shellac with a HVLP, should I thin it? If so, how much? Using DNA.
  24. John Morris


    This image is licensed to this community for re-use within our community graphics.

    © The Patriot Woodworker

  25. TGIF Cold weather finishing As fall progresses, shops get colder and we need to understand what finishes we can use in cooler shops. Let’s remember, finishes cure in one of three ways Evaporative (Spaghetti*) – these finishes cure by evaporation of their solvent. And when dry, they can re-dissolve in the same solvent. Examples: Shellac, Lacquer, Wax Reactive (Tinkertoys*). These finishes cure in two steps. First the thinner evaporates, known as “Flashing off.” Then the finish molecules form long chains by the chemical reaction with oxygen, known as “polymerization. Examples: Varnish of all types, drying oils such as linseed and tung Coalescing (Soccer balls*) These finishes also cure in two steps. First the thinner evaporates, then the larger molecules of finish, softened by the solvent, get close and bond to each other as the solvent evaporates. Example: Water-borne finishes, where water is the thinner and glycol ethers are the softening solvents. Flexner uses these analogies* to explain the differences Before looking at each of these, a basic chemical principle is that heat effects chemical reactions. The general rule for most reactions is that every increase of 10C or 18F degrees doubles the rate of reaction. Thus every reduction of 10C/18F doubles the length of reaction. Another thing to remember is that reactive and coalescing finishes can take several weeks to fully cure – long after they are dry to the touch. So what about finishing in a cold shop: Evaporative finishes – these will cure, though at a slower rate because the evaporation may be slower. Air movement will help. Reactive finishes – these will also cure, but also at a slower rate. Again, providing fresh air (i.e., oxygen)will assist in getting the reaction to occur. Just give it more time. If you need to thin, turpentine, a slower flashing off thinner, may help to getting it to flow out and level a little better. Coalescing finishes – these are the exception. They don’t cure well at lower temperatures, typically 65F. May vary by brand, but should not be your first choice in cool shops. Of course, one option is to finish the item in your shop and move into a spare room in the house (with SWMBO’s approval) to keep the curing on track.

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