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Found 10 results

  1. A few weeks ago mama decided she wanted a cabinet to store her arts and crafts supplies that are taking up floor space in our upstairs hallway. She went shopping online and found a cabinet she liked for 230 bucks, and it was the typical particle board white surface type of stuff. So I told her I'd be happy to build it and the materials would be less as well. So she and I went to our lumber store and picked up some 4/4 poplar, poplar because she wants the exterior painted white, and I want the interior natural finished. We will be using General Finishes Milk Paint for the exterior. Also, I am going to build saw tooth shelf supports as well. This is our hardwood lumber dealer "Reel Lumber", about 30 miles from home, it's full of all kinds of stuff, from pine to oak to exotics and everything in between. Our Poplar was running about 2.70 a board foot. I spent about 150 bucks, and with the Milk Paint, we are going to come under budget from her online cabinet she wanted, and we are going to have a piece of furniture to pass down to our kids, and their kids. Got the boards home and had to size and join them. Note: if you look behind my Makita CMS, you'll see a cross with a flame in a heart plaque, when I was going through some serious health issues a year ago, my friend Jess @Smallpatch, sent me this very special and inspiring gift, it lifted my spirits enormously, and when I felt I needed a little nudge from the Lord while working in the shop during that rough time, all I had to do was look at my plaque, and I felt it. To this day I cherish it, and I feel the Spirit in it. Just a board on the bench, laying out dado's. Glued up. I built the face frame with a Kreg pocket screw jig, and then glued the frame to the case, and bored holes in the face frame for 1/4" dowels, 1 1/2" long and glued and driven in to the case, then a flush cut hand saw and cut the dowels flush and block planed them smooth. Since the case is going to be painted, I thought adding the extra strength of the dowels would be good since you won't see them below the paint. I also mixed up some two part epoxy and floated it over each dowel, let dry then sanded smooth, just so there weren't any issues with the end grain of the dowels sucking up the paint. Joining boards for the raised panels. Getting the rails and stiles ready for the raised panel doors, I was playing with my Stanley 45 yesterday, and after a few tweaks here and there, she purred and plowed, making some wonderful clean 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep grooves to accept the raised panel. The grooves turned out very nice. After running the grooves in, I used a block plane to take a whisper shaving off the top to clean up the surface. Within an hour I had two rails and one stile done, and I was starting on the second stile when mama called me in for dinner last night. Here is where the case is as of today. The backed boards are beveled and nailed off on the back of the cabinet. Today I am gluing up the door panels. I'll keep the images coming, and thanks for looking! My very special cup, that a friend gave me, and also a cup for mama too!
  2. I have been making Christmas ornaments for a dozen or more years as a give away item. This year i made icicles and they were also good for a lot of skew practice. They will definitely get to a family and a few friends but because of Covid most will not be given out until hopefully next year. Made 60 of these and used 5/8" birch dowel rod for the blanks. Here is my tree with all those that I made over the years.
  3. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2020/04/28/awesome-joinery-for-diy-projects
  4. When I was turning all those lighthouse ornaments I was using pieces of dowel rods. When I chucked them up sometimes they didn't run true. I remembered a trick and used it to get the blank the straightest and therefore using less material. Here is a clip from a video I ran across that shows how it is done.
  5. I made a couple of these for my family and got another request for a couple more. I made them out of Cedar fencing boards and painted with some fence stain/preservative. I made each finger and then joined with glue. After the glue set, I made a cut thru the knuckle and put in a spline. I also drilled all the way thru the fingers and glued in a small dowel to hold the fingers together. The childrens sunglasses came from the Dollar store
  6. Well it that time again coming up on the Dec. Woodworkers club meeting I always have made some little thing for the members, we usually have 15-20 members show up. This year I made a doweling jig. Here are the picture of the build. Herb
  7. this is not the same box but is the way I start building one. I have to print out 10 exact patterns. The tenth one is just solid with no holes for drawers. All the pieces I cut out for the drawers are later glued together except for the front of the drawer and the back of the drawer. I use dowels to line up everything . If I don't use the dowels when clamping two pieces together it could slip just a hair one way or the other and cause lots of extra sanding or cause for the trash can. Each set of holes has to be in a different place than the next side of the pieces. And you can't drill the next side until the first side is marked and drilled and glued. Drawers are somewhere around 5 1/2 to 6" deep. The body being one solidly glued up mass with no cuts joining each drawer keeps it all from warping from season changes.. I use brasing or stainless steel rods for drawer pulls before I start spraying the clear lacquer so they will stay looking good and not tarnish. I also put a wider drawer front on to cover up the possible gaps from sanding and creating a back looking mess. And here also the dowels help to line up the drawer fronts. So far, all the sawing was with the scroll saw so the reason I call my boxes scroll saw jewelry boxes. Now before I glue the front of the drawer on and the back of the drawer on I first mark where the cavity of the drawer will be and cut that area out with a band saw. Then using the dowel holes I first pt in the pieces I can now glue the on and they will have bee lined up before the cavities of the drawers were sawn in... Its not a good idea to be drinking beer when all this is taking place for all these holes I drill has to have a stop set on the drill press or else... There is way more preparation in one of these boxes and a few more weeks involved.. I cut the last 4 boxes I made out outside my motor home while sitting in an rv park in Colo.. I had all the wood glued together for each piece I needed and would only glue on one pattern one at a time as I started to scroll saw each piece out... Gluing a pattern on two or three days before the sawing takes place the pattern will shrink and stretch and some might ruin to not be usable. I always took two or three extra patterns and pieces of prepared wood just in case... I have also found two different printers will make different size patterns even though I use the same pattern in two different printers..Not good when I am having to make multiple patterns and needing some more away from the printer I first used. When cutting out this many of the same thing and needing them as close to each other as I can get them, I find I have to start my scroll saw cutting from the same place and go in the same direction on all the pieces... Going two different directions on two different pieces a person has a tendency to lean or push the wood just enough to make differences and I get get bad line up problems and then add that many more pieces it gets too wild....Yes it ruined my very first wide box because of this... Using the dowel system where at least 3 dowels and most of the time 4 dowels on each side of all the pieces I can get things more manageable when its time to sand it all smooth on the inside and the outside and all the drawers.. All these have to stay in line as to how they were sawn so lots of marking goes on and off. Don't even know if this is understandable or not?? And I can sure see the difference in my sawing from starting in the morning or just before I quit at night. Those lines can sure get wavy. Jess
  8. I recently made a thread cabinet for a sewing friend of mine. The spools were to be placed over dowels to keep the thread spools in order. I needed 168 four inch dowels. Decided I need 20 four foot dowels to come up with the number needed. Couldn't see myself making 168 cuts so I came up with a plan to wrap them all together with some plastic stretch wrap and give that a whirl. Marked off the a dowel every four inches and wrapped the dowels together in between the marks stretching the plastic nice and tight and put them through the table saw. Worked nicely. Got them all cut quickly and smoothly.
  9. And I got a day more to go. The things I do.Well point is I bloody well didn't want to buy 2" diameter dowels but I needed 'em, For most of the day it was not going as well as I'd hoped. I was getting a horrible surface finish - - all choppy. I was getting inconsistency of about 0.020" from end to end but I dialed that in to about 0.010" error I'm using a router on a lathe. On my lathe I built a very stout rig from 1.125" maple that supports a wide board about the same thickness above the drive and and tail stock center much like the guy has in this video only doing it in the lathe better because it's on bearings and I can adjust the height and location of the board. But my router cutter is not giving me a nice finish it's all choppy. I built two different slow speed rigs one gave me about 60 RPM and the other 20 and neither improved the result. They let me product a finer finish but there were other problems. The slow speed produced a very coarse threaded-like surface unless I moved the router at the speed of a clock's hour hand. I had been in the middle to lower range of lathe speeds before so I decided to crank it to ELEVEN and see what transpired.. Success~!! A pretty good surface that a little 80 grit paper was able to fettle up nice as a baby's bum. I got to make three of these dowels They are going to be split down the middle and put in the planer on a jig just for them then glued back together to produce a shape ( seen from the end) like this: That is the inside part of a tripod leg. My lathe is a little Walker Turner Driver line. The motor that came with was the original. I couldn't stand it because it was weak, so I replaced that with a 1HP 1750 Baldor. Now nothing stops it. It's a sweet little lathe, but I yen for bigger & badder.
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