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Found 3 results

  1. I've just received a molder set and dado set; I'm planning to use them on my Shopsmith Mark V/500. I'm wanting to build a rip fence (vertical) extension which can also be used as a sacrificial for work right up against the fence. Right now I'm planning to use a 1 x 8 x 2' piece of lumber and dado out a 3/4" wide x 3/8" deep slot lengthwise where I can mount a pair of featherboards to help control the work as it moves past the heads. I have one featherboard from Shopsmith already; I was planning to mount that horizontally before the blade. Last I checked Rockler had some featherboards on sale; I was going to get two from them and then cut my slot so that they come down within 1/2" of the saw table at maximum extension. First question: Does this sound like a good plan? Second question: What kind of wood would the more experienced hands here recommend? I should be able to get poplar for $7.88, oak for $11.28, and then of course there's always whitewood or softwood. I'm new at this and I'll always be able to go back and re-do it in the future if necessary, but what would the old hands suggest to a beginner?
  2. Years ago I came up with this idea for cutting strips by using my wooden feather board. I submitted it to a wood magazine. I won $25 and signed away all rights. As you can see, I just installed roller bearings. It worked very good. 3 months later, in a wood working sale flyer, there it was and labeled as "Dual use feather board, exciting new tool" That was my last submission of any kind.
  3. A featherboard is great for controlling feed at the table saw, bandsaw, or router table, preventing kickback and keeping a workpiece firmly pressed against a fence for both safety and accuracy of cut. But there are times when a featherboard is best raised up off the table. For example, when rabbeting at the table saw, (Read more....)
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