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Showing results for tags 'drill press'.
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“The DeVere Zone” (echo echo echo for effect) Enter, if you dare… This is my special place, my calm space. Doggone it, it’s my downright Bob Ross happy space! i had a 36 x 24 shop, a real nice space. But, i put up a wall and reduced my wood shop side by a third. Now it’s easier to cool and heat. It actually increased some useable wall space. I’m much happier now, Bob would be so proud. Except for my scroll saw, drum sander, and drill press everything else in on wheels. Anyway, hope you enjoy perusing “The DeVere Zone” (echo echo echo, but this time with the reverb turned up to about 10 for maximum effect and premium coolness)
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I have a morse and taper shaft on my drill press that is constantly falling out. Especially when I need it to cut mortise. Is it misalignment in my mortise attachments that are causing the M&T to slip out? I do not not think so. But then why won't it stay in. I will google it but you gents are my favorites with multiple options. -
Just a quick little comment here. I love perusing the Facebook Classifieds, I never buy anything, but it's fun, I guess what I'm doing is yard sale hopping from my arm chair, anyway it occupies about a half hour of my day, I like to see old trucks for sale, antique furnishings, and during my perusing I have noticed that woodworking machinery seems to be tanking, the values. If there is a time to get into woodworking and anyone wants to out fit a shop with second hand, at least here on the left coast, the values are pretty danged low. I'm seeing quality Delta and Powermatic table saws for 5 or 600 bucks, and other machinery at a 1/2 or less of what they were bought for. This saw is going for 600 bucks, this is a good saw, just a couple years ago this saw would have been no less than 1200 bucks used in my area. Don't know what's driving this but I found it interesting.
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I have a Buffalo Forge wall mount drill press #66. It was my grandfathers. My uncle rescued it from the old workshop 30ish years ago and restored it. It then hung on my uncles garage wall until he died in 2015. So, I now have it. I moved and have finished my shop to the point I now have a place for it. Then, I dropped it..... The top adjustment wheel is in pieces and the back broke in half. Does anyone have information on where I might find parts to put it back into working order? ThankS TR
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Well, I've always wanted one as a wall mounted dedicated drill press and I now have a chance, they are asking 250 for it, if I go see it, just 10 miles from home, what should I look for with these older ones? Keeping in mind I am only interested in it being a wall mount drill press. Beside making sure it powers up, anything else to keep any eye out for?
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I had one aggravation when using my benchtop Wen drill press. The depth stop was a knurled nut that had to be tediously spun around a fine threaded post to set a stop. There are push button stops you can buy for some drill presses. Pricey, and usually for the larger shafts on floor standing drill presses. I couldn't find one for the M12-1.25mm post on my Wen. I've made push button releases for a few past projects, so decided I could make my own depth stop for my Wen. Photos below. A more complete How-To is now live on my blog: https://4dfurniture.blogspot.com/2023/01/making-push-button-depth-stop-for-my.html I consider this a prototype. Next is to see if I can make one from aluminum. 4D
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It was mentioned here about Norm being on you tube. I don't watch things on the computer, but I did call up his first show for nostalgia reasons. As he went from tool to tool to make a medicine chest, he went to his Craftsman TS, then to his Craftsman RAS, and then to his drill press ...which was actually a Shopsmith set up in drill press form. I've watched a lot of Norm, and don't recall ever seeing a Shopsmith in the shop. BTW, in the first episode, the NYW actually looked a little empty without all the stuff he collected in later years.
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I have been meaning to get this done for a while. I needed a way to have sacrificial inserts that are easy to replace. I used the Shaper Origin to make the table insert and the the insert within it. It was easy to make about a dozen extra inserts so now I can just pop one out and set in a new one when needed. Paul
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I'm looking for advice and suggestions about how and where to sell. Do I refurbish, all or partial? What about shipping away from my location? How to price? I have my father's woodshop equipment bought in 1948 (have original invoices). Includes table saw, scroll saw, band saw, shaper, wood lathe, grinder, drill press, and belt sander, located in Washington State.
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So, I was thinking (yes, that means you should run screaming into the night). When I'm drilling holes for my fretwork, I drill a lot of holes. If I'm using the drill press (preferred method) I can only support the piece I'm drilling with one hand. The other hand has to pull the drill bit down into the wood. I want to rig up a jig when a rod extends from the drill press handle to a foot pedal that will pull the spindle down and when released the drill press handle will raise back up, this would allow me to have both hands on the piece of wood for more control. Since I'm using 1/16 inch and smaller drill bits there is little danger of the work piece being pulled out of my grip. I have used a molding chopper and a double miter saw that used this technique (factory built for it) so the concept has been used in the past. What do you thnk? A picture of the double lidded basket showing all the holes to be drilled:
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Hi all, I'd like to build a drill press cabinet and have never done anything like this. I'm a wood turner so this is new. I use it to drill pen blanks, not know what else it can do (tho I'd like to find a good book or website that tells what it can do!) I have a floor length one and I'd like this to be on wheels. What do I need to consider, how tall should the drawers be, how tall do I make the cabinet, do I make it as part of the drill press table and fence, is there a standard size width like 15 inches width. What thickness are the walls, can I use 1/4 or 1/2 inch plywood with 3/4 on the bottom for the wheels, is there a plywood better for this than others. I've never used sketch-up to draw any plans. I have started to learn about this morning. As you see I don't know anything about this. I will try to attach pictures of the drill press. It is a 16 speed from harbor freight. The width of the table is 11 inches.
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Awhile back came across a sweet deal on a WEN 12 inch variable speed Drill Press. A nice upgrade to my 8 inch, but smaller than my full size 17 1/2 in JET. So I put it next to the small 8 inch for last couple months while I decided on how I liked, or did not like the height of it. I prefer the height of the JET as far as where the quill sits. With the WEN sitting on this bench the quill is staring me in the face. Kinda hard for a short guy to use. This is how it looks with taller cabinet. So I set about making a new shorter cabinet. Did a dry fit and all looked good. Finished the insides before assembly. Then moved on to the top. So now the face frame is all assembled and fitted nicely. Some hand plane work and then bit of sanding. Put is all together for a dry fit, came out nice. Decided now would be a good time to check for fitting where it belongs. Hit the mark right on for height. Next is to move old cabinet out of way and see how the new one fits. Spot on. Put the WEN on the table and now to see if my measurements are true for lining up the quill to the quill on the JET. Not exactly on, off by maybe 3/16's. I can work with that. Now here is the dilemma. This is how it looks with the WEN centered on the cabinet. Plenty of room, access to both DP's all around. \ But stick the little guy back in the mix and we are slam full. I raised the little guy up so the quills all matched height. View from other side. Do I NEED 3 drill presses?? Certainly is nice but need, nah the new guy is more than up to the task and it is Variable speed. I rarely part with equipment preferring to expand my capability rather than sell a piece of equipment off. For giggles I put the small DP on the graffiti cabinet next to it and that is not working for me. Hard to access the cabinet behind. No further space exist large enough to accommodate the small guy. Hate to part with equipment and the extra capability but at some point hey, maybe this ain't gonna work? Maybe @Cal needs a small 8 inch DP????? Any ideas or suggestions??
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Artie here are the pictures of the SS’s. The first it the sliding table. Second is the lathe and belt sander, third the band saw and sanding disc, fourth is horizontal boring and lathe chisel sharpening jig. Fifth is the drill press
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Working today on the drill press and the crank handle broke. The swivel just ended up in my hand. The other end cracked years ago and was temp holding with some epoxy. And of course the bushing is 12mm. So I probably can't find a generic replacement at the repair shop. Also a while ago the connection of the table broke (because the bolt was minimally long) and since it had an odd thread pattern, I just had to tap it out rather than spend $25 with them for a bolt with the right thread pitch and hope it was longer. Another tool from them is the jig saw that lost its setscrew to hold the blade. It's about 4" down a hole. They insisted the setscrew was 1/4" (another $25). Finally determined it was 6mm (must have gotten a deal on them at the factory and didn't let corporate know). But I had to buy a new allen wrench set to get a metric one that was long enough because the supplied one didn't fit a stock setscrew (49 cents). I did sell my band-disk sander before it gave me more problems. People seem to like their stuff but i've had nothing but problems, no more of their stuff for me.
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From the album: Patriot Woodworker Community Fundraiser 2020
Enter to Win! One recipient will receive: WoodRiver - Drill Press Table WWW.WOODCRAFT.COM WoodRiver® Drill Press Table features a large 15-1⁄2"-deep x 23-3⁄8"-wide... Value: 99.99 -
Someone gave me a box of what they called "junk". A lot of nuts and bolts and such but this little guy caught my eye. I had seen this used once at the Boat Repair place. When I asked what it was he told me important not a toy. Okay I got that a lot. On my JET 17 inch drill press they have the quill stop lock as two knurled nuts you tighten. Don't know what thread but it takes forever to run them up and down. Would be nice to have something easier. Sure they offer some but the ones I found were wrong size and $35. So this stop is 1/2 - 20. I have threaded rod that fits it. Tried the regular zinc and found the fit rather sloppy. When I tried a piece of galvanized it was tight. So I cut the rod to length then milled the end of the rod down to 3/8 and threaded it for a nut. This allowed me to attach it to my drill press using existing holes. Had to cut a nut in half so it wasn't so tall. As @steven newman would say, we have ways. That done I did a test fit and found I did not like the return hitting so hard so I used a nylon washer to absorb the shock. Both washers were a tad bigger in diameter. So I used some hot glue to keep them in place but allow for easy removal later. Don't want all that mess vibrating and making noise. After an hour of work I have a drill press quill stop that is easy to set to any depth without any modifications to the original set up. Cost, nothing except some time. Had everything I needed in stock in the shop. This was old quill stop mechanism. Pictures tell a better story sometimes. Here is end result.
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I have some oddities in my shop. I try to be as organized as I can and some of my organizational methods, ehem, are somewhat to be desired to say the least! I have for years stored the chuck key to my Rockwell Delta Drill Press in a location that I know where it always is, and it also serves a secondary purpose as well. Here is the my beloved Delta Rockwell Drill Press. And the place I keep the chuck key, the original chuck key that came with the drill press is here. Please tell me I am not the only one that has an oddity in the shop such as this. This gate keeper, errr I mean chuck key has served it's purpose there for a decade since I have had this particular drill press. The chuck key is stationed right out the side door of my garage and my drill press is right next to the side door of the garage, I literally take two steps out the side door and I have the chuck key to use for my drill press. I always know where it is, it has never rusted from rain, and it keeps the gate latch secured. This is the gate that separates our side yard from strangers off the street. I have fought this feeling of shame for years now, not having a legitimate location to keep my chuck key, yes, I could keep it at the drill press, you know I actually did that once, and I lost it! Just to find it a day later, and I promptly installed it back in the gate latch where it serves double duty to this day. So there, I have confessed, and I feel great! Please tell me I am not the only one!
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So my old drill press is having issues; high pitch bearing whine at top speed (which I use a lot for drilling scrollsaw fretwork patterns), 40+ years old off brand (bought used 40 years ago), chuck just failed, one tooth lower than the other two, can't center a bit. don't know if I can get the morse taper out now (had to use loctite, lowest strength, to get the chuck to stay in the machine) at the time, 30 years ago, I was using a drum sander in the press and any side pressure would make the chuck fall out. loctite fixed it and it has not been removed since. So fix or replace? Brand recommendations for a chuck would be nice. This is not a production machine just general usage and holes for fretwork. If I replace it I want a press that has the same type of table that I currently have, i.e. round table with a round mount/clamp. Tractor Supply has a low end model for $269. All the higher end models I've seen have the square/cantilevered tables, don't really want that style. Thoughts?- 14 replies
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Delta Floor Model Drill Press. I currently have it mounted on a 1 1/2" thick plywood base with wheels underneath which raises the whole thing about 4 1/2" above the floor. It's always felt a bit too high. My other recent post concerning adding an auxiliary table will make the work surface even higher. So I'm thinking that I should re-do the mobile base to get the work surface lower to the ground. Again, I've seen several designs and would appreciate your suggestions. Due to my 'shop' size I would like to keep the drill press mobile. I also thought about making a standing platform....hinge it to the front of the base to flip up when not in use or flip down when I need to do some drilling.
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Perusing Craigslist and found this wonderful example of a Shopsmith 10ER here in So Cal. And it's sister sitting beside it, both for $350.00. The ER in front was restored, if only I was ready to go down that road, I'd a snapped it up in a heart beat! Love the way they look.
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I have a manual drill press ACME that was used as a yard ornament for years and now stands in my wife’s flower garden. I have had it there for about 20 years. It is rusted but on close inspection and it is not too bad. Every now and then someone will stop and ask if I want to sell it. It is frozen down where you can’t turn the manual wheel. I don’t want to force it and break it. It is a favorite but never gets used. My wife refuses to turn the handle. Preston
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Shopsmith Mark V 520 50th Anniversary Edition
John Morris posted a gallery image in Patriot Woodworker's Shops
From the album: John's Shop
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My oldest daughter and I make a craft item that we sell. I have made several different sleds to cut the material but have needed a way to locate a pilot hole for a screw eye exactly in the center with out measuring. The craft item varies greatly in size depending upon what material I am cutting. My first effort worked, somewhat, but with sales increasing I needed something better. This was made from a wooden hand clamp from Harbor Freight and scraps from the shop. Part of the scraps was a section of maple bowling alley. The first picture is the finished jig. The second picture is of the core of the unit. The threaded rod from the hand clamp is held in place so when it is turned the jaws would open. Did you know that you cannot find a left-hand acme nut? To hold the rod in place I made thick washers from some UHMW and held them and the rod in place with a nail acting as a roll pin. The most important part of this was making sure the wood and washers’ thickness was so, when the jaws were close, they both were snug against the wood. The third picture is how I had to modify the clamp jaw. I had to drill a relief, so the washes were not in the way of the jaw closing. By clamping the jaws to the center block I was able to drill holes for guide rods. This was necessary to keep the jaws parallel since I was only using one of the threaded rods to operate the unit. The fourth picture shows how I had to cut the center block and the jaws for an aluminum track. The fifth picture shows the completed unit at my drill press. Sorry the picture is up-side down, but I tried to correct it, but nothing worked. The sixth picture is another view of the jig where you see a black knob to the left. Once the jig is centered and clamped to the drill press table, I need to move the jig to place the bit over the place I want the hole and then tighten it down. I made a centering block to positioning the jig. I located the center of the block and drilled the hole. I then turned the block 180 degrees to test it. I was off by 1/132” Not bad. That is more than enough for the craft item.
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Boy these Cornhole games sure are popular. Our neighbor's daughter is getting married this May and they asked me if I could build a couple Cornhole boards for them, they are going to have games at the wedding reception. I only first heard of this game because of @John Moody, John is the resident Cornhole builder in our community. So I know what little I do know by John's work, and I just scanned the internet really quick to get the regulation sizes of everything and I set to building their boards from wood I had left over from other projects. I have not had a full day in the shop in two years, really, no kidding, life has been quite a challenge and I was so happy to just get this day to make some dust on such a basic project, I loved it. I had my folk music going in the shop, a little bit of Johnny Cash, some Del McCoury and Bill Monroe, and tapered the day off with Hank and Waylon, man what a joyous day. It was just one of those days that lined up perfectly to do some "me" time and the family was completely ok with it. Also, I got to really get into my Shopsmith! And what a blast I had with it. So, I know they are just Cornhole boards, but what's more important, is that I had a day of fun, so if you want to see some boards, read on! I set up my outfeed table configuration to handle some mid size panels for the Cornhole boards. Ripped a couple pre-prefinished 3/4" panels I had left over from a prior project, I am getting used to my Shopsmith today. I then set up my outfeed table to handle ripping some narrow boards, the table needs to be set at the center of the table saw or in line with the blade, it was a quick operation, part of using these Shopsmith's is knowing what they are capable of, and how to maximize their ability, I am not there yet, I am only discovering the surface of what these machines are capable of. I pushed the oak boards through with minimal effort. Then I joined each board just to clean up the edges and to have a nice mating edge to the underside of the surface board. I need to align my Shopsmith fence as you can see a tad burning on the oak edge. I have not adjusted my Shopsmith yet since I purchased it, the gent I bought it from had it sitting in his garage for 15 years with no use, so no doubt I need to tune up the alignment. I have however oiled the sheeves and other areas and I tensioned the drive belt to specs before I used it. I used good ol pocket holes to mount the sides of the boards up to the surface board. I drilled out all my pocket holes first. Then I set to screwing the boards to the underside of the Cornhole deck. I swear Shopsmith and Rigid have a secret relationship, because my Rigid Shopvac hose is the perfect size for the table saw dust port, and the jointer dust port. I cut a small radius on the end of the back cornhole board legs, so they'll fold up and down easily. This bandsaw is really nice, I can't believe how something small and seemingly very simple in design, is so accurate and easy to use. I aint kidding folks, I like it better than my 15" Grizz I had. A very strong feature of the Shopsmith is the Drill Press operation, it's sweet, I like it, I am happy. Quiet, accurate, with an adjustable table for in and out, and up and down and of course since the power head operates the Drill Press, it's variable speed. Drilling the holes out for the carriage bolts. The back folding legs are mounted, you flip them up and lock them down by tightening the wingnuts, I used a 5/16" carriage bolt, washer and wingnut. Legs up. I still have to cut out the 6" diameter Cornholes, but mission basically accomplished. Our neighbors should like them, she is going to paint a mural on the deck of the Cornhole board, I think the LA Dodgers symbol. Any my baby put to sleep, she did well today, I was please with the operations, and I became more efficient at the changeovers, I am getting good at operating my Shopsmith, and it's turned out to be a great machine for my purpose, and, mama gets to park her car in the garage now! I hope John Moody approves of the way I made these boards, and if anyone has any tips on the building Cornhole boards I am all ears, I may do some for my family as well, not sure yet, depends if the kids want them or not. If you want to build your own boards, here is the site that John Moody directed me too, they have all the information and specs for them there. https://www.playcornhole.org/ Thanks for sharing a part of my day with me folks.
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Drill Press Mounted Outside of Maloof Shop
John Morris posted a gallery image in General Woodworking
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From the album: Sam Maloof Site Visit 2019
Old hand drill press mounted outside the shop of Maloof
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