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Found 33 results

  1. I have a manual drill press ACME that was used as a yard ornament for years and now stands in my wife’s flower garden. I have had it there for about 20 years. It is rusted but on close inspection and it is not too bad. Every now and then someone will stop and ask if I want to sell it. It is frozen down where you can’t turn the manual wheel. I don’t want to force it and break it. It is a favorite but never gets used. My wife refuses to turn the handle. Preston
  2. My oldest daughter and I make a craft item that we sell. I have made several different sleds to cut the material but have needed a way to locate a pilot hole for a screw eye exactly in the center with out measuring. The craft item varies greatly in size depending upon what material I am cutting. My first effort worked, somewhat, but with sales increasing I needed something better. This was made from a wooden hand clamp from Harbor Freight and scraps from the shop. Part of the scraps was a section of maple bowling alley. The first picture is the finished jig. The second picture is of the core of the unit. The threaded rod from the hand clamp is held in place so when it is turned the jaws would open. Did you know that you cannot find a left-hand acme nut? To hold the rod in place I made thick washers from some UHMW and held them and the rod in place with a nail acting as a roll pin. The most important part of this was making sure the wood and washers’ thickness was so, when the jaws were close, they both were snug against the wood. The third picture is how I had to modify the clamp jaw. I had to drill a relief, so the washes were not in the way of the jaw closing. By clamping the jaws to the center block I was able to drill holes for guide rods. This was necessary to keep the jaws parallel since I was only using one of the threaded rods to operate the unit. The fourth picture shows how I had to cut the center block and the jaws for an aluminum track. The fifth picture shows the completed unit at my drill press. Sorry the picture is up-side down, but I tried to correct it, but nothing worked. The sixth picture is another view of the jig where you see a black knob to the left. Once the jig is centered and clamped to the drill press table, I need to move the jig to place the bit over the place I want the hole and then tighten it down. I made a centering block to positioning the jig. I located the center of the block and drilled the hole. I then turned the block 180 degrees to test it. I was off by 1/132” Not bad. That is more than enough for the craft item.
  3. Boy these Cornhole games sure are popular. Our neighbor's daughter is getting married this May and they asked me if I could build a couple Cornhole boards for them, they are going to have games at the wedding reception. I only first heard of this game because of @John Moody, John is the resident Cornhole builder in our community. So I know what little I do know by John's work, and I just scanned the internet really quick to get the regulation sizes of everything and I set to building their boards from wood I had left over from other projects. I have not had a full day in the shop in two years, really, no kidding, life has been quite a challenge and I was so happy to just get this day to make some dust on such a basic project, I loved it. I had my folk music going in the shop, a little bit of Johnny Cash, some Del McCoury and Bill Monroe, and tapered the day off with Hank and Waylon, man what a joyous day. It was just one of those days that lined up perfectly to do some "me" time and the family was completely ok with it. Also, I got to really get into my Shopsmith! And what a blast I had with it. So, I know they are just Cornhole boards, but what's more important, is that I had a day of fun, so if you want to see some boards, read on! I set up my outfeed table configuration to handle some mid size panels for the Cornhole boards. Ripped a couple pre-prefinished 3/4" panels I had left over from a prior project, I am getting used to my Shopsmith today. I then set up my outfeed table to handle ripping some narrow boards, the table needs to be set at the center of the table saw or in line with the blade, it was a quick operation, part of using these Shopsmith's is knowing what they are capable of, and how to maximize their ability, I am not there yet, I am only discovering the surface of what these machines are capable of. I pushed the oak boards through with minimal effort. Then I joined each board just to clean up the edges and to have a nice mating edge to the underside of the surface board. I need to align my Shopsmith fence as you can see a tad burning on the oak edge. I have not adjusted my Shopsmith yet since I purchased it, the gent I bought it from had it sitting in his garage for 15 years with no use, so no doubt I need to tune up the alignment. I have however oiled the sheeves and other areas and I tensioned the drive belt to specs before I used it. I used good ol pocket holes to mount the sides of the boards up to the surface board. I drilled out all my pocket holes first. Then I set to screwing the boards to the underside of the Cornhole deck. I swear Shopsmith and Rigid have a secret relationship, because my Rigid Shopvac hose is the perfect size for the table saw dust port, and the jointer dust port. I cut a small radius on the end of the back cornhole board legs, so they'll fold up and down easily. This bandsaw is really nice, I can't believe how something small and seemingly very simple in design, is so accurate and easy to use. I aint kidding folks, I like it better than my 15" Grizz I had. A very strong feature of the Shopsmith is the Drill Press operation, it's sweet, I like it, I am happy. Quiet, accurate, with an adjustable table for in and out, and up and down and of course since the power head operates the Drill Press, it's variable speed. Drilling the holes out for the carriage bolts. The back folding legs are mounted, you flip them up and lock them down by tightening the wingnuts, I used a 5/16" carriage bolt, washer and wingnut. Legs up. I still have to cut out the 6" diameter Cornholes, but mission basically accomplished. Our neighbors should like them, she is going to paint a mural on the deck of the Cornhole board, I think the LA Dodgers symbol. Any my baby put to sleep, she did well today, I was please with the operations, and I became more efficient at the changeovers, I am getting good at operating my Shopsmith, and it's turned out to be a great machine for my purpose, and, mama gets to park her car in the garage now! I hope John Moody approves of the way I made these boards, and if anyone has any tips on the building Cornhole boards I am all ears, I may do some for my family as well, not sure yet, depends if the kids want them or not. If you want to build your own boards, here is the site that John Moody directed me too, they have all the information and specs for them there. https://www.playcornhole.org/ Thanks for sharing a part of my day with me folks.
  4. I have a floor model Delta press and I would like to build an auxiliary table top for it. I've seen lots of plans and designs. I kind of like the Woodsmith version that has a pivoting fence system. Recommendations and comments, please.
  5. From the album: Sam Maloof Site Visit 2019

    Old hand drill press mounted outside the shop of Maloof
  6. Delta Floor Model Drill Press. I currently have it mounted on a 1 1/2" thick plywood base with wheels underneath which raises the whole thing about 4 1/2" above the floor. It's always felt a bit too high. My other recent post concerning adding an auxiliary table will make the work surface even higher. So I'm thinking that I should re-do the mobile base to get the work surface lower to the ground. Again, I've seen several designs and would appreciate your suggestions. Due to my 'shop' size I would like to keep the drill press mobile. I also thought about making a standing platform....hinge it to the front of the base to flip up when not in use or flip down when I need to do some drilling.
  7. Perusing Craigslist and found this wonderful example of a Shopsmith 10ER here in So Cal. And it's sister sitting beside it, both for $350.00. The ER in front was restored, if only I was ready to go down that road, I'd a snapped it up in a heart beat! Love the way they look.
  8. I made this firetruck for my grandson 12 years ago. I went to the internet to get ideas. I used exotic woods where I could. The ladder (curly maple) extends and swivels. The hose comes off the reel and cranks back up. I painted in all the gauges. I didn't have a lathe at that time and made the wheels and rims with the drill press. The lug bolts are tacks I found. He still loves it and is displayed in his room
  9. "Back From The Archives" I finally finished the restoration of this Walker Turner drill press. I restored this DP for a gentleman as payment for some machines that I got from him. You can read more about that here. In my opinion the 20 inch Walker Turner is one of the best drill presses ever made and I wish it was mine. This one came with the production table, 1 hp 3 phase motor, and power-feed. It was in pretty rough shape when I brought it into the shop ... Ugly blue paint job and lots and lots of rust. It's a floor model but as you can see in this pic I lowered the head so it wasn't so top heavy when transporting it. Disassembling the DP was a challenge. Everything was heavily rusted. To give you an idea of how bad it was, this is the inside of the gear box for raising and lowering the table. Rusted solid! I pulled off the motor, powerfeeder and spindle and then I used my old Hercules chain hoist to get the head off the column I then tried to get the table off, it was rusted solid to the column. It took a couple of weeks of soaking it with Acetone and ATF and lots of heat to finally get it to bust loose. The base was even worse. No amount of heat, penetrating oil or banging with a BFH was getting the job done. I finally had to make a puller, or I guess you would call it a pusher, out of an old barbell weight and three ½" bolts to push it off. Even then it took about 2 weeks to get it to budge a 1/16 of an inch, but once I got it moving it came off fairly easily. To get the rust and paint off I made an electrolysis tank and used a 30 inch saw blade for the anode. I put the base in for a couple of days and let it cook ... it got rid of most of the paint and rust. Next I used fine grit sand paper and scotch brite pads to shine it up. Then I finished removing the rest of the rust and old paint and prepped it for fresh paint. Three coats of paint and it was looking good as new. I used the same steps to clean up the head and table. The powerfeeder wasn't working when I first tried it. I took it apart and found a couple of the clutch discs were in wrong. It was then working but when I cleaned it up I found a couple busted gears. I informed the owner about it and he decided he didn't want it repaired so the powerfeeder didn't get put back on. The owner doesn't have 3 phase power in his shop so I added a Teco FM50 VFD. Now the motor will run on single phase 120 v power and the VFD also gives it variable speed which I really like. So here's some pics of the DP all restored. The DP looks and works great .... now I don't want to give it back to it's owner. Thanks for looking, Shane
  10. From the album: John's Shop

    My Smitty in drill press mode. I love my Smitty!
  11. Drilling a 4" circle in a hunk of ply it hit a hard spot and yanked it outta my hand. WhiZZZ BANG into my right side of the solar plexus. Knocked the daylights outta me. I got the machine shut down and then shock set in. I was a little dazed for a bit. Got a really nice bloody welt for my runner up prize. Full One Horse Motor too. To drill the rest of the holes ( there are lots of 'em) I set up a capture for the boards. Don't gotta tell me twice. It's an error that - - - well - - - wouldn't have happened on my old DP because the column would have stopped it And there's my thing. I have an obsolete habit that was fine under the older conditions. But this DP is a big Radial and the rules are all different. Gotta learn the new rules.
  12. I am curious, I have looked all over for an example of a Mark V mounted on a cabinet roll away similar to the 10er's. But have found none. I am curious why? I see plenty of SS's with a cabinet built to sit underneath, but what I am looking for are any ideas for building one that the Mark V can set on, thus eliminating the factory legs. It seems simple enough, but there must be a variable in design I am not seeing, that prevents this from happening. Any help is greatly appreciated. Shopsmith 10er on table, can this be done with a Mark V? Now just imagine a Mark V, I'd like to build a roll away cabinet for the Mark V to sit on, with drawers and doors. And flip down stop caster axles incorporated somehow, so just like the Mark V stand, with a flick of my foot, the cabinet rest on the ground.
  13. I bought this one for 85 bucks from a fellow who was selling a Rockwell Scroll Saw. I purchased the scroll saw, but I also saw the DP sitting there and he said he'd let me have it. So here it is, I have had it for about 6 years and love it. Plus, 85 bucks! You can't even get a bench top model for that much. The table is a Rockler thinga ma jig that I bought on a whim. It works, but it has it's draw backs, when I have the time, I will build my own. I love the old Allen Bradley switch the DP came with. The motor is not the original, I need to track down a 1hp Delta vintage motor.
  14. I have a small HF drill press that had a plastic collar to hold the depth stop. It was too flexible to be accurate, so I made a new one out of a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum. Herb
  15. Perfect spheres with a drill press on the lathe? Might just work.
  16. I have been wanting to hook up my vav to my drill press. I gave it some thought and came up with this. I used super magnets, an old lamp flex shaft and Dap Rapid Fuse glue. (It was free, from an offer on this site.) It held really great, however you must remember it is a CA glue and must be handled as CA. I custom made a wood block with 3 small super magnets and two large iron magnets. I put it on the bed post so it would always follow the work. It works really well and stays in place. The flex allows easy positioning.
  17. Saw this advertised on CL tonight...Something I'd never seen before & thought it was too cool not to share... Pictures are from the actual posting... https://fortwayne.craigslist.org/tls/6081346611.html
  18. Here's a neat tip for squaring the drill press table- http://www.woodsmithtips.com/2015/10/15/drill-press-checkup/?utm_source=WoodsmithTips&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=9998
  19. This video is a really slick way of finding and drilling true center without the lathe. We all have had a piece that we couldn't find center after removing from the lathe, because of poor planning.
  20. Simple survey. What should be the next tool band saw or bench drill press? If it's band saw, bench top or floor model? My primary source of wood are old pallets. my next big project will be a long book case with doors and offset shelves
  21. I needed to mount various vices and jigs to my drill press; this is what I came up with: I mounted a 1 1/2" floor flange to 3/4 ply with #14 screws, ground one side of a 1 1/2" nipple to fit the clamp on the DP. Now when I need to change jigs I loosen the DP clamp, lift the current jig and replace with what I need tighten and away I go. thoughts?
  22. I have some oddities in my shop. I try to be as organized as I can and some of my organizational methods, ehem, are somewhat to be desired to say the least! I have for years stored the chuck key to my Rockwell Delta Drill Press in a location that I know where it always is, and it also serves a secondary purpose as well. Here is the my beloved Delta Rockwell Drill Press. And the place I keep the chuck key, the original chuck key that came with the drill press is here. Please tell me I am not the only one that has an oddity in the shop such as this. This gate keeper, errr I mean chuck key has served it's purpose there for a decade since I have had this particular drill press. The chuck key is stationed right out the side door of my garage and my drill press is right next to the side door of the garage, I literally take two steps out the side door and I have the chuck key to use for my drill press. I always know where it is, it has never rusted from rain, and it keeps the gate latch secured. This is the gate that separates our side yard from strangers off the street. I have fought this feeling of shame for years now, not having a legitimate location to keep my chuck key, yes, I could keep it at the drill press, you know I actually did that once, and I lost it! Just to find it a day later, and I promptly installed it back in the gate latch where it serves double duty to this day. So there, I have confessed, and I feel great! Please tell me I am not the only one!
  23. Some of the handles for the Machines I am working on are missing or worn out. I see this a lot on the older machines that have been worked hard that i bring home to restore. Since I am doing a full restore I needed a way to fix the handles on the cranks/locks or what ever had turn handles. Here is what I came up with before I got my wadkin Pattern lathe. I thought that it would help those with out a lathe. First I take a bolt that will tap into the crank and put it in the drill press. I use a file and round the head while it spins. I then drill a hole through a piece of wood with a counter bore for the new head.I leave the bolt head a little high in the wood. i am using rose wood for this.   With the hole and the length cut,I draw a circle around the wood to the rough size. I ruff it out on the band saw. I now put the wood back on the bolt and add nuts to cover the threads, this gives me protection for the threads in the drill chuck.   Now remember I left the bolt head high . This is so I can crank the table up tight to the handle to give it more support as I file the shape of the handle I want and to keep it nice and round.   I shape the handle as much as I can and then lower the table to do the end with the bolt head. you can see the bolt head hole left in the mdf table. I then shape the bottom with a bastard mill file and sand to a shine     all I do now is tap the crank and JB/locktite weld the threads in to the taped hole so the wood spins or is tight. Most handles are a press fit in the crank so i just tap it to the size bolt that i used. in most cases its a 7/16" bolt,but you get the idea.       
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