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Found 52 results

  1. Recorded at Sagnlandet Lejre, Historical Archaeological Research and Communication Center, Denmark, August 2012 I was surfing around and found this wonderfully delightful snippet of a short film about 4 minutes long, showing how the makers of textiles performed their work before machines, and how Danish artisans, and I am sure others the world over, create textiles by hand today. Thank you Lissa Hall. Enjoy
  2. Here is another oak hollow form with black and orange dye. Was supposed to have a collar but it warped too much so opened the top a little. It is about 4 inches in diameter.
  3. Finally got around to making some photos of my new turnings. This one is Bradford Pear dyed with Chestnut Stains. Finish is lacquer. I tried something different on the dye because I got the idea when applying the stain . I applied a full width application all the way down the piece and then started only going part way down the side to get the effect you see in the picture looking like a run down the sides. That gave me the idea to do the whole thing that way so I had to sand off the first full pass. The wood was almost burned because that void at the top was rotten into the center.
  4. Gerald

    Oak and Dye

    Well I have been tied up with my Offering Plate project for some time now and this is part of a little break i took last week. This piece of white oak had been hollowed for some time so decided it was time to finish it up. As it was drying it developed a few cracks and somehow some staining so I decided dye as the best finish. Applied Chestnut Stains Royal Blue and then sanded most of the color off below the rim. Now to add yellow and of coarse Y + B = G. topped that off with semi gloss lacquer. Maybe more to post later this week. By the I almost sanded this one off and start over as the wife did not like the color scheme and she suggested I call the DIL . Well you see the result
  5. Just when I thought I saw the light at the end of the tunnel, I realized it was a long freight train heading in my direction... Our Patriot Turners- @Gerald Showed us a hollow form to which he added color. He received lots of questions and compliments about this piece. Please check out his post and see how he did this- @HandyDan shared a really neat design he found. If you have ever struggled with moving you lathe (or any heavy piece of shop equipment) this might just be the ticket. Check Dan's post for additional concepts- Last week's post, from @FlGatorwood, concerning the skew heel vs. toe discussion generated lots more comments. If you missed the post or want to see what others had to say- @Ron Altier gave us a heads up on a really cool video. Lots of turning being shown, as well as other types of woodworking. What’s Coming Up- The Rocky Mountain Woodturning Symposium is coming up! September 13th- 15th. Click on the above image for the link to more information and registration. For The Newbies- @Gerald provided us with a link to a nice sanding disc holder. Check out Gerald's post for the link and some of the comments- If you are thinking about buying a lathe, Mike Peace posted a video that may help you. Expand Your Horizons- Off center turning can create some really interesting shapes. Sam Angelo demonstrates turning a teardrop shape. New Turning Items- If you have a "Work Sharp" machine and wanted to be able to use CBN sharpening wheels, you are in luck!! The folks over a Woodturners Wonders now have just what you've been looking for!!! Two sided discs in various grits. Check them out at- https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/cbn-discs-for-work-sharp Everything Else- Rick Morris (Rick Turns) recently moved into a new shop. In this video, he shows us that even a new shop can't prevent Edward Murphy's Law from being applied- Safe turning
  6. I am interested in finding out how to infuse color into wood pieces, maybe 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches thick. Looking for ideas or references to accomplish this. Do I soak the pieces in aniline dye? If so, which is more effective in getting the color as deep into the wood as possible, alcohol or water? Should I use a pressure pot system, or maybe some kind of vacuum system? This won't be natural wood tones, but rather bright blues, reds, greens, etc. Any ideas will be appreciated.
  7. Gerald

    Mushrooms

    Was looking for something new for my booth and decided to get into mushrooms. I did some natural edge and some in a traditional shape. All colors are either Chestnut stains or Chroma Craft dyes. Finished them off with semi gloss lacquer. All wood is Crepe Myrtle.
  8. It appears the minwax penetraing stain actually also has a dye. Can anyone confrim this?
  9. a video going into details on what the differences are between dye and pigment stains. It also tells you how both react to different kinds of wood (e.g., maple vs. oak). If you buy a can of stain off the shelf, try to stir it with a paint stick. If there's sludge on the bottom and little color on the top, it's pigment only. If there's no sludge, it's dye only. And if there's both sludge and strong color on the upper part of the stick, it's a bit of both. The can won't tell you (and the customer service is unlikely to know, as I found out).
  10. For you guys that's worried about trying to decide what it is I do, I don't know either but I sure have fun in the shop at doing what ever it is. This new stuff is from Michaels and is less that 1.50 for a 2 ounce bottle after the discount...so I got 20 different colors.. With and with out the flash!!!! I haven't put any clear on yet. The stains I've been using for years is what I brought when we moved from the last house so I thought I would see what new products have come along since back yonder.. I didn't buy any wood color stains this time for I still have plenty.. The only thing wood color was some oak for his feet. Wife wants a dark purple background and lighter purple frame.. I used about a 1/20 of an ounce or less from each bottle for this project. Yes there is much higher priced dyes and stains to do the same thing, or close to the same...so what ever turns on each other...please choose your medicine by yourself.. I did get three bottles that has glitter added but there is hardly any stain in the solution so I will not get anymore of that and if I want glitter I will use glitter only on top and in between clear coats if that is to be added over the stained colors...
  11. Got my new stuff put away and decided to go in a different direction on a piece I had started. This pecan bowl looked like a good candidate for a colored rim. First layer with black and sand off. Second layer is red and sand. Next is yellow sand and then touch up with red. Now for lacquer. Using Chestnut Stains on this one. More May take a day or two since the winter gets here tomorrow.
  12. PeteM

    Acrylic dye

    I was looking to do some Christmas ornaments, and wanted a green color. I like dyes, so you can see the wood grain, but couldn't find any to suit. My sister (an artiste at crafting) suggested using acrylic paint and diluting it. Walmart sells about a billion different colors for about a buck each. Dilute the paint with about 25% water, and I got a really effective dye. Opens a whole new world.
  13. Can't say I'm half way through but at least I'm started on her stained glass Nativity Scenes. A little brighter color with clear lacquer. Each stand has a different width groove plus gluing in a plug on each end so the pine, yuck, don't close up as the seasons and humidity changes. Time it takes to do 130 or so boards is about 15 minutes total time for all pieces....so Howdy Duty will have to wait..
  14. Well for several weeks I have posted some pictures of this chest and I am happy to report to you that it is finished. Just a recap. Started with a visit to the Wood Stash and hand picked some of the best looking Cherry Boards from the stack. Cut them to size, ran them across the jointer and then through the planner. I then took the cherry boards and edge glued them together to make the panels for the front, back and both ends of the chest. Then I put two of these panels together to make a four board panel. Then I put the two four board panels together to make one large panel. Actually one of the panels had five boards.. Using my 50" Bessey clamps to hold the two panels together. So I had two long panels for the front and back and two short panels for the ends. Then I started working on a sample for the trim or molding to go around the top and bottom. After a few adjustments to the bits, I settled on the way I wanted to make the trim and started routing the pieces. First a couple of passes with the curved bit in the router and the with the round top bit and then a 1/2" round over bit. So I sanded the trim and then started on the feet for the chest. They are double boards so the chest actually sits on one board and the trim sits on the other board. There are blocks behind the feet to attach them to the plywood bottom. So everything is now trimmed up, miters cut and ready to put together. Now it is time to move it to the spray booth and put the water based dye on. I purchased an Antique Cherry dye and I really love the look it gave the chest. I sprayed it on and then took a damp paper towel and smoothed out the finish. If you get a bit much in a spot it is okay, you still have time to smooth it out. I put two coats on and then sprayed on five coats of General Finishes Enduro Var. It was them rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax.. So there you have the Cherry Blanket Chest from start to finish.
  15. My neighbor had some limbs cut and I picked up some of the pieces thinking firewood, but decided to turn some. Started doing hollowforms and then went on to try dye. It does not show well in the pic but there is violet sanded off and then yellow and then red. Used Chestnut spirit Stains and finished with lacquer. I turned this piece all the way to finish in one sitting and got no movement out of round and this is one of the smallest entry holes I have done so far.
  16. Gerald

    Red on Violet

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Live Oak dyed violet, then red, then yellow.
  17. One of our club members made a telephone amplifier so I searched and combined several ideas . The prototype done in pecan was not loud enough maybe due to thickness . The second done in Bradford pear is thinner and is the loudest. When I turned I left the tenon on so I could use it to glue into a backboard so it will not roll. Thought of maybe a flat on the bottom instead but that may reduce the resonance . So the last one I cut slots in and the sound is almost as loud but because of the slots there is a smoother sound.
  18. There are three major types of products that color wood. 1. Dye 2. Pigment 3. Chemical Dye Dyes are chemicals that dissolve into its solvent,that could be water, alcohol, petroleum distillates, or oil. You can find dyes at concentrates as liquids (such as TransTint), powders that you dissolve (Lockwood), or even as part of a canned stain (Minwax Golden Oak). Dyes are dissolved and do not settle out. If you are looking at a can of stain and stir with a paint stick, you will not find any solids at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount by which it is diluted. You can start with a full dose, then dilute part of it to various degrees (half, quarter, etc.) to get the amount of color you want. Keep careful records so you can replicate it if you are making your own dye solutions. Dyes give a very clear coloring, but are more prone to fading over time. Lightfast is more of a relative term. If you get the color too dark, you can wipe with the appropriate solvent and pull out some of the color or you can even add another color to adjust darkness, neutralize (e.g., too red, too yellow, etc.) Pigment Pigments are powders that are suspended in a carrier. Pigments lodge in the grain and pores of the wood (and the sanding marks if you are not careful). And as such, pigments tend to blotch on certain woods due to their varying porousness. Pigments will settle out to the bottom and if you stir a pigmented stain with a paint stick, you will find a muddy residue at the bottom of the can. You can control the color saturation by the amount you wipe off. You can also buy pigments in powder form to make your own products, you can even smudge some powder onto problem spots and lock in place with a spray. Or add pigments on a finishing wiping cloth and pad in some color. These methods are used in touchup. Pigments are usually more lightfast than dyes. Chemicals Chemicals change the color of the wood by chemical reaction. Generally these are acids or alkalis such as ammonia (fumes), lye, potassium permanganate, bichromate of potash, potassium dichromate, iron dissolved in vinegar (iron acetate). The resulting color is not reflected in the color of the solution and the same solution may work differently (or not at all) on different woods due to their different composition. Heartwood and sapwood may also color differently even on the same board. You "control" the color saturation by trials, length of treatment, and in some cases the concentration of the chemical. There are several disadvantages to chemical stains It's a "ready, fire, aim" approach. Run trials. but in many cases, it's going to do what it's going to do and you are not going to stop it. Wood from one tree may not color the same as wood from another tree. Many of these chemicals are toxic or caustic to your skin, eyes, and lungs. Do research and use carefully and with PPE and ventilation. They may be hard to find a place to purchase. A good application of some of these is in inlay work where a chemical may color some of the species, but not others. Again, research, choose woods carefully, and run a trial before slapping on and ruining weeks of work. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=12&ved=2ahUKEwitk4DxgczcAhWk6YMKHVmTBbsQFjALegQIABAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Femgw.org%2FResources%2FDocuments%2FPapers%20and%20Articles%2FChemicalStains.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0l3kGfTTJa7DxfVTrNs7oH An oddball colorant that does not really fit neatly into any of the above is Gilsonite, AKA asphaltic tar. You can use roofing tar dissolved in paint thinner/mineral spirits to get a mid- to dark-brown color. This is the colorant used in some "walnut" Danish Oil products. It's a nice color that is hard to get with the above. (c) 2018 Keith Mealy
  19. Gerald

    Bradford Pear dyed bowl

    From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Cherry stained and added golf wax
  20. Though I would give a step by step on the dye for this platter. Turn the platter back and finish. Reverse and turn the rim leaving center. Now for the dye use dark color or black and sand that back. On this case violet. after sanding apply second color , red. Now after sanding with more emphasis toward the center and apply yellow. oh there is a groove on the outside of the color to define the color line. Then time for finish applied before turning the center and more layers of lacquer.
  21. I had an ornament with a plain look and decided to try dye. The piece had been finished with lacquer . I applied Chestnut stains dye over the lacquer. This dye has shellac about 5% in it. After the dye was dried with heat gun I applied lacquer. Now for the question will this treatment lead to finish failure?
  22. I was working on a finishing presentation last week. I thought I had a reference in one of my books on decoding Minwax stains into pigment, dye, or both. I don't use them too much any more, but I happened to use some Golden Oak a few weeks ago. I've had good luck with it on red oak and I know it's dye based. But I could not find the reference. After much looking, I wrote to Minwax tech support and asked. They told me all they used were pigments. Idiot. I wrote to Bob Flexner to see if he had ever done the catalog. Low and behold, it's in this week's blog entry. I guess I'm his "woodworking friend." https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/is-there-pigment-or-dye-in-minwax-stains-does-it-matter
  23. Gerald

    Gift bowl w/flowers

    From the album: Hollow Forms

    Small hollow form with collar (cherry w/white oak and pecan w/padauk). Flowers turned from pecan and dyed w/ Chestnut Stains.
  24. From the album: Bowls and Platters

    Curly maple done in the Clewes style with rim dyed with Chestnut Stains layered in blue sanded down, then yellow and green. Finish on front is lacquer gloss.
  25. Hi all I am finishing a pine door with a medium brown water based dye, then two coats of shellac then water based poly. My problem is the dye on hardwood always colors everything evenly. The Pine is not acting that way. It seems to have some issue. When dyed it is even and uniform. But by the time the first coat of shellac is put on with a brush or foam brush the dye is not uniform. Would I be better off spraying the shellac? If so the alchol is quite flamable and I need to turn off the water tank and furnance. When I get home I will upload some pictures. My very kind spouse says she likes the variation. This is my first endevour with a closed cell softwood.
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